Tool Bags, Kits, and Wraps: Recommendations?

[Matthew Williams]

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to reduce weight and I’m reconsidering what tools and materials I should be carrying for long-distance (>20 miles) rides. For example, carrying both a Swiss Army knife and a Leatherman tool is probably unnecessary.

At the same time, I get a little panicky if I don’t bring something, because I’ve had so many incidents in which the one item I need is the one item I didn’t bring. Below is a photo of my current kit, and a list of what I'm carrying:

Patch kit
Spare tube
Tire levers
Mini pump
Gorilla Tape
Presta-to-Shraeder adapter (for gas station air)
Mini bungee cords (to hold chains or cables while replacing a wheel)
Chain tool
Spare links
Leatherman
Swiss Army knife
Channellocks
Chain pliers
Needle-nose pliers
Hex wrench set
Zip ties
Cyanoacrylate glue

What do you carry in your toolkits, for long-distance rides? What am I missing, or overcarrying? If I have a patch kit, is a spare tube necessary? Please share photos of your tool kits, bags, and wraps!

As always, your wisdom, advice, and experience are welcomed and appreciated.

[Will Boericke]

I carry less than half of that.  I have a chain tool on my multi tool, it works fine.   That plus tire lever, tube, pump, spare link.  Tubeless accessories, that's about it.

Will near Boston

[Oliver Moss]

Bringing a TPU tube as a spare can save you space and weight. Also, you can easily remove a quick link with the channellock so that and a quick link plier both is extra. In a pinch there are tricks to remove a quick link with neither if you wanted to leave all that at home.

I agree that swiss army knife and leatherman both is quite an overlap, but I would also say needle nose and leatherman are as well.

Good news is you could easily save a lot of weight pretty quickly.

~Oliver

[Jim in Mpls]

I think both patch kit and tube are prudent, because if it's pouring rain, you aren't going to want to patch. Slap a tube in and go!

A good multi tool could replace the chain tool, pliers, leatherman and needle nose.

Jim

[Jason Fuller]

Interesting topic!  Here is my kit, I just weighed it and it's 850g all in. It's a Mission Workshop tool roll. I take this on bigger rides and also on trips with an extra tube and a separate camp kit that includes additional 'survival' items. 

- Park chain tool (it weighs little enough to warrant packing vs an all-in-one with crappy chain tool) 
- Multi tool with allen, torx, and screwdriver bits 
- Bandaids (prob should pack a more comprehensive first aid kit) and a couple Benadryl in there in case of allergic reaction to something 
- Some cash which can also double as a tire boot 

- Forager 8/10mm wrench 

- Paul brake adjuster wrench 
- Voile nano strap 
- Wolf tooth chain pliers with 2x quick links inside 

- Doggie bags for you know 
- Some TP to go with above 
- Patch kit and tube 
- Pump
- Zip ties 

- Snack in case of low blood sugar 
- Nitrile gloves are good for both keeping hands clean but also for cold weather roadside repairs 

In addition to this roll, I'll have a lighter weight lock (Bordo Lite) and sunscreen in my bag among other bits and bobs.

Banana is for scale, I don't keep it in the kit. Maybe I should put some Nuun in the kit, though! 

[Patrick Moore]

On Mon, May 26, 2025 at 7:25 PM Oliver Moss <oliverda...@gmail.com> wrote:

… In a pinch there are tricks to remove a quick link with neither if you wanted to leave all that at home.

Will you share these, or point us to a source? Up to 9 speed I had no problem just using my fingers to remove masterlinks, at least SRAM ones, but with 10 speed chains the links became much tighter and I bought my first masterlink pliers.

******************

Matthew: for what sort of riding do you carry along this kit? Multiday tours? 2-3 hour rambles? Quick trips to the store?

Yes, the multiple pliers seem overkill as do the duplicate multipurpose tools, and while the valve adapter is negligible a reliable portable pump means no need for gas station pumps. 

