bulkhead refurb update

[jin]

update

ive removed the pop rivets and P clips that held the brake pipes on,

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02331.jpg

they didn't fit too well and the pop rivets didn't go through the
bulkhead so only served to swell out the fiberglass and let water and
dirt in, evidenced by the dirt that had crept within the hole around
the rivet, i chamferd the holes to remove the contaminated fiberglass
and gelcoted from the outside with a thin layer

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02333.jpg

then filled the rear with slow set araldite to seal the join and
hopefully put a bit more strength back in

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02336.jpg

the tape is just to stop it running out and keep it smooth

cut out the first hole for my cable glands, i found a cone step drill
very handy for enlarging holes (I'm using one of my extra? servo mount
holes that were drilled but unused?) since they locate and don't
wander about ripping the gel coat like normal twist drills, only thing
to do is drill both sides sins the steps are shallow,

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02332.jpg

tapped it out to the right size

and sealed the fiberglass with araldite resin and wound the gland in

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02335.jpg

then gave a wipe round the inside with more resin just to be sure,
these should be very water proof now, this one will be for the wiper
motor

as for the brake pipes, I'm not too sure how I'm going to secure the P
clips, I'm not going to use pop rivets fore sure, i may drill a few
holes and tap a thread then wind in a stainless stud with araldite to
seal unless anyone knows a batter way?

cheers for any info

[Susan and Martin Scott]

Maybe a 'better' clip than a P clip - I found some useful ones (as used on
Ford Fiesta 99) which held my brake pipes and fuel lies in one
bundle.......TRW Automotive have good selection - can be secured with a
self-tapper in some cases, or a sealed 6mm screw from the other side of a
panel.
Martin

update

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02331.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02333.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02336.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02332.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02335.jpg

cheers for any info

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[jin]

cheers mate
ill take a look

On Dec 30, 3:48 pm, "Susan and Martin Scott"

> For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en

>
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is"
> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
> within this or related message(s).
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> Version: 10.0.1416 / Virus Database: 2109/4111 - Release Date: 12/29/11- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[AJ]

Saw these recommended in Kit Car Magazine
Drill a hole - push in the plastic insert - the push in the cup which
takes the pipe

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Push_In_Brake_Pipe_Clips_BPC2

I haven't tried them....

Regards
AJ

On Dec 30, 3:48 pm, "Susan and Martin Scott"
<susanandmar...@corringham99.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

> For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en

>
> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is"
> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
> within this or related message(s).
>
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> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG -www.avg.com

[Jim Hearne]

I used a lot of standard Ford clips as well.
The bulkhead is thick enough to drill and tap with a M4 thread so you
can hold the P clips on with ordinary bolts (i used Stainless).

Jim

[Ian Harrison]

Looking god Jin, keep the updates coming!

I really need to spend more time in the garage...

Ian

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[jin]

thanks for all the tips and encouragement guys, it helps allot

ill keep you posted on progress

On Dec 31 2011, 8:05 pm, Ian Harrison <bighatp...@googlemail.com>
wrote:

> Looking god Jin, keep the updates coming!
>
> I really need to spend more time in the garage...
>
> Ian
>

> > For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en
>
> > IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or related message(s).- Hide quoted text -

[jin]

well despite suffering from a severe case of man flu ive done a fair
bit today, actually it made me feel slightly better

started with cleaning out all the bulkhead holes with various stiff
bottle brushes mounted in the drill and lots of loctite solvent
cleaner

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02346.jpg[/IMG]

this literally took hours to shift all the c++p out the holes like old
sealant and general ingrained grime, but the finished results are
worth it

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02351.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02352.jpg[/IMG]

the only holes beyond salvage are the 2heater matrix holes, i assume
at some point they leaked and the hot water / antifreeze has stained
and contaminated the bulkhead fibers, I've left them as they are at
the mo as a reference for the stainless plate, but once I've cut
corresponding holes in that ill chop out the damaged fiberglass

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02353.jpg[/IMG]

also pulled out the steering column bush as it was very sloppy but no
longer available from ford but i have a cunning plan.....

got some nice brass thread inserts to use instead of the self tappers
in the bulkhead like on the catch panel / wiper motor, i just don't
like the thought of self tappers munching up the fiberglass which has
already happened in places

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02348.jpg[/IMG]

these are brass M6, the holes need enlarging to about 8.7mm and i
found tapered reamers do a great job without ripping the gel coat off

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02349.jpg[/IMG]

ill araldite the inserts in place to give a permanent and sealed
thread

inside i spent ages scrubbing away at the inner bulkhead ready to seal
up all the cut holes

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02350.jpg[/IMG]

and now its looking to too far off

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02355.jpg[/IMG]

more to come soon.....

> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

[Jim Hearne]

Hi Jin,
I beginning to think you are even fussier than me !
Have a look at rivet nuts (Rivnuts and various other spellings) for
putting threads into the fibreglass as well.
Even though you won't be able to expand them fully in the thick
fibreglass you can expand them a little and bond them in in a similar
way to your brass inserts.
A countersink on the gelcoat side with let the normal top hat version
sit flush, though you can get countersunk rivnuts they are less common.

Whats the problem with the heater holes, they look ok in the pictures.

Jim

[jin]

cheers for the reply jim, i hope that my fastidiousness can only be a
good thing LOL

i did look at rivnuts but decided against them mainly due to the cost
of the tooling (although some folk i work with can set them using a
nut and bolt, i tried several times and failed) and as i wanted rust
resistant inserts, hopfully the brass will be ok but ill see.

around the matrix holes the fiberglass is stained orangy brown and
looks a bit ropey, i dont want contamination in there so ill just trim
a few mm off round each hole once ive made the stainless plate which i
should get started next week fingers crossed

bye for now

[Jim Hearne]

Oh yes, fussy is always a good thing.

True, you do need a tool for Rivnuts, and the cheap tools don't last
long either.
I've only ever used the Aluminium rivnuts, not the plated steel ones.
and always put Waxoil on the bolt threads to stop corrosion.

Jim

[jin]

ahh waxoyl, just the smell of it makes me feel at home .....

[Susan and Martin Scott]

If you get Complete Kit Car, there was a link in there a couple of months
ago to a webpage with instructions for making a simple tool for fitting
Rivnuts - It was very close to an ad for a tool for the same job....
probably didn't go down too well with the advertiser! Anyway, it's a simple
mandrel using a length of steel with suitable hole, and a nut and screw. I
made one up, and it easily worked (on GRP as well)
Martin

----- Original Message -----
From: "jin" <jinm...@btinternet.com>
To: "Quantum Owners Group" <quantu...@googlegroups.com>

bye for now

within this or related message(s).

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[jin]

oooh, if anyons got that link id love to see it

On Jan 6, 5:04 pm, "Susan and Martin Scott"

> within this or related message(s).
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG -www.avg.com

> Version: 10.0.1416 / Virus Database: 2109/4124 - Release Date: 01/05/12- Hide quoted text -

[AJ]

here is one.....

http://fjr1300.info/howto/rivnut-tool.html

[hansdefauwes]

take a look at http://www.memfast.co.uk/
all kind of rivnuts - i use them

[jin]

Ill look at those links, cheers

Most recent progress has been .......

Covering some areas in the bulkhead with fibreglass resin, because
some parts looked liked the glass strands had become exposed, either
my over enthusiastic scrubbing or just one of those things? Mind you
ive seen it elsewhere where I have not been scrubbing

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02357.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02358.jpg[/IMG]

All coated and wetted out

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02362.jpg[/IMG]

There were a few voids in the laminate too, not from damage but from
the moulding process, I drilled a hole through the top layer then
filled within with resin

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02360.jpg[/IMG]

Painted resin around each cut-out

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02366.jpg[/IMG]

And filled the old holes for the choke cable and some random wires

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02365.jpg[/IMG]

Inserted the brass inserts (naturally) into the bulkhead coated in
araldite 2011 (no that’s the make, not last years batch)

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02374.jpg[/IMG]

The outside of the holes are still a mess but ill gel coat around them
later

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02375.jpg[/IMG]

All look proper now though, I fancy making a new slam panel in
polished stainless if I get chance too

Drilled and tapped 5x M4 holes for stainless M4 bolts, each one dipped
in araldite and wound in from behind

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02373.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02377.jpg[/IMG]

the nuts and washers are there to pull them in firm and force any
excess araldite into the threads and stop it running out (this stuff
takes hours to go off), the masking tape to ensure I can get them off
afterwards

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02377.jpg[/IMG]

And tapped and bonded in the cable gland for the lambda sensor too

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02376.jpg[/IMG]

Not bad since im still dying of man flu and coughing up stuff that
looks like it should come from a human body.....

