New Selle Anatomica X2 saddle owner

[Andrew Turner]

Hey there group, it seems the Selle Anatomica is a popular saddle within the Rivendell community and I've just acquired my first one: the X2 model. I was curious if anyone recommends some out-of-the-box modifications or if there were some factory settings that should be addressed. (i.e. adding grease to the ends of the rails, threadlock, etc.) 

One particular quality I was curious about is the nose of the saddle. I can't tell if it's by design but mine seems to sorta float, allowing me to rock it side to side a little. It's not something I notice while riding so I've just turned a blind eye. 

Cheers, 

Andrew

[aeroperf]

I rode a Titanico X for three years.
I just checked the nose of the saddle - I can detect no “float”, though it does wiggle (rotate) around the tension bolt just a little.  1/16” either way.  I probably need to check the tension again.
One “modification” I’ve found is that Brooks Proofide is a much better leather conditioner for my saddle than Selle Anatomica’s Saddle Sauce.

[Andrew Turner]

Good to know. And yes, that's a better way of putting it and it seems like mine is moving about the same amount. It's more of a feel than actually seeing it rotate. 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this topic, visit https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/2iENLy_bJMs/unsubscribe.
To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/695751b3-340e-4d02-8091-cc3d173aa5ddn%40googlegroups.com.

[Joe Bernard]

It's definitely different if you're used to Brooks saddles. Selle Anatomicas mold and bend and stretch all over the dang place..not my thing but lots of people love them. 

Joe Bernard

[Andrew Turner]

I noticed that, especially when I lean back to ride no-hands; It's like I'm falling into a hammock. Still experimenting with padded shorts vs no pads...can't tell if the cutout is a plus or negative at this point, too early to tell. I will say though, I'm not getting any sort of soft tissue numbness due to the low handlebar / high saddle position. The B17 definitely prefers the handlebars level on my bikes. I've also got a Brooks Professional to try as well. Surely between the 3 there's a winner.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9c664a9a-0b5e-4fba-ba67-d513ea246d2fn%40googlegroups.com.

[Eric White]

I'm also experimenting with my first SA saddle and it definitely wants its nose a little higher than I run my B17s. I was practically sliding off when I first installed it in my usual Brooks orientation. 

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAGnPyMHEBFq17aDzJ%3D7Bo-rsYoxz%3DCm_sueckCj04%3DRzMB%2BVvw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter Adler]

That's the entire point of Selle An-Atomicas (and, to a lesser degree, of the cousin Rivet saddles, which have relatively shorter cutouts; both are descendants of the original superlong Selle An-Atomica Titanicos). The long cutout changes the single plane of a traditional suspended leather saddle like a Brooks/Ideale (even one with a small cutout, like a Brooks Imperial) into two parallel planes connected at the ends. My term for this is "ass hammocks".

I've been riding SA-As of various generations as my primary saddles for almost fifteen years:

1) 2006-2010 Selle An-Atomica Titanico - the original superlong design

Company base: Benicia CA (SF Bay Area) Manufacturing: Wisconsin

These were intended for ectomorphic ultra-distance guys under 160 pounds, which is pretty much what founder Tom Milton was; Paris-Brest-Paris, Race Across America, double centuries, brevets etc. The rails were of normal carbon steel, and very long to permit lots of setback; on the saddles of this design I still have, the total saddle length is 310mm. This meant that the rails had a nasty tendency to bend. The leather was lighter weight than a B17; with the ductility of the long cutout, this meant that the leather stretched out comparatively quickly, especially if you were near or above the threshold of the recommended rider weight. I was always at or above that weight (180 ponds, if my memory is correct); I stretched the leather out after a couple of years, by which time I'd already bent the rails.

The leather was available in two finishes: Regular leather and "Watershed", a treated leather that's actually fairly good at repelling water from the finished surface; you still have to treat the rough surface or baggie-ize Watershed saddles in the rain, though. It also came in about 15 different colors - reds, greens, oranges, white, burgundy, grey, purple - plus the normal range of black/brown/tan.

NOTE: Don't let the name fool you - there is no titanium in an SA-A Titanico, or (to the best of my knowledge) in any Selle An-Atomica.

After Milton died in 2010 (massive heart attack on the side of Mount Hamilton near San Jose CA, a little over halfway through the Devil Mountain Double Century; CPR  on the scene, first from fellow riders and then from Santa Clara County sheriff's deputies, didn't save him. Grant wrote a rather thoughtful epitaph on The Riv site afterwards, which appears to have disappeared in one of the more recent site updates - it's at the Internet Archive), the company was in chaos for about a year or two. The company was inherited by Tom's sister Carol Hosmer, who moved both management and manufacturing to her home town of San Diego; her sons are involved in operations, although they're no longer the people who answer customer support calls. This was about the time when Rivet Saddles was established, under the direction of Tom's life partner Deb; I've never been clear on whether the division was cordial or not.

The relocation led to:

2) 2011-2012 Selle An-Atomica v.2.0

Company base: San Diego CA Manufacturing: Wisconsin, transitioning to San Diego

The saddles started getting more ruggedized. The leather got thicker, and the option of an underlayer because available with the release of new models for heavier riders. The original leather pattern was advertised for riders under 160 pounds, with the leather+underlayer for riders 160-190 pounds. The rails changed from carbon steel to chromoly for all models.

