alsa-ucm-conf is installed. I really think it is an ACPI problem, the VMs just don't have the capabilities of dom0.
Connecting the audio controller (Multimedia audio controller [0401]: Intel Corporation Meteor Lake-P HD Audio Controller [8086:7e28] (rev 20)) to the audio VM says:
[ 3.335463] sof-audio-pci-intel-mtl 0000:00:09.0: NHLT table not found
[ 3.335661] sof-audio-pci-intel-mtl 0000:00:09.0: DMICs detected in NHLT tables: 0
While dom0 says:
[ 37.489569] sof-audio-pci-intel-mtl 0000:00:1f.3: Digital mics found on Skylake+ platform, using SOF driver
[ 37.544083] sof-audio-pci-intel-mtl 0000:00:1f.3: DMICs detected in NHLT tables: 2
dom0 recognizes and uses the controller correctly/fully, while a VM only does a crippled mode with some basic intel-hda functionality. Both have the same kernel, sof-drivers, etc. but the VM does not have the NHLT table. The internal microphone does not work with the VM.