Problem with parts lifting off the BuildTak

[Dave Hylands]

For my second print on my N2, I thought I'd print a spool holder.

But it seems to be lifting from the buildtak.

The first one I printed without a raft and it started lifting after 3 or 4 layers worth.

I then cleaned the buildtak using isopropyl alcohol (the 99.9% pure stuff).

The second time I printed with a raft and the raft stayed down for a while but eventually lifted.

I didn't notice the lift until I left for a few minutes and came back to find the partially printed piece in the bottom of the printer and a "hair mess".

I have dual extruders, so I thought maybe one of the extruders was too low, so I edited the gcode and changed all of the T0's to T1's and reprinted. It's at about the same stage as the last one got and I can see that one end is lifting:

You can se the light coming underneath the part and the shadow.

I've never used BuildTak before. What types of things can I do to improve the adhesion?

The heated bed being only at 40 seems a bit low to me (On my other printer I run about 60-70 and use PEI).

The part being printed is about 4" long:

​

Here's a photo of the one that lifted without a raft:

I noticed that bits of the skirt weren't sticking very well either.

My normal approach would be to make the nozzle a bit closer, but the BuildTak site says this isn't required. So I thought I would ask for group wisdom.

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Dave Hylands
Shuswap, BC, Canada
http://www.davehylands.com

[Dave Hylands]

Oh - I forgot to mention, this is the red PLA that came with the printer.

[阿俊]

I can only speak for myself but the buildtak has been working well for me. I had problem with Nylon (almost zero adhesion) and PC (the adhesion became acceptable after bed temperature raised to 115 and closer distance to the nozzle). For PLA, I just set Z home height for a few times until the adhesion is just right at around 55 deg celcius. First layer speed 8-15 mm/s. Never had any problem if I look at the first layer closely. (I stop and reset for better adhesion)

in the latest IM, the first layer infill speed is no longer under the control of First layer Speed but in Bottom solid infill speed. So make sure you have both set slow enough (if you're using IM!)

I set Z closer for ABS. Bed set to 110 and with a brim I was able to print a 10hr job with no corner lifting.

Also with V1 hotend, even the stock PLA is suggested to print from 215 deg at least. If you are doing thicker layer height, try 225 deg.

[TobyCWood]

Dave

I HATE Buildsmack. Why? Because it releases when you do not want it to and it holds when you do not want it to. My biggest gripe with it is when you are 1 layer down and see the print is incorrect and you cancel the print... good luck getting the plastic that's one layer thick off without tearing the overpriced BuildTack. The one good thing about it on your current plate is if the plate breaks it will hold all the shards together rather then going everywhere... How to get to to work for now? 1. Get the plate a touch closer to the nozzle. 2. Go get a can or 2 of Aquanet Super extra hold unscented. 3. You can spray a thin coat on it, but do not do that with the plate in the N2 ok? If you do not want to remove the plate then spray it on your fingers or a rag and smear it on smooth. AQ on the buildtak will hold better and if you do a big print you can get it off by putting it in the plate in the freezer for about 15 minutes... that assumes you have a lot of room in your freezer. AQ holds when warm/hot and releases when cold/frozen.

[Dave Hylands]

I got the best first layer adhesion after turning my Z axis thumbscrew about 1/4 turn clockwise and increasing the bed heater to 50C.

I then rotated my part 90 degrees and was able to get it to print, but it still lifted. What's interesting is that only the back of the print lifts.

I also tried sanding the BuildTak with 400 grit sandpaper and cleaning, but I'm still seeing lifting in the back.

I have a piece of 12" x 24" 0.030" thick PEI I may try.

I also have a precision 12" straight edge, and I measure a 0.015" (0.38mm) bow in my aluminum plate (front-to-back). It's fairly flat side to side, with a slight low spot in the back left corner. You can see the gap in this photo (the straight edge was running front to back).

Measured on the BuildTak (the photo was taken on the buildtak, the low spot is about 0.25mm)

Time to try some AQ hair spray, or maybe a different build surface.

I have some 0.030" thick PEI 

Does anybody know the procedure for re-leveling the build plate?

I guess I need to make an adapter for my 2" digital depth gauge, so I can do an accurate probe.

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[Michael Hauser]

I like PEI better than BuildTak but you still have to make sure to clean it each time, have the right bed nozzle gap, and heat the bed (I'm heating it to 60º for the Raise3D PLA).

I measured the aluminum plate at 330mm x 340mm, so the 12" PEI won't fill the plate the way the stock glass with BuildTak does. I'm currently using a 12" square mirror from Ikea (unfortunately, it's actually only 11.75" square) covered with the PEI. I plan to replace it with the larger stock borosilicate glass when Raise3D has it available as a spare part (or maybe I'll get a piece that size locally). I haven't found a source for a PEI sheet around that size–the closest I've found that could be cut to that size is 24" x 24" for $88 from Grainger.

Michael

[Evan Nguyen]

You can get a 12x24 piece of PEI on eBay from Zoro tools for ~$30 after shipping. I have PEI on all my printers and already have 2 12x12 plates waiting for my N2+ delivery.