And, a whole set of hex wrenches? On my most modern bike I can’t think of any hex head bolts and a very compact multitool includes all the allens I need as well as a disc rotor torque bit. For my older bikes with hex head brake pads the Park MT-1 has all I need in a single “Key” type tool — no moving parts!

Do you need more than just one bungee? Or just get your fingers a bit dirty? I carry a multipurpose rag for greasy fingers and sealant messes.

Zip ties and Gorilla tape and superglue …? What for? Again, negligible but more little chingaderas to worry about.

I do carry a valve core tool for sealant plus small bottles of extra sealant, but this is in a landscape overrun with goatheads. Otherwise, a couple of spare tubes suffices, at least for any ride I’ve done.

I also carry a musette for occasional shop stops made from thin cloth that wads up to 2.5” X 1.5” X 1.5”; Rene Herse Ostrich musettes are thin nylon, sturdy, and reasonably priced, tho’ Velo Retro musettes are more interesting to look at. (Fun fact: Either will carry 3 25 oz Foster’s cans in a pinch. No, not to drink all at once.)

If it weren’t for 2 spare tubes (per bike with tubes) and a small (4 oz since OS does not come in a 2 oz size) bottle of Orange Seal on all bikes, tubed and tubeless, my kit would not tightly stretch a jersey pocket.

[Patrick Moore]

If you want the smallest multitool with the most tools, the more expensive of Wolftooth’s multitools has just about everything you need for a bike assembled with allen-head bolts. This model includes spoke and valve core wrench, chain link pliers, all possible allen bits, the rotor torx bit, even an “awl” for poking through sealant-clogged valve stems. It’s only 4” long and about 1/4” thick. It is a bit fiddly, though and the magnet catch on the pivoting cover is rather weak — I use a section of 1” tube to ensure it doesn’t spill the tiny bits into the depths of my frame bag.

https://www.jensonusa.com/wolf-tooth-8-bit-pliers-1-5?pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=&pt_keyword=&msclkid=9f49f82189701dab2cdf9014422387cb&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=CP%20%7C%20MF%20%7C%20BNG%20%7C%20SHOP%20%7C%20NBR%20%7C%20All%20Products&utm_term=4585444531556839&utm_content=All%20Products

I found my at about $40 iirc on eBay.

The tools for my Rivendell fixed gear all fit into this key or coin purse, tho’ I also carry 2 26 X 1” tubes and a 4 oz bottle of OS, the rag and musette, and a very cheap, very thin, disposable plastic cover for the saddle. 

[Brian Turner]

The Wolf Tooth 8-bit multi-tool that Jason shows in his kit photo is a really handy tool. The master link pliers work perfectly, and you can keep an extra masterlink inside the tool itself. My only critique of the tool is that it can be a bit fiddly to get the individual bits out (they are held in with magnets), and I've had to order extra sets of bits from Wolf Tooth due to me losing them out in the field.

I was also recently gifted the Forager Cycles Link Wrench that Jason also has. Mine has the 8,9, and 10 mm on it, plus the dyneema cord for removing / reattaching a master link. I have yet to use it, though.

This mini pliers-wrench (5") from Knipex has become an essential part of my kit. It can fit a wide variety of applications, and is small enough and light enough to fit into a tool roll.

Brian

Lexington KY

[matt miller]

I love this stuff to check out new to me tools. I also have some Knipex gear that is wonderful. I use the XS Cobra strapped to my multitool. https://www.knipex-tools.com/products/pipe-wrenches-and-water-pump-pliers/knipex-cobra-water-pump-pliers/cobra-water-pump-pliers-1000v-insulated/8700100

[Bill Lindsay]

OP says they are trying to reduce weight and shows a VERY generously stocked tool kit.  They confess a scouts "be prepared" sort of mindset, but asks what we carry.  

Let me start out with a few questions:

Why do you want to reduce weight?  In other words, what is the real problem you are trying to solve?

What does the stuff in the photo weigh?

What is the "target weight" of the stuff in the photo?  

