Next, select the arrow to the right of the speaker volume slider to open a list of audio devices connected to your computer. The tool tip should display as Manage audio devices when hovering over the arrow.
Hardware problems can be caused by outdated or malfunctioning drivers. Make sure your audio driver is up to date and update it if needed. If that doesn't work, try uninstalling the audio driver (it will reinstall automatically). If that doesn't work, try using the generic audio driver that comes with Windows. If you're having audio issues after installing updates, try rolling back your audio driver.
Select and hold (or right-click) the listing for your sound card or audio device, such as headphones or speakers, select Update driver, then select Search automatically for drivers. Follow the instructions to complete the update.
Select and hold (or right-click) the listing for your sound card or audio device, then select Update driver > Browse my computer for drivers > Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer.
When Microsoft installs updates on your system, we create a system restore point in case problems arise. Try restoring from that point and see if that fixes your sound problems. For more info, see "Restore from a system restore point" in Recovery options in Windows.
Select and hold (or right-click) the listing for your sound card or audio device, such as headphones or speakers, select Update driver, then select Search automatically for updated driver software. Follow the instructions to complete the update.
Select and hold (or right-click) the listing for your sound card or audio device, then select Update driver > Browse my computer for drivers > Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.
I've been having periodic BSODs on my ZBook Studio x360 G5 and thought to update the BIOS and firmware of my laptop and dock. The BIOS updated fine but the dock was having trouble connecting to the Thunderbolt Controller. After a restart, it finally connected, but the laptop BSODed in the middle of the Base Microcontroller update.
Now when I run the firmware update, the DisplayPort Hub doesn't display a version, even though the update said it installed successfully on the first round, and the Thunderbolt Controller says "Device driver missing. Firmware cannot be installed." My external monitor is also not showing up in Device Manager.
I used the HP Image Assistant to download and update the drivers, BIOS, and dock firmware. The ReleaseNotes.txt mentions checking the drivers for the graphics and Thunderbolt devices. I couldn't find the graphics driver in Device Manager even when viewing hidden devices. Thunderbolt Controller is at a new version than what's specified, though it's showing as disconnected because I had to find it by viewing hidden devices.
After many hours of searching I finally found your hint. But even to start the controller firmware update tool from the Dock update package folder didn't work at the beginning because it couldn't find the controller too.
I just bought a Thunderbolt G2 Dock with Audio module to use with my HP Elitebook x360 1030 G3 with Windows 10 (64bit version). For whatever reason I cannot access the microphone and the speakers of the Dock. The On/Off button works and also changing the speakers volume with the keys on the front. UBS-C and other interfaces work as well (I have mouse/keyboard connected).
Here you can download four MP3 files that help you to evaluate the low frequency reproduction in your audio system. These signals are equally suitable for full-bandwidth monitors and subwoofer systems. The signal that contains only one frequency is called a tone.
First of the test signals boink.mp3 is a collection of tones at individual frequencies. Each of them is 10 cycles long. The frequencies in this signal are 16, 18, 20, 22, 26, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 120 and 150Hz. There is a little space between the tones to enable your audio system to build up its forces. As you play this signal pay attention to the purity of the tone. The tone should be clean and all tones should have the same level. If you hear any distortion, noises or rattling check your sound system and your room. The source may be your loudspeakers but also something resonating in your listening room or even the audio equipment feeding the loudspeakers. This signal is particularly useful for testing the output capacity of your system because the signal is not continuous, stressing your audio system similar to actual music and yet the signal is analytical and well defined. Start from a low sound level and work up towards higher levels. Notice any changes.
The second test tone sweep1.mp3 contains a tone that changes linearly in frequency from 10Hz to 150Hz. The level of the signal remains constant. Use this signal to check at what frequency the sound in your audio system becomes audible, how precisely the sound level remains constant over frequency and to locate any clear dips (anti-resonances) and peaks (resonances) in level at your listening location. Also you can locate problematic structures in your room, such as resonating curtain rails or furniture rattling at certain frequencies.
The third signal pink.mp3 contains noise. This 'Pink' noise has a particular characteristic (equal power per octave, power density decreases 3dB per octave) that makes all frequencies in the noise equally audible and therefore the pink noise can reveal very small frequency response differences effectively. It is an excellent signal for comparing the effect of any change you introduce in your sound system in the A/B test fashion. It has a spectrum similar to actual musical signal, and stresses your sound system similarly. Also, you can use this signal together with an octave-band or a third-octave-band real time analyzer to calibrate your sound system.
The fourth signal 85Hz_sinewave.mp3 contains a tone for adjusting the phase of a Genelec subwoofer. Some subwoofer models do not feature a built-in test tone generator, so an 85 Hz test tone is useful to help set the phase adjustment correctly. The instructions for its use can be found in the subwoofer operating manuals and Quick Setup Guide. This is a full scale signal, so please turn the volume down before starting the test.
I have experimented with REW (Room EQ Wizard) and room correction, and how to apply it in Roon, and decided to write a guide about it. This is what produced best result for me (I sit in a small room with concrete walls), but the way I did it should work well in bigger rooms and for different walls as well. This guide assumes you have a 2.0 or 2.1 system, and works best if you have a specific listening position and you sit in the middle of the sound, with an equal distance to left and right speaker. By the way, 2.1 systems is measured just like a 2.0 system, with the sub-woofer active during the left/right speaker measurement.
Some of you might wonder why not use the normal way of placing the microphone where your head normally is, and move away while doing the measurement. For me, that way produced a worse result, probably because I sit in a small room and the effect my body and head has on the sound waves becomes relative big. Using sweeps will also give false indications of higher frequencies needed adjustment, due to how short waves the higher frequencies has, and generally speaking a less reliable result. Having said that, if you prefer to use sweeps that do so, both way works.
Updated the guide to generate stereo wav files instead of mono (step 14), if generating mono files I think you also need to write .cfg convolution files, which should not be needed when using stereo wav files (maybe some Roon tech guy an confirm this?).
It must be my lack of tech knowledge, but I get the impression that (this way of) room correction resembles adjusting the EQ (a bit less/more bass, treble etcetera), thus changing the balance the producers and artists have intended. I prefer to hear my music as pure and as close to the way it was recorded. Will room correction improve or deteriorate the original recording balance?
Take the below pics, first is my left speaker and right speaker in my room without any room correction, the last picture is after all adjustments are done (as described in this guide). The sound wave should be close to the blue target line, and I am pretty sure no artists intended it to sound like it does for me without any room corrections (i.e. the first 2 pictures)
Yes, its basically a glorified equalizer, but with very high resolution and ways to decide the steepness of a modification ( the Q value). But unlike old analog equalizers, it works on a digital stream which is handled and modified by Roon in various ways (for example volume leveling), and then converted to an analog signal by your DAC.
Its the data for this equalizer that REW can auto-generate (doing it manually is very hard due to the Q value), and then you can either manually input the data into Roon PEQ or generate wav files for the Roon convolution engine.
Think of the most advanced EQ you can imagine - not only adjusting frequencies throughout the entire audible spectrum (or the parts you specify), but also dealing with reflections (think echos and reverberation from your room).
The easiest mistake to do when doing room correction is if you do one measurement sweep where your head is, and then make REW generate filters from 20 Hz to 20k Hz. Chances are, voices, electric guitars etc will sound very strange after that. The reason for this is that at higher frequency, the sound waves are very short so a few cm difference in measure position might make a big difference, which makes it very easy to overcompensate.
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