Croc Clips Software

[John]

Peggycan you tell me where to find the croc-clips that you use? I did a Google search and could not find any that look like your illustration. Love your Weaving for Beginners book! I go to it often.

Strong and durable, these styling clips are specially designed for sectioning hair for blowouts or creating the perfect updo. They open wide and close firmly to hold hair securely in place and release it without pulling.

I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this before. I'm currently losing 0.3 volts for every alligator clip I use (measured the clips with a multimeter). I've never had this happen before, so I'm wondering if it could be symptomatic of a bigger problem.

There are 4 alligator clips to complete the circuit, and I'm seeing a loss of about 1.5 volts. Doesn't seem to add up. Could it be that my alligator clips were not meant to handle 12V? They're somewhat thin. I haven't had these issues with a 5V supply.

It would depend on what current your circuit is pulling, the interfaace between the clips and the circuit and the wiring to the clips. Personally with my circuits using a few 10's of milliamps, I don't notice any drop with croc clips, but no doubt there would be a drop if you were pulling a much higher current. Good ol' Ohms law.........

Nope. It's not the voltage you need to worry about: it's the current. There's a real resistance across the connection to the alligator clip, but it should be pretty small: well under a single Ohm, and close to 0. But, if the clips (or what you're clipping them to) are dirty or corroded, you could easily wind up with a couple or three Ohms of contact resistance. If your project is drawing significant current (like, say, running a motor or big solenoid), that resistance could cause a noticeable voltage drop.

When you look at the designs of connectors designed for high reiabilty and/or high current capacity, you'll see that they tend to have multiple/large points of contact, that slide along each other as you plug them in. That helps to scrape off dirt and corrosion, and decrease the chance that one dirty spot will preclude/degrade all contact. And now you know why

I would check the minimum input voltage required for the 12V regulator to operate correctly. The 1.8V difference (13.8-12) may not be sufficent to give you a stable 12V output (if you have a reverse polarity diode on input, difference may be as low as 1.1V). If the difference is less than minimum as per the regulator datasheet, voltage may drop below 12V even for modest loads.

I'm drawing about 700mA of current, and the resistance on the clips is about 1 ohm, so I guess it is somewhat realistic. Thanks for the advice. I may just have to adjust the voltage to account for the resistance, or use shorter wires with better contact.

Crocodile clips, also known as alligator clips, are spring loaded clips made from metal. Crocodile clips are typically serrated and have small teeth. Discover more about the different types of crocodile clips and their uses in our crocodile clips guide.

Crocodile clips and alligator clips are most commonly used for making temporary electrical connections. Clips can be used to connect two wires or to connect one lead directly to a device. They are incredibly useful in laboratories or experimental circuits. They are often used in educational settings to help demonstrate light bulbs, circuitry and batteries.

Crocodile clips and alligator clips can also be used for holding identification badges onto lanyards, or for dentistry bibs. They are also utilised by hobbyists to hold things together for gluing or modelling.

Larger sized crocodile clips are typically used in the automotive industry. They can also be referred to as plier clips, plier style clips or battery clamps. Plier clips can be used for jumper cables, battery chargers and welding applications. They are constructed from materials with low electrical resistance such as solid copper and are insulated.

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The crocodile clips are fully insulated with a 4 mm socket in the handle, offering an easy connection to one of our premium test leads. The toothed grip offers good contact on fine wire, with a 11 mm jaw opening limit. - Length: 57 mm - Height: 19 mm - Depth: 7 mm - Clamping limit: 7 mm

A crocodile clip or alligator clip[1] is a plier-like spring-tensioned metal clip with elongated, serrated jaws that is used for creating a temporary electrical connection. This simple mechanical device gets its name from the resemblance of its serrated jaws to the toothed jaws of a crocodile or alligator. It is used to clamp and grab onto a bare electrical cable to a lead on a battery or some other electrical component. The clip's tapered, serrated jaws are forced together by a spring to grip an object. A Clothespin or Kelvin clip is a special form of crocodile clip whose jaws are insulated from each other, allowing two isolated wires to connect to a single test point. This enables 4-wire measurement of circuits with very low resistances. When manufactured for electronics testing and evaluation, one jaw of the clip is typically permanently crimped or soldered to a wire, or is bent to form the inner tubular contact of a 4 mm (0.16 in) female banana jack, enabling quick non-permanent connection between a circuit under test and laboratory equipment or to another electrical circuit. The clip is typically covered by a plastic shroud or "boot" to prevent accidental short-circuits.

The alligator clip was first introduced to the founder of the Mueller Electric Company,[2] the primary producer of crocodile clips, by John H. Williams in 1906. It was introduced as a wire with a lightbulb in the middle, with a clip on either end of the wire. It was intended for use by electricians, and would allow them to easily tap into a live wire to power a portable light. The clip was mostly covered by rubber tubing as insulation.

Several metal clip designs working on the same principle were patented in the early 20th century. A type of a crocodile clip cutting through the wire insulation was patented by Harry Frankel from New York in 1903,[3] and another design was developed by Westinghouse Electric Corporation engineer[4] George Brown Dusinberre, who patented it in 1909,[5] and later was hired by Ralph S. Mueller & Co.[6] to refine the design, with a later version patented in 1921.[7]

Dusinberre's redesign was significantly cheaper than Williams' initial design. While Mueller approved of the design, Williams was strongly opposed to any changes to the original design. While Dusinberre offered to write Mueller as the co-inventor for his improved design while filing the patent, Mueller declined as he believed it was not his idea. [8]

The first models produced by Muller and Dusinberre's partnership, R.S. Mueller & Company, were steel coated with zinc. This combination of metals was easily soiled, so zinc was swapped out for nickel plating.[2] The success of the crocodile clips is largely credited to Charles Kettering's invention of the electric self-starter for motor vehicles. As automobile manufacturers began using this technology initially intended for Cadillacs, a need was produced for something that could connect batteries in storage to a charger.[2] Mueller produced a larger version, for automobiles, of the crocodile clips referred to commonly as jumper cables and a smaller version for motorcycles. [8]

The United States Defense Logistics Agency specifies several types of electrical clips in Commercial Item Description (CID) A-A-59466. In this CID document, crocodile clips are designated type CC, alligator clips are designated types TCx, and other types of electrical clips have various other, unique designations.[9]

General purpose crocodile clips, manufactured from bright mild steel. Large (30mm) jaw opening makes it suitable for use as a battery clip. The integral cable clamp has a secure 4mm screw fixing, and the enhanced finger grip ensures a simple operation.

The micro:bit provides just enough current to operate the SG90 microservo. This servo requires 3 connections: GND, 3V and a logic pin. In this tutorial, we will equip the servo with crocodile clips to make it easier to use. However, you could also use a shield or crocodile clips with a male connector on one end to achieve the same result.

The easiest way to connect a servo to the micro:bit is to use cables with an Alligator/Crocodile clip on one endand a Male jumper (pig tail) on the other end. You can purchase bundles these cables from various electronic resellers or easily build some as shown here.

It is very important to ensure a good connection between the 2 cables. If the connection is weak, the microservo will not receive enough current and it will not work. If you have access to a soldering iron, we strongly recommend that you solder this connection.

It is very important to ensure that there is a good connection between the 2 cables. If the connection is weak, the microservo will not receive enough current and it will not work. If you have access to a soldering iron, we strongly recommend soldering this connection.

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