bike chains prep questions

[Ronald Long]

So - I finally bit the bullet, and cleaned a couple brand new chains before first use.

Mostly followed: https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Chain-prep-Guide-Concise-v2.pdf

A couple questions:

1. how many chains at a time do you usually prepare? (I did two, but probably have immediate use for both. Can they sit around after cleaning without worrying about them rusting?)

2. I only did 2 mineral spirits and one alcohol wash. Is there a real difference to doing the recommended 3 and 2?).

3. is there anything less toxic than mineral spirits and denatured alcohol that works? Ideally something that doesn't have to go to a hazardous waste disposal site.

thanks!

ronald

[ken jessett]

I see no point in cleaning new chains, the factory protetcion is good enough for quite a few miles of dry riding.

[Russ Loomis]

Ronald,
Thirty years ago I put the chain on the bike right out of the box. I was not happy doing this because when the chain needed re-lubing I could feel sand gritting when bending the chain. This protective coating is very sticky. Twenty five years ago I began cleaning all the factory coating from the chain. Doing this my chain doesn’t pick up grit and the chain is feels smooth while bending. I have also found that my chains last longer.
To answer the next question, I keep an extra chain cleaned, cut to length, and pre-lubed. It doesn’t rust by doing this and when I need to replace the chain I have one that is all set to go.

Russ
The not yet ready for prime time cyclist

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[Nyssa Hartokolis]

Ronald,

I always recommend keeping at least one extra chain waxed and ready to go then what you have in use. IME if I do a wet ride that chain needs to go into the wax asap (I do a crock pot with Silca). If I have a fresh chain ready I won’t be held up for my next ride. I also am a nerd and keep an “event” chain that I will only use on brevets or races just for that little extra benefit—I rotate that through to the back up chain once it sees a bit of wear but that takes about 3-4k now!

I do three denatured alcohol shakes/agitations with a warm/hot water rinse in between each. I found that sufficient to get the desired loose change noise that I’m looking for in a stripped chain.

The OEM coating on chains is intense stuff, denatured alcohol is as mild a solvent as I have found works but it’s better than mineral spirits atmo.

Welcome to the wax club,

Nyssa

#11377

On Oct 11, 2023, at 10:28, Russ Loomis <cycle...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[JinUk SHin]

Factory protection isn't there to lube a chain.  Its mostly there to protect the chain from getting damage/rust during transport.  Its best to clean off the chain.

Regarding your last question, Silca's chain prep is pretty good and seems to get okay results according to ZF.  I keep 3 chains on rotation and haven't had to replace a chain in 2 years.   In between, I just poor hot water over the chain to remove any gunk, shake, and then get ready for a new waxing.  

JinUk

[Gary Kanaby]

Not sure what chains you are using but I have been using dura ace chains out of the box not cleaning or lubing them for 20 or 300k.  Then clean and possibly lube after each long ride.   I have had them last for up to 6000 miles.  

Gary Kanaby

C: 281-906-9572

On Oct 11, 2023, at 1:22 PM, JinUk SHin <jinu...@gmail.com> wrote:

Factory protection isn't there to lube a chain.  Its mostly there to protect the chain from getting damage/rust during transport.  Its best to clean off the chain.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/randonneurs-usa/fe86079b-37d2-4152-97f4-6b5b574673d2n%40googlegroups.com.

[ken jessett]

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain. This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.

[Joshua Haley]

According to Shimano, that is true.  According to independent testing, not so much. Admittedly, there is some bias here, but Friction Facts has some rigor behind their testing, whereas Shimano might have internal testing, but it's unpublished and largely marketing.  Getting 6000 miles out of a chain with factory grease is an excellent indicator of the material sciences put into chains, but maybe it could have gotten 6300? 

In the end, I won't complain about any lube that keeps a chain from rusting and squealing.  If you strip off all of the factory grease, wax/lube the chain before storage.  If you want to just throw the chain on the bike from the box, honestly, the <3w penalty isn't going to be something you notice. 

https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Lubricant-detail-review-Factory-Grease-v1.1.pdf

Josh

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[Bill Gobie]

Replying to Ken about dry conditions: the wet season is starting for Ronald and me. Factory lube builds up a chain eating gritty emulsion that is far harder to remove than degreasing a new chain. 

Bill Gobie 

[JinUk Shin]

I've heard good things about https://ceramicspeed.com/products/ufo-drip-wet-conditions-100-ml but I don't believe ZF has done a test on this.  His overall thoughts on wet riding is to do a hot water clean + dip if riding in substantial rain.  

RE: Factory Grease - ZF has stated that he believes its okay to run FG and then use something like Silca Synergetic over time to replace the FG.  As Bill mentions though, in situations where buildup forms, it'll be extremely difficult to fully clean that/remove that from a chain once you start getting it dirty.  

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[Gary Kanaby]

Never tried this lube. But I use their bearings and they are the best. 

Gary Kanaby

C: 281-906-9572

On Oct 11, 2023, at 3:26 PM, JinUk Shin <jinu...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[ken jessett]

I can't get too excited about chains, they do their job as long as they are cleaned every now and again and a cheap chain lasts about as long as an expensive one in my experience. Lubes the same, as a mechanic in the LBS said a couple of days ago, they all do much the same job. I wash my chain whenever it looks dirty or give it a good soaking with White lightning and sometimes 3 in 1 then lube it with whatever is to hand. Whenever I measure the links and find they are stretched I'll replace the chain - probably later than is good for it but I'd rather not spoil the bikes unless they get to feel far too important - you know how uppity bikes can be. As far as 'independent testing' goes, without citation it might just be the opinion of the drunk holding up the end of the bar. 

I never keep a spare chain around, I'd probably forget its there anyway and go buy another one.

Interesting thread. :-)

[Ronald Long]

Thanks all for your comments. I found some small metal containers I had lying around, and "drenched" each of the chains to make sure they won't rust - one in Smoove (for my indoor trainer) and the other in Boeshield T9 Bicycle Lube. Next one will get NixFrixShun, and maybe by then I'll be ready to give wax a try.

[Cheng-Hong Li]

A freshly waxed chain (either soaked in hot wax, or lubed with drip wax like Smoove) will shake off tiny dried wax particles. Place some old newspaper or towel under the trainer bike so it's easier to clean. Or only use a lubed chain for trainer bike.

I keep 3 waxed chains in rotation. Each chain goes through a cycle of one hot wax bath and then 2 applications of drip wax. I hot wax two chains at a time. Wet-lubed chains are reserved for rainy brevets. So far each wax chain has about 3-4k miles and shows little wear. The front chainrings are still going strong (>12k miles). Same for the cassettes. I do not plan to go back to lubed chains anytime soon. 

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