The New World species have now been reclassified in the genera Almutaster, Canadanthus, Doellingeria, Eucephalus, Eurybia, Ionactis, Oligoneuron, Oreostemma, Sericocarpus and Symphyotrichum, though all are treated within the same tribe, Astereae. The "China aster" is in the related genus Callistephus. Regardless of the taxonomic change, most are still widely referred to as "asters", or "Michaelmas daisies", because of their typical blooming period.
One of the few flowers left around Michaelmas in the British Isles is the Michaelmas daisy (another name for asters), hence the rhyme: "The Michaelmas daisies, among dead weeds, Bloom for St Michael's valorous deeds..."[15]
An additional global product is now available: the ASTER Water Body Dataset (ASTWBD). This raster product identifies all water bodies as either ocean, river, or lake. Each GDEM tile has a corresponding Water Body tile.The GDEM and ASTWBD are available for download from NASA Earthdata and Japan Space Systems.This ASTER product is available at no charge for any user pursuant to an agreement between METI and NASA. For more information about the GDEM, see the Validation Report: ASTER GDEM V2 Validation Summary Report.
Cold-hardy perennials with daisy-like flowers, aster flowers are the pollinator stars of the garden from late summer through fall. Growing 1 to 6 feet tall, depending on variety, these upright flowering plants bear cheerful star-shaped flower heads ranging from purple to white to blue.
Even though there are more than 600 aster species, the two most commonly encountered asters in home gardening are the New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) and the New York aster (S. novi-belgii). Several years ago, the Aster genus was split into multiple genera. Aster now covers most European and Asian asters, while those native to North America belong to Symphyotrichum.
Asters prefer areas with cool, moist summers and cool nights in sites with full to partial sun. In warmer climates, asters do not like the hot midday sun. Soil should be moist but well-drained and loamy. Wet clay soil will lead to root rot, and dry sandy soil will lead to plant wilt. Mix 2 to 3 inches of compost into the soil before planting.
The most common asters available in North America are the New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) and the New York aster (Symphyotrichum novi-belgii). Both of these plants are native to North America and are great flowers for pollinators. We recommend planting a native species of aster over a non-native species when possible, so talk with your local Cooperative Extension or garden center about which species are best suited to your area. Look for varieties with disease resistance.
I challenge this statement: "Asters prefer areas with cool, moist summers and cool nights in sites with full to partial sun." While the native asters in the yard did not do that well during drought conditions in the northeast, the ultra-hot weather this year, combined with higher rainfall produced tall plants with ample blossoms.
While asters prefer cooler conditions that does not mean the plants can not survive and even thrive during stretches of hotter conditions, especially once they are established. The flowers do best when the temperatures are cooler in the late summer and fall. Since asters prefer moist soil, it is important that they receive enough water/precipitation to keep them growing during hot and/or dry stretches.
This 1,181-acre nature preserve includes a ridge of endemic and imperiled scrub habitats surrounded by pine flatwoods and pockets of wet prairie, hardwood swamp, and freshwater marsh. Rare species found here include the Florida goldenaster and Florida Scrub Jay. The marked hiking trail is a 3-mile loop, much of it sandy and sunny. Golden Aster Scrub Nature Preserve was purchased by Hillsborough County through the Jan K. Platt Environmental Lands Acquisition and Protection Program (ELAPP) in 1995.
Reportedly, there are over 250 different types of asters growing all over the world. Botanists have reclassified this genus after studying the plant's morphology and DNA. The Aster genus is restricted to plants native to Europe and Asia. The species native to North America belong to two other genera, Symphyotrichum and Eurybia. The common name remains Aster for all the genera.
Aster yellows is a viral-like disease caused by a phytoplasma (formerly called a mycoplasma-like organism). Insects that suck the sap of plants, especially the aster leafhopper, vector the disease. Aster leafhoppers are insects that annually migrate northward from their winter home in areas along the Gulf of Mexico. Aster yellows is a disease that affects over 300 species of plants, including ornamentals such as aster, coneflower, zinnia, marigold, chrysanthemum, petunia, and snapdragon. Edibles affected include lettuce, carrot, tomato, and celery. Grasses and grains also are hosts. Weeds that may harbor the disease include plantain, dandelion, and other broad-leafed weeds.
