Nes S-video Mod

[Emmaline]

Prettysure this is a dumb question but I just acquired a Sega Genesis 2 and was looking to acquire an s-video cable but the one seller on Ebay says Sega Genesis 1 in the listing. Does it matter? Shouldn't it work regardless? I really don't think it does. Eventually I plan to hook up with RGB once I have my Framemeister but thought I'd use s-video until then.

A model 1 s-video will not work on a model 2. The model 2 output connector is much smaller than the model 1. I am not sure a model 2 has an s-video, but I buy RWY composite cables for model 2 systems, 1000 times better than shitty r/f.

Yeah, but unless your CRT TV has component input, that's pretty useless if it forces you to use an HDTV. If you still have a CRT lying around, use the best input it has (component, s-video, then composite).

I have a CRT but the best input it has is composite. Once I have the Framemeister I will primarily be playing on a modern TV. I'm not going to buy a less expensive upscaler for the interim since the composite is playable for now. Hopefully it will allow me to appreciate spending the money on the Framemeister that much more when it finally arrives. I would have considered s-video if it was a matter of just buying a cable.

The Genesis doesnt put out a native s-video signal. I recommend getting a SCART RGB cable and a a RGB to component converter. Shineybow makes a very high quality RGB to component converter. If your TV doesnt have a component input and you want to go the S-video route Keene sells a RGB scart to s-video converter. I have one and it works great.

It's interesting to have the S-Video option for Genesis games even if you have access to a RGB-to-Component solution.

You may prefer the look of several games over S-Video given that many of its games rely on dithered patterns, which usually don't look as nice with the added image definition that SCART/Component provides.

Same mod I was originally making but I would use pots instead of actual resistors because I found that the results would vary from TV to TV. Especially when using converters to modern HDTVs. This is also the same kit that Console5 sells and they offer it both with the static resistors and with the pots to adjust it as well.

You may prefer the look of several games over S-Video given that many of its games rely on dithered patterns, which usually don't look as nice with the added image definition that SCART/Component provides.

Yes, I have both component and s-video installed in the back of my Genesis and I don't see much of a difference between them. I care more about picture sharpness than whatever color benefits the RGB provides. I have a 14 inch PVM back at my parents house that I couldn't bring with me when I moved, but I never bothered using the RGB inputs in it. I just used the s-video which was plenty good enough and didn't require any special cables and adapters.

If you've been around a while, you may recall the days when s-video was the next new thing, featured on the latest laserdisk players, S-VHS decks and satellite receivers. S-Video delivers better color and resolution than one-wire "composite" video by separating the luminance (brightness) and chrominance (color) elements of the signal, but is inferior to three-wire "component" video. While s-video is surely not the popular product it once was, we still have the cable and connectors and still produce high-quality s-video assemblies for those who need them. We offer two types of S-Video Cables: a flexible single cable made with S-Video mini-coax, for runs up to 50 feet, and S-Video "Breakout" cable sets, for longer runs where only the lowest-loss performance will do.

S-video cable presents a couple of basic problems, both related to size. Because s-video cable needs to be small to maintain high flexibility (so that the mini-DIN plugs, which have no grip mechanism, won't pry themselves out of equipment jacks) and to fit the limited available cable entry room in a mini-DIN connector, the tolerances in s-video cable typically aren't very tight--and the shielding often isn't what it should be. With this in mind, we decided to custom-design our own s-video cable; we asked Belden to build us a cable the same size as its standard 1808A s-video cable, but with enhancements. First, we changed the center conductor from stranded to solid, to help control impedance better. Second, to further contribute to impedance control and dramatically improve noise rejection, we changed the shield configuration completely; where 1808A has a "serve" shield and no foil, our design has a 100% coverage foil layer and a 90% coverage tinned copper braid. The result, which we call the YC-2 S-video cable, has improved impedance tolerance (+/-3 ohms, as compared to the typical +/-5 ohms) and improved shield effectiveness as compared with typical stock s-video cables.