I take it as a given that the exchange rate for pounds<-->MPH is 12 pounds per mile per hour.  So, if you want to go 2MPH faster, drop 24 pounds.  If you want to go 0.04MPH faster, drop a half-pound.  I confess to being particularly "aware" of this exchange rate, because I endeavored to getting back to "racing weight" this year, and have succeeded.  I've dropped 24 pounds, and so my gram-counting on my bikes has reduced in relative importance on my prioritized list of marginal gains.  

The obvious thing to do is decide which use-cases are sufficiently rare that you don't need that tool.  One of the things I'm having a little bit of a hard time visualizing is what is the use case for chain pliers on the road?  

If the master link/quick link/c-link fails, and the chain falls off the bike, you need to find the chain, install a new master link/quick link/c-link and set that with the drivetrain itself.  No pliers needed

If the chain fails away from the master link, you'll drop the failed link with the chain tool, and reattach it either via the chain tool -OR- install a second master link as above.  No pliers needed

The use case for pliers is that you want to remove a chain that is totally intact and do something to it, like clean it or wax it or something.  I can't envision doing that on the trail side.  So, why bring the pliers?  

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

[Steve]

I'll second and add to Jim's suggestion that in the event of a flat just pop the new tube into place and be on your way - save patching the punctured tube for after the ride. (Of course, a second puncture would force you to patch, but that is a rare event - though I have experienced it).  

Matthew, your needle nose pliers look like they may serve as a quick  link tool should you actually need one  - and they offer the bonus of the integrated cutting feature for trimming the zip ties or frayed cable ends or whatever.  

Speaking of quick links, I recently learned the value of carrying a spare after coasting/pushing a bike out of  the woods for a good 3 miles after loosing one. Of course, it was a self inflicted failure - I had just removed a couple links from the chain after fitting  a new 1x  chainring and in my overly eager haste to jump on the bike I neglected to visually inspect that both pins on the quick link were fully engaged. I won't repeat the words I uttered when I discovered the chain lying on the trail behind me.   As always, the most effective teacher is failure.

Steve in AVL

[A. Walton]

Matthew, I would be curious to know what you've used (or plan to use) the channel-lock pliers for out on the road. They look to me like the heaviest bit'o'metal in the bunch, but I am also newly concerned that I've been riding around with mere tweezers (for wire & glass in tires), while everyone else is out there with channel-locks, ready to fix pipes and so on.

Alex in Chicago

[Toshi Takeuchi]

I don't have any of those big tools like needle nose etc. As Bill says, you can put your chain back together without them with an extra chain link in the bag.

I always have a little mini leatherman for the pliers there. The pliers are essential for me to take out the little metal wires that cause me to flat. Others said they carry a pair of tweezers. I've also used the leatherman for the knife to cut a boot to size, so it has served multiple purposes.

I don't like pumps without a hose. The hose allows you to pump without torquing the valve with every pump. I use the Topeak mini-morph and I've seen Lezyne bike pumps with that feature, but I've heard complaints about unscrewing valve cores with those Lezyne pumps.

I have mini-wrenches that will tighten various bolts and they have spoke wrenches on the side. I stole them from my Topeak Survival gear box. Most of the tools in there are serviceable--in my 20 year old version (I've used the chain tool in the field). However, for all day+ rides, I upgrade to the smallest Park chain tool and Park spoke wrench. I like having separate hex keys because you have more clearance and can tighten with both ends of the hex key. I also carry an extra mini tool with hex keys/screwdrivers and have it easily accessible for quick adjustments (without having to go into my whole tool kit).

Good luck!

Toshi

[John Bokman]

Toshi, can you comment on ease of pumping with the Mini Morph? I like the Road Morph, which is a little bigger, but it would be nice to use the slightly shorter pump on occasion where I must carry the pump in a bag. 

John

Oregon

[Toshi Takeuchi]

Hi John, the minimorph is exactly the same as the road morph in terms of ease of use. Of course it's about half the size, so you will have to pump twice as many times, but it has a foot peg, so I have no problem pumping up my 650b x 42 mm tires, as well as high pressure road tires for friends.