The spread of aster yellows is worse in cool, wet summers. Hot dry weather is not favorable for either the phytoplasma or the leafhopper. As with many disease and pest problems, diagnosis is perhaps the most important factor in controlling aster yellows.
A somewhat similar appearing problem on coneflowers is caused by an eriophyid mite. Experts are still sorting this problem out but the lower pictures on this page may be caused by this yet unnamed eriophyid mite. At present the common name used for this disorder is coneflower rosette mite. It may be a controllable problem through sanitation practices (disposal of all affected flowers as they appear and all foliage in the fall) unlike aster yellows for which there is no cure other than to destroy infected plants.
Chlorosis, yellowing of the leaves while the veins remain green, is a major symptom of aster yellows. Growth slows down and leaves may be smaller and more narrow than usual. Foliage is sometimes curled. Flowers may be deformed and exhibit bizarre tufts of deformed leaves inside the flower or in place of the flower. Flowers may not produce seeds. The symptoms of the disease will often differ depending upon what species is infected. For instance, carrot roots may be bitter and hairy while lettuce may show pink or tan spots and have twisted inner leaves.
1. Remove diseased plants. Once a plant is infected with aster yellows, it is a lost cause since the disease is incurable. Early diagnosis and prompt removal of infected plants may help reduce the spread of the disease. Although the disease itself is not fatal to the plant, its presence makes it impossible for a plant to fulfill its intended role in the garden.
2. Plant less susceptible plant species. Controlling aster yellows is difficult. As long as infected leafhoppers are around, they can infect plants. A practical way to avoid having problems with this disease is to grow plants that are not as susceptible to aster yellows. Verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geranium, cockscomb, and impatiens are among the least susceptible plants.
Planting: Plant asters anytime during the growing season. In the South, spring and fall are best to allow the plant to get established before severe hot or cold weather. In the North, plant anytime up to early fall. This will allow the roots to get established before winter.
Trimming & Pruning: Asters don't require pruning. However, you can keep taller varieties short and bushy by pinching the tops in early June in the North and late June in the South. Remove the top few inches of growth and the aster plant will respond with more side shoots and a bushier plant. Don't pinch the new growth after early July or you'll be removing flower buds for the fall. The shorter, bushier plant may not require staking or caging.
Dividing & Transplanting: The easiest way to propagate asters is to take a division in spring. This will serve a double purpose of creating new plants to share with friends and reducing the size of an overgrown plant. Asters should be divided every 3 to 4 years so they don't get too large. Spring is also the best time to move an existing aster to a new location. In spring, after the ground thaws and plants start to grow, dig up the aster plant and make 6 to 8-inch diameter divisions with a group of leaves and roots. If you want to create just a few divisions, you can separate out pieces from the mother plant along the edge of the root ball, leaving the main plant intact. Replant the division immediately and keep well-watered.
Pests/ Disease: The biggest pest of asters is powdery mildew disease. This fungal disease causes the leaves to turn white, then yellow and die from midsummer to fall. If severe, it will defoliate the plant and reduce flowering. The best solution to powdery mildew is to grow resistant aster varieties such as 'Winston Churchill' and 'Blue Lake' New York asters, and 'Bluebird' smooth aster. To prevent powdery mildew from getting started, set plants further apart, thin stems from crowded plants in spring and use preventive sprays. Bacillus subtilis is a bacterial spray that fights fungus and works to control mildew before it takes over. You can also use a baking soda solution of 1 tablespoon of baking soda mixed with one gallon of water with a dash of liquid soap. Again, spray early in the season to prevent powdery mildew from taking hold.
Aster flowers (Aster spp.) add color to the autumn landscape while offering beauty with little work when caring for asters. Growing asters often bloom in late summer and fall, but the Alpine aster offers blooms in spring. Learning how to grow aster is easy and rewarding when the star-shaped flowers bloom in the landscape.
Aster flowers may reach 3 to 4 feet (1 m.) or can be compact and mounding as with the Alpine type. Six-hundred or more varieties of aster exist. Pair asters in the natural garden with coneflowers and goldenrod for a striking display. Caring for asters can include staking and/or pruning taller types for a bushier and more compact plant.
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