Epson 6050ub Calibration Settings

[Do Kieu]

justbe VERY careful just plugging in settings guys. i helped with 9400. there were a lot of way off settings in it I found had to mostly all put back to factory ! lot of the settings ie brightness, contrast, really shouldn't even play wiht unless using a pattern. and actually the factory 0 is probably pretty good if just looking by eye.

A calibration is really dependant on room and setup as well as determines final image. There is a difference between calibrating and plugging in settings. you can't calibrate a projector by plugging in settings. need to calibrate it in my opinion. not to say there are some basics cant do. but its minimal in my opinion need to play with or should unless doing a full calibration.

You'll find with new lamps that they don't drift down slowly to lesser light output, they will put out high lumens and then you will have a sudden drop to a lot less, the lesser output will be your new norm, it from then on slowly drift downward RE light output, you want to wait until the PJ is at this state before calibration, the first big drop from new is not a subtle drop, it is very noticeable when it happens.

You can still use your calibration software finer Grey scale adjustments [I think ChromaPure has 20 point adjustment] it will just mean a bit [lot] more twoing and frowing between setting to get it correct, as your PJ's adjustments are going to be very coarse compared to other PJ's/TV with 20+ point adjustment.

Decide if the Iris closed [Auto] gives better Black levels / contrast compared to fully open, if you feel it looks better with the Iris closed, then have your Iris closed when doing all metering / calibration

Thanks Tweaky, I haven't done a HDR calibration before so I can feel some time in the bat cave scratching my head coming up. PITA about the 8 point, at least they could have provided 10 point; somewhat disappointing.

TBH the I wouldn't bother doing a HDR calibration, it's only worth doing if you have a Native 4K PJ, even doing it for my 4K Panasonic was barely noticeable, reason being that there is no 'Standard' RE: NIT's [Light output] for UHDR to measure at.

Also, if going the extra yard for UHDR calibration, you have to use the actual machine you are going to use for that 4K Disc playback.....I found that my Panasonic 4k Disc player sends out a over vivid signal, colours can be garish....if I use the same 4k disc player to calibrate colour, then that garishness can be neutralized

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The one way we have found to at least give an indication of the light performance is to compare the projectors at the same distance of a typical home theater setup, at the same image size, and with the same content. First we tested the HDR maximum brightness with individually calibrated settings using both calibration test signals and color meters so the white balance was at D65 (the industry standard).

The easiest color for most people to see is red. While most traditional TVs and many projectors portray red as kind of an orange-red, a wide color gamut can give us a very deep, rich red like we see in a red rose or brilliant red sports car. The other colors that become more noticeable with wide color gamut are the greens, yellows, and cyans or teal colors. The adoption of 4K UHD HDR Blu-ray discs, with their wide color capability and 10-bit gradation, has opened up a new era of quality home entertainment, and in some cases, even exceeded many of the commercial movie theaters. The goal of wide color is called BT2020 and is a new standard which most 4K HDR displays are now trying to reach (in the higher end models). Since the BT2020 standard is not currently easy to reach, there is a motion picture standard called DCI P3 which is being used by most studios to grade inside the BT2020 standard.

The full REC709 color standard for HD can look very good and often times is mistaken for wide color gamut if brightness and contrast are also present, as a very good image can be portrayed. The reality is that most current TVs and many projectors do not even do the full REC709 gamut, so when we see it done properly we are often times fooled into thinking it is wide color. Both these projectors did a very good job of covering, and in some areas exceeding, the REC 709 standard.

As you can see in the above charts, the Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB, with its color filter in place (digital cinema), extends the red, green, blue and cyans to a richer and more accurate P3 color gamut. This extra color comes at a price, however. We found that in taking the Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB to its maximum lamp mode (HIGH) it could not equal the JVC LX-NZ3 in its lowest mode (Variable Low). In fact, because the side-by-side images looked so different (in terms of brightness), the color filter against the JVC LX-NZ3 actually made it look worse. We did find that putting the Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB in the Middle lamp mode and Bright Cinema mode gave us a very good side-by-side comparison, even though we were giving up some of the wide color. If you have not watched the online video when we did this, you may want to take a look and see what you think as we do show it both ways. Here is the link.

