definitely getting skips...

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Charles Tsang

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Feb 7, 2016, 5:11:36 PM2/7/16
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this is using Makerbot ABS (from early 2012) - printed at 245C - 60mm/s

阿俊

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Feb 7, 2016, 8:01:28 PM2/7/16
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But this is a Y-shift. The suggestion given by Derek in the wiki is only for 3rd party plas compatibility improvement and that is for the a4988 stepper drivers on E. This skip, if happens consistently but not a random nozzle clashing hard to the model, should not be anything about it. Changing that XY driver voltage is beyond their suggestion Im sure.. they build the mechanism so presumably they did the math about what to do with those 2 drivers and I would not causally change that.

Andy Cohen

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Feb 7, 2016, 11:29:53 PM2/7/16
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I got an X shift during a print. Sat and watched and it saw it was from secondary nozzle crashes. Set the 2 nozzles to perfect even and the crashes stopped. Tried again and the 11 hour print of a complex dizingof circles bowl finished with no skips.

Charles Tsang

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Feb 8, 2016, 1:49:15 AM2/8/16
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will try that before I do anything else with the voltage.  thanks!

Charles Tsang

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Feb 8, 2016, 9:25:32 PM2/8/16
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Andy, I re-leveled my two heads and seems to have improved things for me quite a bit.  I just assumed that they were leveled enough from the factory.  thanks!


On Sunday, February 7, 2016 at 10:29:53 PM UTC-6, Andy Cohen wrote:

Andy Cohen

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Feb 8, 2016, 10:13:34 PM2/8/16
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I realized there was a problem after a number of good prints on the left side I switched to the right for a different color and it would not stick... to far from the bed.
I'm glad it worked for you... Try a dual extrusion!

Charles Tsang

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Feb 8, 2016, 10:16:43 PM2/8/16
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Andy, do you print in ABS or PLA?  I am using the left for PLA using the built in profiles and using ABS on the right. But still having a hard time fine tuning the settings.  Do you use the same retraction setting for both ABS and PLA?

I'll go find a dual extrusion model to try!

Andy Cohen

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Feb 9, 2016, 1:50:23 AM2/9/16
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I've been printing all in PLA. I am holding off on ABS. I suggest others do too. Why? Because ABS will require one to crank up the heat on the HBP to 100C and I want to wait until others have had more time to look at certain aspects of the HBP before I make it that hot. This is a first production run and and I think there are still some things to iron out. As such I am printing all sorts of objects very large and small, but I'm staying with PLA for now and keeping the HBP to no hotter then 50C. Retraction setting for ABS? I'd probably start with the same setting for PLA and tune from there. I find that I need to think that way not only between different filaments but also sometimes between different spools of the same filament!
So far the N2 is a GREAT machine.
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