I'd like to spec it with canti's and clearance for 700x35c
tires. Most of the riding will be on-road, but I'd like
to be able to take it on *gentle* dirt/gravel roads (no
real rough stuff, cyclo-cross, or mtb'ing).
I understand that 531ST is much thicker/stouter than 531C.
Would it be overkill to spec the 531C for a bike that will
never be ridden with more than a bar-bag and racktop pack?
One concern I do have is that the seatstays not be too
flexible with the canti brakes (Avid C-15's). FWIW, I'm
approx 200 pounds and a pretty "smooth" rider.
Any advice is appreciated.
--mc
==============================================
Mark Chandler Concord, CA ve...@value.net
http://value.net/~velo
==============================================
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Chandler <ve...@value.net>
To: <ran...@topica.com>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 10:56 PM
Subject: Reynolds 531C vs 531ST
>
> I'd like to spec it with canti's and clearance for 700x35c
> tires. Most of the riding will be on-road, but I'd like
> to be able to take it on *gentle* dirt/gravel roads (no
> real rough stuff, cyclo-cross, or mtb'ing).
Not sure about the frame spec. but do you really need 700X35 tyres? I run
700X25 on my Dawes Galaxy and they do just fine - commuting, audaxing, rough
stuff the lot. I,ve had the odd flat of course but no other problems. I
can't imagine pushing 35s along!
Peter South
>
> >
> > Ahhhhhhh..... but the item of information everyone leaves out of
> > these tire discussions, is how much do you weigh?
> >
> > I'm a fairly large fellow, about 210 lbs on a really, really good
> > day, a bit more usually, and will regularily pinch flat or flat anything
> > smaller than a 28. So I find the original reasoning very sound, for me
> > anyway.
>
> I weigh 12stone plus, 170lbs in USA speak - I used to have pinch flats
> (snake bites in the U.K.) until I discovered track pumps and pressure
> gauges! I look at the max. pressure on the tyre and then add a good 10% at
> least. Pump them up HARD and no matter what you weigh they won't pinch. Take
> a look at any car handbook, they tell you to increase the pressure for a
> full load. The quoted maximum pressures on bike tyres are well inside the
> safe limit. My Hutchinsons say 115 psi, I put 140 psi in and I can't even
> remember the last time I had a puncture - must be well over a year ago.
> Peter S.
Amazingly enough I know how to use a track/floor pump and a pressure gauge.
Air volume is your friend on rough roads and dirt/unpaved roads. The more
volume, the more cushion, etc. A 32 or even 35mm tire at 75 pounds is
more comfortable than a 25 or 28mm tire at 120+ psi.
My original posting said that the bike would see a mix of paved and unpaved
use. While there will/would be clearance for 35mm tires, it won't be shod
with them 100% of the time. But, I know from experience that skinny tires
at high pressure are awful for unpaved use.
Lastly, my size, and the fact that I don't want to have to worry about every
pothole, stone, cigarette butt, etc, is why I want wider tires. This would not
be the bike I'd take on a fast 200K brevet, but the one I can wander along and
explore dirt roads on.
My current skinny-tire bike has 700x25c Michelin Axial Select tires. These
measure 25mm on the bike's Mavic MA2 rims. They're fine when I want to go
fast (well, fast for *me*), but the ride is a tad rough on bad roads, in the
dark, etc. The frame (mid-80's Holdsworth) *might* be able to fit a 28c
tire, but it's unlikely. I'd like to be able to run 700x32c tires
w/mudguards, and even 35s when I know I'll be exploring dirt roads. I won't
be running fat(ter) tires all the time, but I'd like the option to do so.
http://damonrinard.com/rinard_frametest.html
Dan
------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BFB227.29EC8BA0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Mark,
I'd highly recommend reading "Touring Bikes - A Practical Guide" by Tony =
Oliver, published by Crowood (ISDN 85223 339 7). You may be able to =
borrow it from the library.=20
It's very informative about frame building materials and covers most =
Reynold's tubing including 531C and 531ST as well as Columbus, Tange and =
Vitus alternatives. It also covers geometry, and other aspects of =
design.
Regards,
Paul,
New Zealand.
