S&S Soft Case Backpack

[Kevin Williams]

Greetings, Randos!

Does anyone use the S&S Soft Case Backpack?

I have the Co Motion Co Pilot and have flown with it a couple of times, but it’s a challenge getting everything to fit. I usually take the Co Pilot and a carry on, but it’s a tight fit for both. I am considering just having two checked bags moving forward. Co Pilot for frame, tools, and other heavy stuff. Backpack for wheels, clothes, and other miscellaneous items. I figure I can add more padding/protection to the Co Pilot since the wheels wouldn’t be in there anymore. Same idea with the wheels in the backpack. 

Does anyone have experience with a similar setup, or just with the backpack specifically?

Thanks!

-Kevin W.

[Jake Kassen]

YES! I've used the backpack cases for dozens of trips, domestically and internationally. (I'm heading to Las Vegas with mine this coming Saturday if anyone wants to meet up.)

I originally had the real S&S branded backpack and now I have one made by Dill Pickle Gear. (Disclosure: I have a unique relationship with the owner of that company.) Travel is hard on the bags. The S&S bag had ripped and needed to be patched over the years. The DPG bag is better but still shows battle scars.

My experience is that the bags are great in many ways. It's not a comfortable backpack but perfect for going from the baggage claim to a car and again to wherever you are staying. If you are a solo traveler, it saves a lot of time and aggravation. I've never been given a hard time by the airlines or charged a higher fee. Sometimes the check in person asks what's in the bag, mostly because it's unusual. (I tell them them it's sporting equipment.)

Clothing packs the sides and provides cushioning. The bike is my only checked bag. Sometimes i put my pedals and derailleur in my carry-on bag if I'm too close to the 50lb limit.

Downside: The bike frame is going to get scratched. I've not had any real damage occur but the paint gets chipped in places where I didn't carefully cover the tubes. Emily (Dill Pickle) made herself nice tube covers but I normally just loosely wrap the tubes in felt. I've never been the sort of person to care about my bike's appearance but I know that would anger other people.

Here are some other tips: Electronic wireless shifting is terrific for travel bikes. Greatly cuts down on packing and unpacking time. (But it still takes 45m - 1 hour on each side.) I'm now using a wheel with the Velo orange hub that lets the cassette just pull off without any tools. This also helps with packing the bike.

Getting everything to fit and still zip the bag closed is an art. I'm always worried about TSA opening the bag and not getting it shut but so far, that hasn't happened.

Happy to answer more questions.

Jake

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[Andrew LaMarche]

Yep! I've used the S&S backpack, which I use in combination with the absolutely massive BUDS RollBag Pro+. I don't even decouple the rear two pieces of the frame. I could've done two S&S bags following the published instructions, but I didn't think my wife would appreciate wearing an awkward bike backpack. With the wheels on the roller bag, I can also carry the backpack, the roller bag, and two panniers from our car to the baggage drop independently, which is pretty nice. I didn't go with two roller bags in case (1) we run into a crabby baggage drop employee we might only have to pay for one special baggage fee, (2) we can't reliably get taxis/ride shares big enough to carry them [this is a real concern], and (3) so the bags fit in our smaller cars. On both SAS and United, my wife and I have flown these internationally as our only checked bags for free.

If airlines didn't have the 50lb weight limit that is typical these days, I could fit the whole thing in the BUDS bag. 

I have a love-hate relationship with the S&S backpack. On one hand, it is small and can be a standard checked bag which is commendable. It also forms a nice platform to re-couple the frame on when you might not have another flat, soft surface to work with (see here). On the other hand, the fabric is extraordinarily thin and the plastic hardware used to fasten the bottom of the backpack straps to the bottom of the pack is far too weak. One of them broke the first time we used it in an airport, resulting in the other strap's clip breaking from the impulse of the added load, and the bag (with the bike parts in it) falling a meter onto hard airport floor. Fortunately, the cushioning I added was effective, but the thing is absolutely miserable to move around without the backpack straps. 

I now use paracord with figure-8 follow-through knots and climbing carabiners to secure the backpack straps, and that seems to work well.

Regarding the fabric - Jake is right that it will get battle scars. After its first flight, it already had a pencil-sized hole in it, probably from being dragged against asphalt for a short distance. Definitely protect the teeth of the couplings, as they will mutilate the case fabric otherwise.

