One that looks rather appealing is the soft "backpack" case:
http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_back.htm
I very much like the idea of carrying the bike on my back and being able to condense the case once I get to my destination. Anyone have experience with this case?
Jake
I have the hard case for my S & S coupled bike and even it has
returned to me dented, although, remained structurally sound while
doing it's job and protecting the bike. The hard cases accommodate
"compression fittings" which are tantamount to protecting the bike ..
I don't know if they would work with the soft case but I could be
wrong.
At the time I retrofitted my bike and bought the case I'd considered
the soft case (it was cheaper) but decided against it based on
recommendations from other owners and Belinky's who did the job for
me.
Bob
For me the backpack mode never worked all that well as the hub of the
wheel was strategically positioned on my spine and even with padding/
plastic disk etc it was very uncomfortable. So I often carry it by one
strap over a shoulder. As a result one of the straps broke.
With the tube protectors and some clothes I think it gives an adequate
amount of protection. I have not yet had any problems anyway.
Biggest plus, is that it is easy to stash this bag in a locker or at
hotel. You could probably even collapse it and strap it to your rack
in a pinch if you wanted to fly out of a different location.
Bryce
Even so, I greatly prefer the S&S box to the Ritchey bag. Airline
legal and better protection.
I remove the front brake caliper which makes it possible. That way I don't
have to remove the front brake cable. I don't use the Ritchey cable
connectors as it's one more thing to get loose/break/whatever. Instead I
leave the rear cabling (rear brake and both derailleurs) attached so that
the handlebars are connected to the rear section of the frame. That keeps
me from having to futz around with adjusting everything when I unpack the
bike. There's a bit more juggling getting everything in the case, but it
works. I also drop the rear derailleur off the frame, but with the cables
still intact. Otherwise the derailleur becomes the high point with the case
pressing against it. The same thing happens in a conventional bike case
with a single piece frame.
I use external BB Shimano cranks on this bike. At the size of bike I ride,
one needs to remove the cranks to get the rear frame section in the S&S box.
The Shimano cranks are very fast and easy to remove and install and that way
I don't need to remove the pedals. The only tools needed for the complete
assembly and dissambly are 4 and 5mm Allen keys for the frame, cranks, stem,
brakes and rear derailleur. I need a 3mm to take off the bottle cages and a
small adjuster for the preload on the cranks.
I precut a new chain when I go somewhere and pack it (and a quick link) in a
zip lock bag.
I also pack a spare of the downtube clamp. It's not something one would
find quickly if one needed a replacement.
Craig
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "randon" group.
> To post to this group, send email to ran...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> randon-un...@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/randon/