1 8 Keyway
Cripin Plascencia
Shafts with keyway offer increased protection against rotation, especially for applications where the load changes direction. For shaft diameters of 6.35 mm and more, keyways are manufactured according to DIN 6885 P9.
I bought a set of wheels on eBay. Unfortunately, the seller didn't provide me with the product we both agreed to: I asked for a drive wheel with a 6mm keyway, and the seller provided me with one that is around 4.76mm wide (see pic).
I opened a dispute on eBay and received a refund. eBay support were great throughout it all. I would have been happy if the seller had offered a partial refund, or if he had just sent me the correct size wheel, but he was uncooperative and rude... At least eBay themselves saw the problem and stepped in.
Anyway - could any experts please tell me: is it possible for me to enlarge this keyway to the correct size, using only the basic tools I already have? I mean, I have files, dremel, etc. I actually have a small press, but not something huge like you guys probably have in your shops, so I'm not sure if I could broach it successfully.
A small flat file with a safe edge should work fine. Use a piece of the key stock to check fit and go slow at it. You have to work both sides of the slot evenly to keep it parallel or perpendicular to the radius
Are there any grub screws in the pulley? If so, they'll make things a bit less critical in terms of slot accuracy. The bore provides the 90-degree alignment to the shaft, the key/keyway provides the driving force and the grub screw(s) prevent axial movement.
In essence, the likelihood is that you'll end up with a slot with convex sides (unless you are good enough with a file that you'd have just done it and not bothered asking the question) and the critical part will be that the narrowest section of the slot is a good enough fit on the key to drive it without play.
If you get it pretty close, but not perfect, you can usually use Loctite (or one of the cheaper alternatives) for additional hold. I'd probably go with Loctite 290 or an equivalent "wicking" product, as it will allow you to get everything correctly aligned dry and then apply a few drops that will wick into the gaps and set up. There are other products, like Loctite 620 or 638, that are stronger retainers, but you'll need to apply these, assemble and get things aligned correctly pretty quickly if you use them. Don't expect to be able to easily remove the wheel if you Loctite it.
The right way to do this is to broach the keyway. You will need a press (a small manual one will suffice) and a broaching kit. This will size the keyway precisely. I needed to do this on my homemade disk grinder.
I've done enough filing to know I'm not good at it. Using a safe-edged file to increase the slot width should keep you from chewing up the bottom of the slot by running the safe-edge on it. If you need to deepen the slot, the safe-edge moves out of the equation and your opportunities for lousing things up increase considerably because you are working in 3 dimensions instead of 2: think flying under a bridge vs driving under a bridge.
shape the key or file it or broach it you don't need a heavy press you can even use a hand hammer its not tool steel your broaching even a drill press can be used when i broached a slot i bought the bushing to match the bore and made a broach from the same stock i wanted to fit (think it was 304 ss) i just filed/ground it till it looked like a broach you will need shims to do the dead but there easier to make than the broach
Thanks for the input. I thought about this, but figured maybe this would permanently alter the drive shaft of the motor so I could never use it with any other drive wheel... Or am I wrong here? I didn't realise that I might be able to remove the key from the drive shaft. If so then you're right, that might be the simplest solution.
I find this idea really interesting. I might be able to get some 6mm tool steel and make a broach, perhaps... I just assumed that broaches etc would need to be really precisely machined and that a massive press would be required.
You were thinking of filing down the keyway on the motor shaft? That way lies madness. If you need to remove material, do it on the wheel (for width) or the key itself (for depth), as Tim suggested (always listen to Tim!). And keys are indeed removeable. A tap with a soft mallet should do it. Be sure to wrap it in several turns of rubber band/elastic first, lest it go flying into the aether never to be seen again.
Alternatively, one could remove the key and modify it (or make a new one from scratch) to be T-shaped so that it fits the current keyways in both the motor shaft and the wheel. This is much easier with a milling machine, but key stock is cheap and easy to come by, so the risk if it is messed up is pretty low. A few scribed lines and a bit of careful filing could get you there.
Oh, ha ha ha - no way! No, I was initially intending to enlarge only the keyway on the drive wheel. I never considered reducing the size of the key itself on the motor. I figured it was a permanent part of the motor/drive shaft assembly. But some members here suggested that the key on the shaft could be filed down to fit the smaller keyway on the drive wheel, so now I'm thinking that might be an option (although to be honest I'd still prefer to alter the drive wheel itself because it's non-standard as it currently is).
I once cut a key way in a aluminum wheel with a sharp cold chisel. Crude but worked. You are correct thinking that filing the key way in your wheel the best way. It is aluminum so should go quickly. Broaching would be best but you need the tooling.
Well, I considered a lot of the options presented here. Thanks very much to everyone for your input. I took a needle file to it and after over an hour of solid filing, I enlarged the keyway enough that the wheel now fits on the motor drive shaft. I had to tap the wheel a few times with a mallet to get it to seat on the shaft fully (not looking forward to the struggle if I ever need to get it off again...) It seems pretty sturdy and doesn't look like it will wobble/vibrate. I realise that my filing job is dodgy as hell but it seems ok for now.
Edit: I definitely considered the idea of making a broach, but I figured it would be a lot of work for something I'm probably only going to use once. It would have been an interesting experiment, though.
Hi everyone i need to make keyway(don't sure thats the write word if have any germans speakers - Passfedernut).
I need to make the three holes on top and I don't know how.Does anybody have an idea?
They don't come right.So probably i don't give right dimension or something like that.Or I don't draw from the right place.
Never mind I get it should go through the center line.
Thanks any way.
System Components:
Keyway Splice Boxes are available with either a single or double row of dowel bars, straight dowels, hooks, stirrups and lap splices. They are custom fabricated to meet exact specifications and job design requirements.
STEEL CASE
The Keyway Splice Box cases are manufactured from galvanized mild steel rolled to precise dimensions. The cases are perforated on the larger face to provide an excellent bond to the first concrete pour and provide an efficient key for the subsequent pour. A wide range of case sizes are available to suit the rebar detail requirement.
END CAP SEAL
Keyway Splice Box cases are fitted with two easily removed polystyrene end caps that prohibit concrete from entering the casing. End cap seals are suitable for recycling once removed.
Keyway Splice Box Systems feature the exclusive use of the dovetail steel keyway. This keyway produces a locked joint which results in increased full out strength and a much greater resistance to shear at the joint.
This unique key design is the cross-sectional shape or configuration applied lengthwise to a key blade. If you look at a key straight on, you will see its unique shape. This shape is often referred to as the keyway or key section. The keyway can restrict the wrong keys from being inserted into the cylinder. Therefore, a cylinder with a particular keyway will only work with a key with the matching keyway.
A simplified way to think about this is to imagine the keyway as a generic shape, such as a triangle or a circle. Only circle shaped keys will work in cylinders with a circle shaped hole. However, a circle shaped key will not work in a cylinder hole shaped like a triangle.
There can be one or more milling groves in a key blade. A key blank can be cut into any number of keyways, but the correct tools are required to achieve more complex keyways. Simple keyways are often not patent-protected and can be available from common distributors.
When a keyway is specified as an Open Keyway, it means that a distributor can supply keys and cylinders with that keyway without any paperwork requirements or additional authorization. Some open keyways require manufacturer approval before a distributor can supply their products but, besides that, an open keyway can be sold right off the shelf to any customer who walks in.
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