Whenever you want to do a side-by-side comparison of color and contrast, you really want to have the projectors as close as possible to the same brightness. With the color filter off in the Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB, and the JVC LX-NZ3 in the variable low laser position, we were able to then do a good series of actual comparisons. Had the Epson been able to keep its brightness up with the color filter in place, many of the scenes might have looked better, or more vibrant, than what we saw here. That being said, it should be noted that lamp-based projectors will lose even more in brightness in the first couple of hundred hours of use by as much as 20-30%. So the option of using the color filter in this lamp-based projector would be even less of an option over time if higher brightness was needed.

Overview -- With 2600 lumens of brightness for both white light and colors, the 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector is the first Epson Home Cinema series projector to offer 4K/60p playback along with HDR10, a 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio, and a 100% DCI P3 color space reproduction. This projector may not be a true 4K device, but its excellent optics, sumptuous colors, immersive 3D, and strong contrast make it a very impressive machine overall and Highly Recommended for anyone looking for a projector solution that doesn't cost as much as JVC and Sony's offerings.

Let's get two big things out of the way upfront. Yes, Epson's current Home and Pro Cinema Projectors don't display 8 million pixels despite 4K/60p HDR10 compatibility and "4K UHD" in the product name. Their systems still use a diagonal pixel-shifting technology that reveals approximately 4 million pixels on your screen. It's effectively Full HD x 2.

I know this ruffles a few feathers, but here's the honest truth: Epson's pixel-shifting projectors (the 4050 and above) outperform every single native 4K projector I've tested under $3,000. Why? Most of them are DLP projectors and, while they project 8M pixels from native 4K chips, they have mediocre colors, poor contrast, and their optics -- the physical glass -- are cheap. Which makes sense, of course, they're, generally speaking, budget projectors.

The other thing we should chat about, briefly, is the 4K TVs versus PROJECTORS debate. Projectors like the Epson 5050UB don't have the same image quality as an LG OLED or VIZIO P Series Quantum X LCD. Especially if your room has ambient light issues. Conversely, at this price-point, 4K TVs don't have that big screen immersion factor. You can snag a 75-inch TV for $2,000-4,000, but that's still a lot smaller than 100-150 inches.

My point? There's no such thing as a perfect display unless your pockets are deep. Going in, you're going to have to make a compromise. Today, we hope to answer the question, is stepping up to a 100+ inch screen worth losing a feature like Dolby Vision and imperfect-but-still-solid black levels?

With the Epson 5050UB, I think the answer is yes, but it MSRPs for $500 more than the model it replaced despite sharing almost identical visual performance capabilities, which makes it harder to recommend because it's less of a bargain than the 5040UB. Still, if you love watching 4K, 3D, and HD movies on the big screen, you want 4K/60p compatibility for gaming or streaming devices, and you can control the light in your room, the 5050UB produces excellent imagery.

The 6050UB is Epson's Pro Cinema version of the 5050. While light output remains at 2600 lumens, contrast jumps to 1.2M:1 while the kit includes an extra lamp, longer warranty, and a darker case. I believe the MSRP is around $4,000, but this projector is only available through Epson's pro installer network.

Setting up an Epson 5050UB Home Cinema projector is easy and intuitive if you're already running a projector. With your screen mounted (or a living room wall emptied and painted white), you can then set the 5050 on a shelf or mount it to your ceiling, connect your HDMI cable, and turn it on.

For the HDMI cable itself, make sure you have a new High Speed rated cable or you will have HDMI handshake and dropout issues which, with HDCP 2.2 needed to make everything work, could shut you down pretty quickly.

From there, I typically dive into the Epson Menu system to turn off motion interpolation, set AutoIris to High (for best contrast ratio), do any sort of calibration. That said, if you're planning to calibrate, let the projector break in first before making any permanent changes. You can also set the projector's lamp brightness (High, Normal, ECO), with High offering the most performance at a cost of room noise, heat, and lamp life.

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