I generally cushion the crap out of my bike when I pack it. Packing clothing into the zippered compartments on the flat faces of the bag as Jake said is a good idea, but one time I got crap from a baggage attendant stating that "clothes/towels aren't bike gear." So now I just use leftover packaging from my online orders to cushion things, and cover all of the frame members using norprene pipe insulation of various inner diameters (like this) and plentiful D-loop velcro ties to keep them secured where I want them. I put a small bubble wrap doughnut to cover the spokes of the front wheel to keep it from cutting through the norprene and cutting up the paint. I also make sure to put in PVC pipes between the dropouts on the fork and the rear triangle to protect those.

Here are some poor shots of what it looks like. I've never actually taken good pictures of how I put things together, but maybe it's enough to give you a rough idea.

• front frame section packed in the S&S bag [missing some pads]
  • another (worse) view of the bag packed here
• balance of bike in BUDS Rollbag Pro+

If you're set on the backpack-style bag, it may be worth checking out Dill Pickle Gear and at least asking about the materials used compared to the S&S bag. I would say S&S's current quality (for their bags) is abysmal, and the cost is ridiculous for what you get.

-Andrew

[Kevin Williams]

Hi Jake and Andrew,

Thanks so much for the incredibly detailed deep dive! This is exactly the kind of "battle-tested" advice I was hoping for. It’s one thing to read the manufacturer’s specs, but another thing entirely to hear about what happens with the bag out in the real world.

Jake, I hope the Vegas trip went smoothly this past weekend and the bike made it through TSA unscathed. I’m definitely leaning toward the Dill Pickle Gear bag now, and that tip about the Velo Orange hub for tool-free cassette removal is piquing my interest.

Andrew, that story about your bag strap snapping sounds awful, but I have to respect the paracord and carabiner MacGyver fix. Very Rando of you! Also, thanks for the heads-up on the picky baggage agents regarding clothing; I’ll stick to wrapping the frame in the S&S velcro padding. It has worked well so far with the Co-Pilot.

I really appreciate you both taking the time to share your experiences. It’s given me a much clearer picture of what I’m getting into!

-Kevin W.

[Emily O'Brien]

Just to add to what Jake said: 
The dimensions required by airlines and the diameter of 700c wheels basically mean that to get under the maximum size, the bag is going to be 26"x 26"x 10" (well, theoretically; packing clothes into the outside pockets will puff it out, but no one has yet pulled out a tape measure). That's a tight space, and if you have a bulkier fork or a larger frame or wide bars or a long steerer tube etc, it can be a challenge to get the whole bike in there. There might be basically only one way to do it; if you find that way, make a note of it for future packing! For example, on my coupled Seven the fork is chunky enough that the only way everything gets in there safely is if the fork goes through the rear triangle. If I do that, it fits; if I don't, there's going to be a tube crossing a tube in a not good way. Although on the other hand, I'm able to get by without removing my cassette. 

Also, wheels can kinda take a beating, especially if you pack the bike with the wheels on the top and bottom. It can help if you add additional vertical struts (10" pieces of PVC or dowels with flanges at the ends) for those times when stuff gets piled on top of your bag, but that is another step and another thing to fit in somewhere. Disc brakes are nice for that because the wheel won't rub the brakes if it's out of true from being banged around in the case. If you have a choice, use hubs that attach the rotor with a lockring instead of with bolts, because you have to remove the rotors to pack them safely and the lockrings are much more convenient. But in any case, this is probably not the job for your fanciest ultralight wheelset. 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/randonneurs-usa/ffa327e7-47b8-4694-b129-0b0adbdb0242n%40googlegroups.com.

--

-----------------------------------

Dill Pickle
... gear for the extra mile

www.dillpicklegear.com
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[Mike Sturgill]

Hello,

Emily makes good points about packing. I have both a Hard and Soft case, and have used both for ~15 years. I have packed them at least 100 times. I have found that a soft case is infinitely easier to pack than the hard case. I did have one instance where my carbon fork was broken when using the soft case. It was that incident that prompted me to remove my fork before packing, and have done that ever since without issues. It turns out that the bike is easier to pack with the fork removed and the fork travels in a much safer location. It only takes an extra couple minutes to remove/install the fork.

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. I believe that packing a bicycle in a bike case is one of those instances. I was asked long ago if I could detail how to do it, so I created a web page with photos and descriptions. I recommend that you look this over and you DEFINITELY want to pack, unpack and build the bike before you travel with it! Pay special attention to the tools you use. Only lay the tools out that you plan to use and make sure that you can pack and build the bike with ONLY those tools. Then, make a note of those exact tools and make sure you take them with you. When you're in a remote location, that's all you will have with you.

