"Image Composite Editor (ICE) is an advanced panoramic image stitcher created by the Microsoft Research Computational Photography Group. Given a set of overlapping photographs of a scene shot from a single camera location, the app creates high-resolution panoramas that seamlessly combine original images"
It's free and highly regarded by many reviewers.
@BzKevin
There is an dt Lua script, that sends selected images to hugin to create the panorama and then reimports the result. Afaik it uses TIFF as export and import format, so it is completely 16bit.
thanks for the reply.
but yea, i tried the 'create panorama' in the assistance tab, as well as 'stitch!' in the stitcher tab, with the output set to JPEG, but it still opens a save project file window, where it only gives me the option to save the image as a .pto file...
ages ago(permalink)
The hugin package is removed from Ubuntu 22.04 repository. For those need this free open-source panorama stitcher, here are 3 alternative methods to install it back. Just choose the one that you prefer.
Using photo stitching software is essential for landscape and panorama photographers. It can deliver excellent results and save you a lot of time. The following list covers the best photo stitching software options.
This photo stitching software is the perfect solution if you want a program that will do it all for you. It requires no user input to sift through images. AutoStitch selects the images that match up. Then it pieces them together to create a panorama.
enblend needs a lot of memory and uses its own swap routine to store picture data on the disk, this message indicates that you have run out of disk space. The data is stored in the system temp folder which is specified by TMP, TEMP or TMPDIR environment variables, note that this temp folder may be on a different physical disk to your photos and panorama output.
Basically the XYZ mosaic mode as it is implemented currently in Hugin requires that the mosaic photos must be mapped to a plane perpendicular to the view direction - In practice this means that what you are trying to do only works if the panorama is rotated such that the nadir is in the middle of the canvas and not at the bottom.
Hugin shows photos at the angle they best fit into the panorama, so if thepanorama fit is bad, then you will see strange angles in the Control Pointstab. Probably the problem is caused by bad alignment, you canidentify 'bad' Control points in the Hugin Control Points table, delete them and re-optimise.
If you copy a .pto project to a different folder and open it with hugin, you will be prompted for the 'missing' images. You should delete any control points from this template project since they won't be relevant to the new photos.
If this doesn't work then you can use the Move/Drag tab of the Hugin Fast Preview window to visually straighten the panorama, drag the photos with the mouse, use the right mouse button to rotate. One useful tip is to drag the panorama so a vertical feature is in the middle, rotate it so the feature lines up with the 'cross hair', then drag the panorama up or down until all the vertical features in the scene are vertical on the screen (holding down the shift key while dragging limits the motion to just up/down or left/right).
See also the related perspective correction tutorials: hugin tutorial on perspective correction, Perspective correction, Leveling a Finished Panorama. While these are concerned with correction of the perspective in one image, the same technique can be used forleveling a panorama.
Hugin uses the first photo as the anchor image and puts it in the middle by default. This means that if you shot a sequence from left to right, the images will fill the right hand side of the panorama. There are three ways to fix this:
When you stitch a panorama the used lens settings are stored in Hugins camera and lens database. This covers the lens projection, the crop, the field of view (FOV), the distortions parameters and also the photometric parameters.
Taking the photos of the long wall (about 40 meters long and four meters high) was not done like panoramas are usually created (by rotating the camera about the lens' nodal point), but instead I took photos with the camera's focal plane parallel to the wall, moving sideways by about one meter after each shot. That way, I ended up with over 50% of overlap - for simple stitching, that might seem like overkill, but in the end, it saved my life.
The application takes a set ofoverlapping photographs of a sceneshot from a single camera location andcreates a high-resolution panoramaincorporating all the source images atfull resolution. The stitched panoramacan be saved in a wide variety offormats.
In the mean time, you can produce a Little Planet projection. Most good panoramic software should be able to produce a Little Planet image. The way it works is that it projects and warps the panorama so that it wraps around and meets with itself again. This creates a ball-shaped image, where the view-point of the photographer is in the centre such that the 360 degree view falls away in all directions as your eye moves out from the centre. To get a sense of it, here is some examples.
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