------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BFB227.29EC8BA0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Mark,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'd highly recommend reading "Touring =
Bikes - A=20
Practical Guide" by Tony Oliver, published by Crowood (ISDN 85223 339 =
7). You=20
may be able to borrow it from the library. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>It's very informative about frame =
building=20
materials and covers most Reynold's tubing including 531C and 531ST as =
well as=20
Columbus, Tange and Vitus alternatives. It also covers geometry, and =
other=20
aspects of design.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Paul,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>New Zealand.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BFB227.29EC8BA0--
Well said Peter. Sheila has used 19mm tyres for years, for everything
including touring with smallish panniers, sometimes on unsurfaced Alpine
tracks.
I used to use 19s but I must admit in recent years I've gone up to 23s,
I quite like the extra weight round the rim which stabilises the
handling a bit.
As to the original query re frame materials - I think the concern re
canti's on thin-walled tubes is a legitimate one, but other than that I
would have thought 531C would be much more suitable - for the loads
described 531ST would surely be over-engineering. Many frame-builders
these days offer 'mixed' tubesets so that you can have some extra beef
on the seatstays, say, without carting heavy main tubes around.
Francis Cooke
--
Francis Cooke
Sheila Simpson
@aukhawk.demon.co.uk
> Peter South <Pe...@maple7.freeserve.co.uk> writes
> >but do you really need 700X35 tyres? I run
> >700X25 on my Dawes Galaxy and they do just fine - commuting,
> audaxing, rough
> >stuff the lot.
>
> Well said Peter. Sheila has used 19mm tyres for years, for everything
> including touring with smallish panniers, sometimes on
> unsurfaced Alpine
> tracks.
Ahhhhhhh..... but the item of information everyone leaves out of
these tire discussions, is how much do you weigh?
I'm a fairly large fellow, about 210 lbs on a really, really good
day, a bit more usually, and will regularily pinch flat or flat anything
smaller than a 28. So I find the original reasoning very sound, for me
anyway.
Pete
Ontario, NY
USA
> Peter South <Pe...@maple7.freeserve.co.uk> writes
> >but do you really need 700X35 tyres? I run
> >700X25 on my Dawes Galaxy and they do just fine - commuting, audaxing, rough
> >stuff the lot.
>
> Well said Peter. Sheila has used 19mm tyres for years, for everything
> including touring with smallish panniers, sometimes on unsurfaced Alpine
> tracks.
>
> I used to use 19s but I must admit in recent years I've gone up to 23s,
> I quite like the extra weight round the rim which stabilises the
> handling a bit.
>
> As to the original query re frame materials - I think the concern re
> canti's on thin-walled tubes is a legitimate one, but other than that I
> would have thought 531C would be much more suitable - for the loads
> described 531ST would surely be over-engineering. Many frame-builders
> these days offer 'mixed' tubesets so that you can have some extra beef
> on the seatstays, say, without carting heavy main tubes around.
Remember, I'm 210 pounds. I'll be riding a 56cm frame, which I suspect
is a bit taller than someone who can ride 19mm tires on unpaved roads.
Also, I'm coming off 18 years of off-road riding, so I'll have to "unlearn"
many habits from time spent in the dirt.
What I may opt for is a stouter downtube and the aforementioned beefier
seatstays.
Then again, if I chuck it all in favor of 26" (559) wheels, the whole
point might be moot (time to check the sjscycles/thorn web pages again).
>
> Ahhhhhhh..... but the item of information everyone leaves out of
> these tire discussions, is how much do you weigh?
>
> I'm a fairly large fellow, about 210 lbs on a really, really good
> day, a bit more usually, and will regularily pinch flat or flat anything
> smaller than a 28. So I find the original reasoning very sound, for me
> anyway.
I weigh 12stone plus, 170lbs in USA speak - I used to have pinch flats
That's, er, now I've just got to covert from archaic units to *really*
archaic units ... ah yes, well, quite a lot - I was heavier than that at
the start of this year :-( and I tour on 23s. My main cause of flats is
lifted patches. Sheila is of course a lightweight.
Francis
aukhawk wrote:
> My main cause of flats is lifted patches.
I used to have this problem until I started enforcing
5-min dry time before putting the patch on using a
watch. I don't think I've had a patch lift on me since.
Dan