Electric Bike Circuit Diagram

[Kandy Swartzel]

Irecently had my knee replaced, and have difficulty walking at cars shows. I have bought and old Mongoose rocket fs and am in the process of fixing it up to move my 210lb carcass around. I ordered a seat post, tube, motor, throttle and controller fot it which should be here anyday. I am thinking now I should upgrade it to 36v to better move me around. Will the motor

handle 36v or should I upgrade it? I bought the controller to handle 24-60v, so it should be fine. I don't need a lot of speed, am more concerned with range, but thought a 36v would handle the load easier, generate less heat? Any advice?

Ok, got the correct motor and am in process of rewiring. The old wiring was all cut, and the new diagram provided with the controller does not accommodate the charging circuit. I would like to keep this feature if possible. Do you have one I can follow?

I've been looking for a wiring diagram to help me out, but the only one I could find on here (and google) is for 2001-2004. Are they the same? If so, can someone point me to a high quality version? Something I can print extra large without blur?

Also, any ideas on what caused the light to be dim? I just put in a brand new 60/60 bulb right before the inspection. I didn't notice a difference myself beforehand either. He has a few mods on him, but I haven't been able to find them all. It is a JDM spec bike, if that matters. The inspection machine is showing my bike puts out at 41??? as opposed to the 150??? requirement. Not sure what the ??? is, I'll have to ask my girlfriend since the inspection paperwork is in Japanese.

I think you will find the electrical diagram is essentially the same for 2005 as 2001-2004. With the possible exception, the 2005 start button disables the head light during starting. The switch can be a problem. Dirty contacts can result in no headlight or a dim headlight. As above a voltage test at the headlight is the place to start. Test the battery voltage at the battery motor not running key off. You should see 12.8 volts or above. If under 12.6 you might have a battery problem or it needs a charge. Now turn the key on motor not running, voltage will be less but should still be above 12 volts. Now test the voltage at the headlight. It will be less than at the battery due to losses in the wires and connections. Now start the motor and do all the voltage tests over again. All voltages should be higher. The headlight is rated for light output at I believe 13.8 volts but doubtful you will see that. Light output drops off quickly as the voltage drops. Hopefully you can get around 13 volts at the headlight with the motor running.

As above verify headlight ground. A missing ground puts power thru both filaments in series to find ground elsewhere in the electrical system. A new bulb can be bad. You should test the bulb separately.

Hello everyone,

This is my first post so please pardon me for my mistakes.

I was working on a project to make a LCD/LED based touch screen that displays and takes input for an electric scooter.

I have come to know that the Hub motor controller on the scooter provides very vital information such as speed,RPM of motor, battery consumption, range, battery status, and wanted to display all these information on a touch screen.

I have attached image of the motor controller and it's circuit diagram.

When pressing the brake lever on my ebike the bldc motor controller (aka ebike controller) 'cuts power' to the motor until the brake lever is released again/sensor is deactivated. I would love to know how that works/what happens.

I am wondering what causes the power to be 'cut off' when the sensor is triggered by pressing the brake lever.My theory is that the power (5v +) to the throttle and pedal assist sensor are cut off when one of the brake sensors is activated, this in turn causes the user to be unable to 'apply throttle' .

Perhaps my theory is way off, do any of you know how this works? Does it differ per case/controller ? Or is the method (of cutting off the power when one of the brake sensors is activated) quite universal ?

If your bike was configured to use a pedelec or pedal-assist mode, then the controller will detect when your cranks are turning, and the controller then instructs the motor what power levels to be putting out. There's generally some lag, where you have to do some rotation of the cranks before the motor starts to power you. At the other end, the same crank sensor will take a short time to decide you've stopped pedalling before it drops the motor assist.

Its conceivable that you may be braking hard, and have been riding at 60 RPM on the crank. Your feet may turn another half rotation, and then the motor takes a "missing" half rotation to decide to cut the power. That could be an entire second of time where your motor is powering you forward against the braking force, which is 7 metres at 25 km/h or about 2 car lengths.

Additionally, electric brake lever sensors can be used to activate secondary electric brakes and scavenge some power back into the battery. Sometimes this simply uses the motor as a generator, and sometimes there are separate coils.