After reviewing many samples of 4-pin mini-DIN s-video plugs from a variety of manufacturers, we've had these s-video plugs made to our requirements. The pin body is strong, and the pins are as bend-resistant and migration-resistant as any we can find. Strain relief on the cable is highly effective, provided by a robust internal cable clamp which grips right in to the cable jacket, taking the stress of bending and pulling entirely off the solder joints. The pins and the outer contact surface are all gold-plated for solid, no-corrosion contact. We cut, terminate and test all of our s-video cables in our own shop in Seattle, Washington.

Mini-coax, if it's built right, is just great for conveying video signals--but it does result in higher attenuation than you'd get from a full-sized coax. If you need to run S-Video over distances greater than fifty feet, or if you are just the sort of person who can't stand using mini-coax, take a look at our "breakout" cables.

No amount of wedging and squeezing will get two full-sized coax cables into a mini-DIN plug, and even if it could, the pins are so small that you'd have to strip away most of the braid just to get something small enough to solder. The answer to the problem is simple: at each end of the S-Video run is a breakout adapter, with a mini-DIN at one end and two female BNC connectors at the other. Our breakout adapters are custom-made for us by AVLink; yes, we could make them ourselves, but it would cost more and, given that the breakout connectors run about six inches long, it's unlikely that any perceptible difference in video quality would result. Between these breakout connectors, we run our favorite high-bandwidth precision video coax: Belden 1694A, terminated with Canare BNC plugs (if you prefer another coax, write for a price quote). Instead of a mini-coax, your S-Video signals travel through full-sized, low-loss, high-bandwidth coax, suitable for runs of any length.

Just fill in your cable length in feet in the appropriate form below, select any applicable options, and the price will display to the right. To purchase, click "add to cart." To see prices for these cables in a variety of lengths, see our S-Video Pricing Table.

Before I discuss the results, here is a brief review of the 3 types of cables. Composite video cables are RCA type connectors colored yellow. Often you find them attached to a red and a white RCA connector. Only the yellow cable carries the video signal. The red and white cables carry the stereo audio signal. S-video video cables consist of 4 pins inside a circular metal shield. Two pins are grounds, 1 pin carries the intensity signal and the other carries the color signal. Component video cables have 3 RCA type connectors; 1 carries the red signal, 1 carries the blue signal, and 1 carries the green signal 1 carries the luminance (Y), 1 carries the blue difference (Cb), and 1 carries the red difference (Cr) (more info here, thanks Mick for pointing out my mistake). S-video and component also need an audio feed which is often the red/white RCA cables like pictured below with the composite cable.

With the DVD player, there are noticeable differences among the 3 cables in the quality of the displayed test image. The pinkish circles in the images below are artifacts of taking a photo of an LCD screen and do not appear in real life. The component is clearly the best followed by the s-video, which is pretty good, followed by the composite. You can see clear color bleed in the test image using the composite cable, some color bleed using the s-video cable, and virtually no color bleed using the component cable. While watching an actual movie, component and s-video are far superior to composite. Component and s-video are actually pretty close in quality except for 2 differences. Component seems to provide slightly brighter colors but the biggest difference between the 2 is in their abilities to display text, or any other hard edge. The component cable really excels in these situations and text looks really nice with the component cable.

The Wii would not play the DVD so I loaded the test image into the Photo Channel on the Wii. Again, there are noticeable differences in the picture quality of he 3 cables. Component is the best, followed by s-video, then composite. You can see the biggest difference in the alternating black and white concentric circles in the test image.

Thank you. Tried to connect a 2013 HDMI capable VCR/DVD combo player/recorder to a 2013 HDMI capable digital TV. Both worked fine independently, but blew the fuse on the VCR when connected via HDMI. So, needed to figure out the multi-cable connection options.

Been years since I did that. Too many choices ?

Now I can talk the talk and get these two happily connected.

THANK YOU!

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