Toshi

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[Garth]

All that is really essential for me is a tube, pump, patch kit and a Quick-stick to remove/install tires. Patch kit glue tubes generally suck though, once opened they dry up quickly unless used up quickly. After getting two flats in one ride though I started carrying a tube or even two and repair the tube at home where I have a can of Slime brand tire cement from the auto parts store with the built in applicator brush. I still have the repair kit but only use it as a last resort.

Otherwise I carry regular 4,5 and 6mm allen wrenches and a home made boot made of duct tape. I've never needed the boot. I carry a couple quick links, never needed them either. No chain tool as with mushroom pins it's not like it's advisable to be pushing out a pin and reinserting it like with the Sedis chains of old. I've tried it at home but it never seemed to have the same link movement as it should. In an emergency though I would do it. I've broken but one chain in my life though, in 1983 or something. A Sedis. I now use SRAM and KMC , 8 and 9sp w/o ever an issue. 

I did buy a Connex Link 9sp connector to try as they are tool-free and they can be reused many times over multiple chains. So if anyone has an issue with tight quick links on any chain(6-12sp) I'd suggest investing in some of those rather than carry a hefty chain pliers.

I loathe to eat anything while riding anymore so if I was really bonking I'd stop at a convenience store and get a small carton of whole milk and see if they had any very ripe bananas. Nice ripe bananas don't carry well from home at all.

Pretty much every ride though I go through what am I taking and ask if it's really needed. Pump, tube, patch kit and Quick-Stick, yes. My wallet is a tiny Chums and I carry my phone for an emergency ride, like a crank arm cracking mid ride which happened once. Even then, I've ridden countless times w/o anything extra and nothing happened but normaility :)

Oh yeah, the Topeak Morph pumps are the only I've used in the last 25 years. A Road, Mountain and I just got a Mini. I was so happy when I got these as frame pumps were just so wrong ergonomically for me. Having the mini floor pump is the best idea ever for a portable pump. Since riding Schwalbe 50mm Big Ben and 35mm Marathon Racers @ relatively low pressures of 30-45 psi however, I haven't needed to use them.

Right now I carry the tool stuff in either a Revelate Shrew seat bag or a small Timbuk seat bag in a bottle cage if my bag is otherwise full. 

For years I rode with a Filson cloth diy tool wrap and a toe strap attached to a bottle cage. I think it was Filson, maybe something else. That was over 20 years ago. Riv sold the cut cloth squares and the user filled them with whatever and wrapped like a closed burrito. I still have both of them. Very durable, rain doesn't penetrate when folded correctly.

I think less abut carrying anything extra on my Bomba than my custom 531 Franklin road bike as the Bomba is just a tank any way it's fitted.

[Nick Payne]

I have a couple of Daysavers and several of the bottle cage mounts for them on bikes. The Daysaver has 2.5/3/4/5/6/8mm allen keys plus Torx T25 and Phillips head bits that all nest inside each other to be about the size/shape of an 8mm allen key, and with the bottle cage mount it just slots in under the bottle cage. The fact that it's shaped like a normal allen key makes it much more convenient to use than most multi-tools with their short fold-out bits They also sell a separate add-on holder that incorporates a chain breaker, tyre lever, spoke key valve core tool, and holds a spare quicklink with magnets, though using the add-on means carrying it in a bag or pocket.

https://daysaver.fun/products/bike-multitool-essential8

https://daysaver.fun/products/bike-multitool-mount-carrier

https://daysaver.fun/products/bike-multitool-extension-coworking5

Nick Payne

[Oliver Moss]

Hey Patrick, sorry i missed your message till just now. 

I've seen a quick link removed by stacking it on top of the large chain ring and tapping one side of the link. Basically you get the link up on the top of the chain ring, lift it so that one of its pins is on the ring and the other it up in the air, (setting the pin of the neighboring link next to the lower pin of the quick link), then tap the appropriate side plate of the quick link. This makes the two pins move towards each other and loosens the link. 

Hope that makes sense. 

~Oliver