Difference between Campy 'Record' 10 speed and 11 speed cranks?
Bill Taylor
Can anyone please tell what the difference is between these two
models of Campagnolo 'Record' cranks?
I just got a new bike, and it's equipped with Campagnolo 'Record' 11
speed, but the cranks that came with it are 10 speed, 'Record'
cranks. At the store, I was told this was necessary, as they
couldn't get 11 speed, 'Record' cranks in a 180 mm length. Despite
this alteration to the parts on this bike, the store assured me that
both 11 and 10 speed cranks are the same, and the only difference is
cosmetic - meaning that my cranks don't have the '11 speed' decal on
them.
Yet despite the claim of the store, the front shifting on this bike
is terrible. It consistently rubs on the front derailleur when in
either the lowest, first gear, or the top gear.
My guess, is that this is caused by some sore of alignment
difference, between the 10 speed and 11 speed cranks. Can anyone
please confirm this, one way or another - that the 10 and 11 speed
cranks are either dimensionally the same, or are in fact, different?
Many thanks,
Bill
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Bill Taylor,
Ottawa, Ontario,
CANADA
Ian Boehm
> My guess, is that this is caused by some sore of alignment
> difference, between the 10 speed and 11 speed cranks. Can anyone
> please confirm this, one way or another - that the 10 and 11 speed
> cranks are either dimensionally the same, or are in fact, different?
This sounds like a warranty problem Bill. Take your jigger straight back
to the shop and get them to fix it to your satisfaction. If they don't
or can't, seek a remedy from whatever consumer protection legislation
covers your jurisdiction.
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Cheers
__o
_`\<,
...(*)/(*)
Ian Boehm
russell...@yahoo.com
are closer together than on the 10 speed crank because the chain is
thinner on the 11 speed than 10 speed. And I suspect the 11 speed
front derailleur has a narrower cage than the 10 speed front
derailleur. So you have a wider crank, 10 speed, and a narrow front
derailleur, 11 speed. Thus more rubbing at the edges. You should be
able to adjust this by adding more lateral movement to the front
derailleur. Campagnolo with its front derailleur trimming clicks can
move the front derailleur side to side in small increments and prevent
rubbing. You just need to increase its side to side movement by
turning the front derailleur adjustment screws to allow the front
derailleur cage to move closer to the seattube and closer to the
crankarm. I'm not claiming this is the best solution, just a
solution.
On Jun 18, 3:59 am, Bill Taylor <pedal...@bellnet.ca> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Can anyone please tell what the difference is between these two
> models of Campagnolo 'Record' cranks?
>
> I just got a new bike, and it's equipped with Campagnolo 'Record' 11
> speed, but the cranks that came with it are 10 speed, 'Record'
> cranks. At the store, I was told this was necessary, as they
> couldn't get 11 speed, 'Record' cranks in a 180 mm length. Despite
> this alteration to the parts on this bike, the store assured me that
> both 11 and 10 speed cranks are the same, and the only difference is
> cosmetic - meaning that my cranks don't have the '11 speed' decal on
> them.
>
> Yet despite the claim of the store, the front shifting on this bike
> is terrible. It consistently rubs on the front derailleur when in
> either the lowest, first gear, or the top gear.
>
> My guess, is that this is caused by some sore of alignment
> difference, between the 10 speed and 11 speed cranks. Can anyone
> please confirm this, one way or another - that the 10 and 11 speed
> cranks are either dimensionally the same, or are in fact, different?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> --
>
>
> I can be reached on the MSN Messenger service using this e-mail address:
> This free program is easy to download, install and configure.
>
> For various Macintosh versions of MSN Messenger:http://www.microsoft.com/mac/products/messenger/default.mspx
>
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> e-mail: pedal...@belnet.ca<mailto:pedal...@bellnet.ca>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dan Rearden
Dan
Dark Horse
seat thickness has been a standard dimension for a long time, along
with the chainline measurement. The critical difference is in the
rings.
A) 11s rings are thinner than 10s rings, which are thinner than 9s
rings and so on. It's possible to run 10s chains on 9s rings, and 9s
chains on 8s or 7s rings. I don't know as I'd try that with 11s
chains, I certainly wouldn't recommend it without trying it for
myself.
