Bus Stop Trailer
Stephaine Zitzow
The low profile Trailer Adapter Kit hardware is permanently mounted to the floor of your trailer, and the Pit Stop is ready to be attached whenever you need to haul your motorcycle. The Pit Stop/Trailer Stop is our best selling and most versatile wheel chock. It can be used every day in your garage to hold your bike upright to take up less space, to check fluids, or to service it. You can also place the Pit Stop outside on the driveway to wash and detail your motorcycle.
This Condor Pit Stop/Trailer Stop & Trailer Adaptor Kit product warranty extends to the original consumer purchaser of the product. All illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the latest product information available at the time of printing. Technical Components Development & Design, Inc. reserves the right to make changes at any time, without notice, in color, materials, equipment, options, specifications, and models. Models may be shown with optional equipment. Further information may be obtained by contacting Technical Components Development & Design, Inc. at (815) 754-7418.
Our warranty for your product will not cover abnormal wear of parts, damage resulting from negligent use or misuse of the product, use contrary to operating instructions, or disassembly, repair, or alteration by any person other than an authorized service station. We shall not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages for breach of by express or implied warranty on your product.
15 day return policy applies. Merchandise may be returned within 15 days of purchase. Merchandise must be unused and in its original packaging. Customer pays for freight return. Credit is given upon inspection of returned goods. A 15 percent re-stocking fee applies to all returned merchandise.
Some states do not allow limitations on how long any implied warranty lasts or the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages. So the above limitation may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which may vary from state to state.
Why not get a gym membership at a 24 hour gym that usually has parking? My friend is regional and goes to LA Fitness. He says they are 24/7 are usually in mall type of parking areas and he can shower there too. Not sure about Planet Fitness. But I'm sure you can find others.
Usually refers to a driver hauling freight within one particular region of the country. You might be in the "Southeast Regional Division" or "Midwest Regional". Regional route drivers often get home on the weekends which is one of the main appeals for this type of route.
Adn for gods sake - don't lose your keys. These things are a bear to get off - FOR A REASON - they keep your trailer from getting stolen (or at least easily stolen). Some of the larger companies that "issue" (make you buy) a set of locks, have only a few "series" of locks (that is to say many of them are "keyed alike" - like "fleet locks").
Just ask the fuel desk if you can drop a trailer. I do it on occasion. The Petro in Las Vegas will allow it, just have to sign it in their book and let them know when your back under it. I needed to go to the bank and hit a Walmart. The TA in Eugene let me drop a trailer for the day I just had to pay $11 for one of the reserved spots. I've also made quick runs 30 minutes or less without asking, I dropped my trailer in the back row and did what I needed to do. Although I don't recommend that but I have done it a few times.
Did you know you can fill out one quick form here on TruckingTruth and apply to several companies at once for paid CDL training? Seriously! The application only takes one minute. You will speak with recruiters today. There is no obligation whatsoever. Learn more and apply here:
As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!
Might be a long shot on this forum, but I have a 2010 f150 that won't light the stop lamps or signals on my trailer. The running lights work, reverse lights work. From my googling the past few days, it looks like there is a single 20 amp fuse and 2 relays that control these lights. I replaced the fuse, which was blown, and still no dice. I can hear the relays clicking, so they're probably good? Anyway, I'm not getting 12v at the pins on the trailer plug. I know the trailer is good because everything worked on my last truck. Any help?
Get up under the harness where they connect the trailer light outputs from the taillights make sure all the connections are good. Get a multimeter and work your way back up the system to see where the issue is. If it is a Kremlin, you could always just pull new wires directly off taillight leads and just bypass the stuff that is not working. Assuming there working on the truck.
Yes, new to me truck. My research has indicated fuse 45 under the hood in the fuse/relay box on top of the radiator. There is no manual in the truck, and so far I haven't seen anything relating to the kick panel fuses. I might be wrong, but I can't see them engineering a fuse to fees 2 relays only to use 2 more fuses after that? Thanks though, at least I can research it.
@Bozboat where is that one supposed to go? The diagrams I have found that seem to match up with my truck's fuse layout doesn't have a fuse that style that corresponds to the trailer tow package. Do you remember the slot #?
73 in my box is empty. I found a manual online for supposedly a 2010 model. 73 is not used, and slot 45 is the 20A labeled trailer tow stop turn relay feed. Maybe they changed the configuration sometime between 2010 and newer. I guess I could put a fuse in there and see if anything happens.
Yes, already did that. It was blown, I replaced it, and still nothing. The relays might be bad, but I hear them clicking when the signals are on. I guess the only way to be 100% sure would be to test with a known working set of relays.
I finally got around to pulling those 2 fuses. Both were still good. I'm going to be checking the trailer for a short. I only have a 2 mile tow to the ramp, but I've been towing without lights for awhile.
You said originally that you didn't have 12V at those particular pins. Did you meter it, or were you just assuming since they weren't lighting on the trailer. If you metered it and don't have the voltage, there's no reason to be looking at the trailer as the problems on truck side. If you do, then by all means check the trailer. I took a peek at your manual though, and looks like the right/stop and left/stop fuses are #37 and #38 in the fuse block under the hood, not the kick panel for your year. If those aren't the ones you checked, I'd start by checking there.
He said he didn't have 12V on the truck side, so he needs to start at the truck - be it fuses or wiring. Not to say that there isn't a short in the trailer wiring that blew the fuses, but he needs to have power on the truck side first.
All good suggestions. Yes, I need to make sure I am getting the 12v on all necessary pins before testing a trailer. I also agree that I need to test with a known good trailer... I'll have to go to my buddy's house and check with his. Maybe I should hook mine up to his vehicle and see if a fuse pops.
You're right, misread it. Looks like fuse 45 for that one - which you've already replaced. Are any of the relays in the fuse box the same as the trailer light ones? If so, swap a known good one in and test it out to figure out if your relays are cooked. It's possible whatever took out your fuse may have gotten the relays - otherwise, you'll need to start tracing wires - and I'd start at the back of the trailer light plug first. One other question, does your truck have separate plugs for 4-pin versus 7-pin? If so, have you metered both for voltage?
64591212e2