Here is the link: https://www.azbrevet.com/assets/images/PackingMySnSBikeCase.htm

-Mike in Phoenix

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/randonneurs-usa/CAMwb-nC23%2BA6SD3YvdSmsN9RD2TojM6F7ihVmJRHrM49rGPo0A%40mail.gmail.com.

[Kevin Williams]

Hi Emily and Mike,

Thank you both for the additional technical tips!

Emily, I definitely feel the "puzzle" aspect of that 26" x 26" x 10" space. I also remove my fork, which seems to provide more packing flexibility. Also, thanks for the tip about centerlock rotors but I have rim brakes on my coupled bike.

Mike, I have to give you a huge shout-out. I’ve referenced your packing write-up so many times since I first got my coupled bike. I would be completely lost without those photos and detailed instructions, and your point about removing the fork definitely helps!

One of the main reasons I am writing is because I’m dealing with some "spoke anxiety." I currently use the Co-Pilot case and the PVC "compression members" Emily mentioned, but on a recent 1200k, my front wheel arrived slightly out of true. I have been worried about things shift during transit, and those PVC pipes or even the non-drive crank arm (per Mike's layout) are putting too much pressure on the spokes. A bit out of true is one thing, but I definitely don't want a broken spoke!

Because of that, I’m considering a two-bag strategy: using the Co-Pilot for the frame and heavy tools/hardware, and then a second soft or backpack case just for the wheels and clothes to pad them. Does anyone have experience splitting the load like this? I’m hoping it might help with the wheel issues and also give me a bit more room to breathe during the packing process.

I really appreciate you both taking the time to share your expertise!

--Kevin W.

[Jake Kassen]

I've never broken a spoke but my wheels have gone out slightly of true in transit. Not to the point of being unridable but it's part of game of traveling with a bike I've found. I've can true wheels at my destination if needed.

A second wheel-sized bag would make everything much, much easier and less risky for damage but would cost too much and be too much of a hassle for me to consider. When I travel I have the bike with most of my clothing on the sides and a backpack that can fit under the seat of the plane. Thankfully my work trips don't require packing a suit. :)

Jake


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[Andrew LaMarche]

My experience regarding wheels mirrors Jake's. I haven't had a wheel go out of true, granted my wheels have 40 spokes which may have something to do with it.

I keep a small universal spoke wrench in the bag in case I have issues.

[Charlie Martin]

I have traveled tons of times using the Co-Pilot S&S cases. I used to cram everything into a single case, but now and then I would arrive on the other end with a mangled spoke, bent cable, or one time a damaged and unusable front derailleur. The outsides of the cases have significant wear on them, including lots of torn fabric and broken straps, but there's enough strap redundancy that I'm still comfortable to use them until things deteriorate further. I add flattened cereal boxes to the inside corners of the case to give them some additional structural integrity.

Eventually I switched to using 2 cases and life is so much better. Back when Southwest had free checked bags, it made a lot more sense, but I may start being more judicious. 2 cases is more expensive and it increases the chance that the airline loses at least one of your bags, which is has happened to me on a number of occasions. I pack all the 100% essential things in one case and hope the airline doesn't lose that one. Food, sunscreen, clothing, and even a front wheel go in the second case since they can more reliably be replaced on the other end compared to e.g. your frame or a piece of your drivetrain. I still use a single case sometimes when a second one would be prohibitively expensive or when it just isn't an option. Due to having much more space it use, I even ended up with some extra space in each case that I then filled with some extra foam padding.

Switching to eTap electronic shifting made it much more convenient to remove/reattach components for safer travel. Switching to a 1x drivetrain was another optimization I made with travel in mind. I'm a big fan of fewer things to break in transit and on the road, and fewer things to uninstall/reinstall and adjust on either end of the trip.

- Charlie

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[Dave Thompson]

I know that the topic is backpacks / soft sided cases, but here's my experience, FWIW, having traveled with the bike a lot.

My first experiences traveling with a bike case were with the case that was sold by performance bike.  That was basically pre-rando.  Remove wheels and pedals, turn handlebars - easy to pack and unpack, awkward to transport.

When I built my first coupled bike, I purchased the soft sided comotion (?) case, call it semi soft.  I only used it once, or rather outbound, and had the hard sided S&S case delivered to me at the hotel for the return flight.  I was uncomfortable with things being able to move around in the case and I didn't particularly like the setup with wheels and handle.