It is just possible to use a Normally Closed (NC) Single Pole Double Pole (SPDT) relay to open/cut the motor current/voltage when the handbrake lever switch is applied (i.e., when the handbrake lever is used to brake the vehicle/E bike/Escooter.

The relay is, effectively, just used to reverse the standard Normally Open (NO) switch in the usual handlebar handbrake lever to a Normally Closed switch but it, the relay, now OPENS the motor voltage/current flow circuit through the relay when the handbrake is applied.

Be sure to use a relay coil voltage which is the SAME voltage as your E bike/Escooter battery and also ensure the relay's internal switching contacts will carry at LEAST twice (or preferably more!) the current in AMPS that the motor normally uses when it is on and working.

Standard Automotive relays will work fine PROVIDED it is Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT). Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) relays will work just fine but they are a bit of an overkill for the job that is needed. They just offer an extra set of contacts that will not normally re required.

This E-bike or electric bike circuit I have explained below can be used as the control circuit for constructing a homemade E-bike, with the help of a permanent magnet motor DC (PMDC motor), and a Li-Ion battery.

An electric bike is basically a bicycle powered through a motor and a battery, which does not require a manual pedaling for operating the bicycle. In some bikes a manual pedal assistance is also provided.

In this post we won't be discussing the entire wheel mechanism of the E-bike, rather we will only learn how to build the control circuit for the motor, and a finger press accelerator mechanism.

The idea is actually quite unconventional since this E-bike is supposed to operate without any pedal assistance. Instead the bike will depend entirely on the battery power. The battery could be charged externally through a suitable battery charger unit and grid power.

The E-bike project basically includes two elements, A PWM motor controller circuit and a finger press operated throttle or accelerator circuit. More information regarding the basic working details of the system is given below:

The function of the finger press accelerator is to provide the rider a facility through which he or she can increase or decrease the speed of the E-Bike motor through a corresponding pushing or releasing of the accelerator push button.

We can also see an LED/LDR arrangement fixed parallel to the spring loaded shaft, such that the light from LED can fall on the inner surface of the shaft and get reflected towards the LED. The amount of light that can be reflected depends upon the proximity of the shaft toward the LED/LDR configuration.

This causes the LDR resistance to decrease. Now, if the pressure on the push button is loosened, the shaft moves away from the LED/LDR assembly causing a proportionately lower amount of light to be reflected towards the LDR. The LDR resistance now increases.

The function of the PWM controller circuit is to sense the varying resistance of the LDR and convert it into a correspondingly changing PWM output. The PWM output is then fed to the E-bike motor for achieving the required speed control.

Therefore, as explained before, when the shaft inside the finger press accelerator unit is pushed closer to the LED/LDR assembly, the light on the LDR decreases, causing higher amount of potential difference to be generated at the base of T2.

Therefore, it is necessary to generate some initial kinetic energy on the bike through pedaling and only then push the accelerator switch, so that the motor can further assist the rider, allowing the pedaling to get easier.

For the finger press accelerator unit, if you find the LED/LDR assembly mechanics a little cumbersome, you can easily replace it with a force sensing resistor for getting the same results with higher efficiency, and in a more compact way. The modified design can be witnessed in the following diagram.

When pressure is applied on the force sensing resistor through finger pressing, the resistance of the force sensing resistor drops quite linearly, which is translated into PWMs with increasing width. The motor thus gains speed and acceleration.

The battery recommended for the above E-bike circuit is a 24V 10 Ah Li-ion Battery. A 15 Ah rated battery can be even better than a 10 Ah battery. The example of the battery can be seen in the following image.

I am an electronics engineer with over 15 years of hands-on experience. I am passionate about inventing, designing electronic circuits and PCBs, and helping hobbyists bring their projects to life. That is why I founded homemade-circuits.com, a website where I share innovative circuit ideas and tutorials. Have a circuit related question? Leave a comment.... I guarantee a reply!

I am using a motor picked form a DC water pump rated 12v -36v, the pump could solar panels if up to 160watts so i hope to use at at 24v with 2 x 12ah batteries in series. Will this controller work well with it

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