The bending rails and stretching leather didn't stop, because most riders aren't built like Tom Milton. So:

3) 2013-2014 Selle An-Atomica v.2.5

Company base: San Diego CA Manufacturing: San Diego

More ruggedizing. Rails went from unspecified chromoly to 4130 chromoly. The leather got thicker, and the color range got narrower; most of the flashy colors disappeared during this period. The old "normal" finish went away, to be replaced by "Tru-Leather": A naturally tanned leather that requires waterproofing. This was an alternate finish on black saddle, but was the only available option for the honey-colored saddles I preferred back then. I ended up buying a Tru-Leather honey saddle, grumbling about it, water treating it, and mounting on a bike that as zero likelihood of being ridden in the rain (1973 Lambert Professional Grand Prix 24K).

During this period, the introduction of the X designation for saddles for heavier riders came in, along with NSX for saddles for lightweights.

4) 2015-2017 Selle An-Atomica v.3.0

Tru-Leather was discontinued; all SA-A leather saddles are Watershed going forward. The flashy colors disappear; the remaining color options are black, brown, honey, and burgundy.

5) 2018-2020 Selle An-Atomica v.4.0

Leather thicknesses now available in three levels: T (2 layers, 120 pounds max), X (2 thicker layers, 120-190 pounds max), H (3 layers, 190-250 pounds). Modularity is introduced; in addition to the T1/X1/H1 models (tops riveted to steel cantles with gunmetal or copper rivets), there is a modular T2/X2/H2 variant, where the leather top is attached to the cantle and nose piece+stainless tubular rails with silver Chicago screws. Both replacement frames and replacement tops are available for end-user purchase.

As part of the modularity initiative and as another attempt to eliminate the ongoing rail bend issues, all saddles are shortened to 290mm - still long compared to traditional suspended leather saddles (I just measured a 1970s Ideale 80 at 260mm), but less obviously weird-long. The shorter rails bend less, and the shorter leather stretches less (the slots start 50mm back from the nose and end 45mm from the tail, but the slot is shorter because the saddle is shorter, so the stretched leather is thicker relative to the length). FWIW, I have yet to have 215 or later rails bend, and I have yet to stretch a 2018 or later leather topto the point of unrideability. I do miss the range of positions available, though.

From the very early days, they offered a nifty perk: If you told them you were using the saddle for commuting, they included a pair of leather leg straps in to match your saddle.. They made handlebar tape in Watershed leather to match all the handlebar colors, too; both the leg straps and the handlebar tape disappeared during this time window.

6) 2021--present Selle An-Atomica v.4.5

The R2 modular saddle is introduced, with a vulcanized rubber to instead of leather. A carbon rail option is added for Series 2 saddle frames.

No-slot saddles have been available throughout the manufacturing run; in the current nomenclature, they're called NSX (under 190 pounds)/NSH (190-250 pounds). Another thing that's always been available is replacement parts/service: Replacement leather tops, replacement rails/frames, replacement adjusting screws, replacement Chicago screws etc. I may check with SA-A to see if they'll still do leather replacements on older generations of frames; it might be handy to have my long 3.0 frame back in rideable condition

I own several of these. My 1.0 Titanico got stolen, after I'd put it on my pack mule to replace the 2.5 that got stolen (proof that there are places where the use of an ordinary Allen wrench seatpost clamp bolt makes stealing your expensive leather saddle and fancy seatpost a crime of opportunity). At the time, I had two clapped-out 1.0 saddles I bought at a Riv parking lot sale (one of which Grant did frightening things to with handlebar tape and chunks of cellfoam, documented in an old Reader); I rode one of those for a bit, until the next SA-A sale came up and I could afford a replacement. Currently, I have one 2.5 saddle and four 4.0 saddles in service (X1/X2/H2), plus a 4.0 H2, a replacement H2 top, and an R2 in reserve.

There are some general tips that apply to all SA-As:

The alternating up-down of the saddle sides as you ride is exactly how it's supposed to work, but the up-down rotates the attached nose piece, which causes the adjustment screw to loosen. It's not like a Brooks; you'll need to periodically tighten it up. Until you've done it a few times, the method is a little counter-intuitive, just because it's different from most leather saddles; you turn the Allen screw counterclockwise (lefty-tighty) through the nose pice, to pull the leather tighter.

In past eras, the twisting of the nose piece against the adjustment screw often caused squeaking. I haven't heard this on my post-2015 saddles; if you do, you can get little plastic washers (they call them gaskets) from SA-A. If you call them up and whine, they'll probably just toss a couple in an envelope and send them to you.

There is a price for the flexibility of the SA-As, which pretty much eliminates the break-in period you get with most good leather saddles: The tops stretch out faster, to the point where the leather sags down under rider weight until you can feel the top of your seatpost(!). Hence, the established replacement system, done either by SA-A for Series 1 saddles or by you for Series 2. Both are about $100; I typically get 3-5 years of daily riding out of a saddle before I give up on it.

With the Series 2 saddles, the Chicago screws will work themselves loose. IMHO, I don't think SA-A uses enough blue Loctite to hold them in place. Having lost a few screws without realizing it, I have taken to ordering Chicago screws in tens, and then Loctiting the hell out of them. And check those screws periodically.

Peter "I lost screws and stretched leather, so you don't have to" Adler

Berkeley, CA/USA

[Fullylugged]

Thanks for the history lesson and observations.  I have 2 titanticos in service and they are my favorites.  I gave up padded shorts from the get go and have never looked back. I also have an X-2 and it is more hammocky than the titantico but still very comfy the nose on it is higher. Finally I have the H-2, bought on sale. I am well under the threshold weight and I will have to break this in, so it's on the shelf for later. My 4th upright bike sports a Brooks B15N (There's one for saddle history buffs) that is so well broken in, I cannot not continue to ride it.

Tips:  Obenaufs instead of Saddle Sauce or Proofide.

           Don't over tighten. A little sling is good.

           Saddle cover in the rain.

Taiwinds,

Old Slow Bruce