For the next few years with that bike, using the S&S hard case (and I still do use that case), my solution was to put everyihing into the case EXCEPT for stem and handlebars.  With a level top tube, I had to pull the fork along with bottle cages, seatpost and saddle, rear derailleur and chain, adding tools and spares.  It comes in well under 50 pounds.  The handlebars and stem fit nicely in my suitcase with bike clothers etc. packed all around.  I only packed the handlebars in the hard case once and decided that it was much less effort and risk to pack them in the suitcase.

Early 2025 I built up a hydraulic disk bike with the new Z couplers, including a coupler on the stem.  Now I don't have to pull the fork but disassembly is more complicated because I also remove the brake calipers, rotors, cassette,   Win some and lose some.  The handlebarts with hydraulic lines and calipers attached go in the clothes suitcase.  I've also added to my collection of spares that go in the case including hydraulic fluid, brake pads, rotors ... If I went back to my builder and added one coupler, I could eliminate removing the cassette.  I haven't botherd.  

The hard case has a lot of travel.  The butterfly latches don't stay closed if they were the only thing holding the case together but I have orange straps gorilla taped around the box and a spring clip that will hold the case closed (along with the straps) if the butterfly latches open.  On one trip one of the rivets holding a latch in place broke and I replace the rivet with a short nut, washer and bolt from a hardware store.  I could reengineer closures and latches but haven't.  

Others like using two cases.  My solution works for me.  Keeping the S&S case to the minimum of bike and tools may make it easier for inspectors to discern the contents as I can't remember the case ever being opened.   

Dave.

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[Bill Bryant]

For my rando bike, I have a tall frame with a level top tube, and use fenders. With the forks out, I can fit it all into a S&S soft case (barely) with deflated tires (thanks Mike Sturgill for the advice!), but over time I’ve started putting the bar/stem/brake levers into my suitcase and packing the bike case became a lot easier.  I like the idea of using two S&S cases, but my ground transport options seem a bit easier with using a medium-sized suitcase than a second S&S case.

Bill Bryant 

RUSA #7

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[Mark Thomas]

FWIW, I travel a fair amount with a large coupled bike with hydraulic brakes and use two S&S-style hard cases (and a carry-on backpack). Don’t remove rotors, calipers, fork, or bottle cages. Rear wheel and all non-bike stuff goes in one case. Rest of bike in another. Wheels squeeze into lids of both cases. Since a poor experience with a bent rotor in Thailand, I’ve used rotor protectors inside the case.

As Bill says, it’s a bit bulky at other end of travel, but even a small taxi can usually get one case in trunk and one in rear seat. Most have no trouble fitting both in trunk. 

Mark

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[Iwan Barankay]

I would like to offer a somewhat different solution and perspective as a European. I have a regular frame that doesn't come apart, but I travel to Europe with the bike every year. So far, I have always used cheap cardboard boxes from bike shops, which travel as luggage (no extra fee) on most international flights, and I don't care if they get beaten up; I've never had any damage to the bike. (Note for international travel: you mustn't tape it shut as TSA checks the box in the US. Stay with your box at the oversized check-in to make sure they close it again correctly.) 

The other reason I like cardboard boxes is that I often arrive in one place but leave in another, and I abandon the box at airports and ride from there. The best thing to fight jet lag is to assemble the bike at the airport and ride away. Finally, unlike in the US, many airports in Europe still offer luggage storage for $15- $ 20 per day. Check their webpages. When I rode PBP, I stored my cardboard box at CDG. Nice Airport in France even sells bike cardboard bike boxes and tape at the luggage service station.

Iwan

[Kevin Williams]

Wow, huge thanks to everyone who chimed in! I’m really grateful to be part of such a dedicated and engaged community. A special shout-out to Hamid for taking time out of his busy schedule to chat with me about his specific setup.

There are so many great ideas here, and just like in randonneuring, it’s clear you have to find the specific system that works for you.

My refined strategy is to try using the Co-Pilot for the frame and wheels, while using a separate standard hard-shell suitcase for the handlebars, fork, and other misc gear, using clothing for padding throughout. I am also considering doing away with the PVC pipes in the Co-Pilot. I’m concerned they’re doing more harm than good to the spokes. Or, without the fork and handlebars in the main bag, maybe I can cinch the cargo net down tight enough for a stable fit with the compression members. This remains to be seen. Also, for anyone looking, I checked with Co-Motion and they expect the Co-Pilot cases to be back in stock mid-to-late Summer.

Before I pull the trigger on any new equipment, I’m going to try to borrow a case (hard, soft, and hybrid) to see which setup actually clicks for me.

Huge thanks again to everyone who got involved in this discussion!

-Kevin W.