B) Along with being thinner, chainring centerlines have gotten closer
together as cog counts increased. Thinner rings move the centerlines
closer anyway, and the teeth on 9/10 inner rings are offset slightly
to the outside. With a narrower chain, this doesn't necessarily result
in increased chain run (on the outer ring). Run a wider chain, though,
and it will.
What I hear you saying is that your mechanic doesn't know how to set
up a front derailleur. The 11s front derr is narrower than the 10s,
because of the chain. Using a 10s FD with an 11s chain will not
improve your shifting, and might exceed the cable-pull limits of your
shifter.
Dark Horse
Bill Taylor
Many thanks for your thoughtful insights, here.
Truth be told, just getting to this point with
this bike, has been nothing short off an
incredible roller-coaster of emotions, that at
one point, had the entire deal cancelled for
about a month or so. However, I managed to
resurrect it with the initial store that only
sold me about half the bike. The rest of this
bike was completed through another, local bike
store.
So, it wasn't until the second store was
completing this bike, that they concluded that
the braze-on for the front derailleur is
apparently out of alignment with the rest of the
frame's proportions. And considering that the
frame didn't come from them, they alerted me to
this deficiency, which had me going back to the
first shop to try and sort it out.
So, my initial question and concerns that I
posted to the mail-list, were part of my initial
attempts to get a handle on this situation.
In the end, I expect that if trimming the length
of the cable doesn't improve the shifting, then,
I'll have to take it back to the 1st shop, and
suggest that they try simply filing the FD
brace-on, so that the FD is better situated in
relation to the rest of this bike's proportions,
thereby allowing it to better function.
Otherwise, I'm open to suggestions?
Thanks again,
Bill
Dark Horse
On Jun 20, 12:17 am, Bill Taylor <pedal...@bellnet.ca> wrote:
> HI Dark Horse,
>
> Many thanks for your thoughtful insights, here.
>
> Truth be told, just getting to this point with
> this bike, has been nothing short off an
> incredible roller-coaster of emotions, that at
> one point, had the entire deal cancelled for
> about a month or so. However, I managed to
> resurrect it with the initial store that only
> sold me about half the bike. The rest of this
> bike was completed through another, local bike
> store.
>
> So, it wasn't until the second store was
> completing this bike, that they concluded that
> the braze-on for the front derailleur is
> apparently out of alignment with the rest of the
> frame's proportions. And considering that the
> frame didn't come from them, they alerted me to
> this deficiency, which had me going back to the
> first shop to try and sort it out.
Out of alignment how? There are several possibilities.
1) Distance from the centerline of the frame can be off. Either too
far out or too far in, not common either way. Braze-ons are made for
different diameter seat tubes, so that the FD mount distance varies as
little as possible. Affects the inner/outer travel limits. Not easily
correctible on most frames.
2) Angular location on seat tube can be wrong. Rotated too far
around the ST forward or back, so that the FD mount isn't at the right
angle with respect to the crank. Not uncommon, and often somewhat
correctible. Limits the possible angles of the FD, so that it may not
be possible to set it parallel to the chainrings.
3) Brz-on may not be parallel to center of seat tube. In this case
the bottom edge of the cage plate cannot be made to properly follow
the curvature of the large ring. Not uncommon, and somewhat fixable.
For 2 and 3, a file is an acceptable tool for cleaning up the
alignment, to a point. There is actually a tool for locating and
aligning FD brz-ons, although only frame builders use it.
What is the frame made of, and how is the Brz-on attached? Brazing
can be redone, bolts/rivnuts can be fiddled, but poprivets are
forever.
>
> In the end, I expect that if trimming the length
> of the cable doesn't improve the shifting, then,
> I'll have to take it back to the 1st shop, and
> suggest that they try simply filing the FD
> brace-on, so that the FD is better situated in
> relation to the rest of this bike's proportions,
> thereby allowing it to better function.
troubles. If the Fd is even close to proper alignment, your chain rub
is an out-of-adjustment error. Address this by setting the limit
screws correctly, and adjusting the cable tension to cover the range.
Dark Horse
bobby...@bendbroadband.com
SP
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