More soon

See ya folks


On Jan 6, 8:19 pm, "hansdefauwes" <hansdefau...@hetnet.nl> wrote:
> take a look athttp://www.memfast.co.uk/

> ...
>
> read more »- Hide quoted text -

[jin]

Latest progress

Since the steering column to bulkhead seal is no longer available from
ford I had to come up with a solution since mine was shot and I don’t
like not being able to obtain spares, I found these on ebay and they
seem readily available elsewhere too

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-SLIDE-A-BOOT-EXTRA-LARGE-BALL-JOINT-TRACK-ROD-END-RUBBER-GREASE-DUST-COVERS-/170761619355?_trksid=p4340.m503&_trkparms=algo%3DRIC.CFNP%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D180773395500%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5667536230476916310


the thinking being they are meant for a shaft turning within them and
a spot of grease will keep them lubed, they are polyurethane too so
should last better.
I made a stainless boss 38mm O.D. one end and 35mm O.D the other (the
exact size of the hole in the bulkhead

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02407.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02408.jpg

then bonded it into the bulkhead

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02410.jpg

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02412.jpg[/IMG]

Ill fit the boot tonight once the adhesive has set
Other progress, since all my grommets went crumbly, im changing them
all to much more readily available land rover grommets, the one for
the speedo cable needed enlarging since I need clearance behind as the
grommet will hold into the stainless plate, since the centreline of
the hole was too close to the brake transfer bar this gave me the
chance to correct it with a holsaw using a block of wood to drill into
to hold it steady

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02403.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02404.jpg

progress is slow but steady

[jin]

busy time of it

drilled and tapped all the holes that will hold my heater hose seal
plate in place

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012001.jpg

(at this point i haven't yet realised ive fitted the wrong size bolts
in the holes - oh what fun)

and heres the finished result

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012002.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012003.jpg

thats the begining and the end
the bit in between went a bit like this,

slapped loads of sikaflex on the reverse side of the stainless panel
and squished into place, all looks well but a bit messy with black goo
oozing all round the edges, then find the pack of correct length M4
bolts on the floor ....... oh ehk, ive already araldited the others
in, thankfully with slow set, so i unwound those (ever tried using an
Allen key when its stuck to your fingers?) then put the new bolts in
place, ok back to step one and start fitting the rest - then total
darkness
the garage electrics obviously cant cope with 3 x 2kw fan heaters a
radio and phone charger, so i fumble about in the dark (all the while
realizing the sikaflex may start to set in the wrong place since ive
not actually tightened any bolts yet) to replace the main fuse and
start again, this time without the radio or phone charger (cant loose
the heaters as its chucking it down with snow outside and i can still
feel a chill inside)
get a few bolts in, all the while loads of sikaflex is oozing out
start juggling about 30 rags and a bottle white sprit, fit the wrong
nuts on the plates main securing bolts then......
total darkness again
double arse

of we go again feeling my way out the garage to put a new fuse in,
thinking ok ill have to loose a heater so may as well put the radio
back on, after more faffing about and 300 rags later i got it all
bolted on and wiped off
looks ok and will looks better when ive had time to properly wipe down
the surface more and clean off the few smears

should start on the servo side soon if i can muster the strength

ive no idea how jim managed to do the whole front in one piece, ive
had i nightmare doing just half but i take my hat off to him

[Susan and Martin Scott]

That does look good - now all you need is a new fuse box in the garage with
trips so you can reset them quickly!!
Martin

----- Original Message -----
From: "jin" <jinm...@btinternet.com>
To: "Quantum Owners Group" <quantu...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 10:47 AM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update

busy time of it

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012001.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012002.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/04022012003.jpg

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is"
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in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
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[Jim Hearne]

Keep up the good work, nice to see some Quantum work being done, even if
it's not mine :-(

As you've found, the radio and phone charger draw no significant
current, it's the fan heaters that do.
Each 2kW heater will be taking 8.3 amps, thats 25 amps altogether.
Whats the rating fuse thats blowing ?, unless you have a ring main
wiring circuit on the in the garage you may well be overloading the
wiring, in the worst case this could cause a fire.

Jim

[jin]

cheers guys
yep i knew at the time i was being optemistic by switching off the
radio and phone, but it was sooooo cold outside i opted for the
warmth, with breaks back into the house to replace the fuse (13A)

i will be looking into getting a proper feed into the garage soon, in
the meantime ill just have to put 2 pairs of overalls on ;-)

> >> cheers for any info- Hide quoted text -

[Jim Hearne]

Eek, you were taking 25 amps down a 13 amp extension lead, i bet the
wiring and the plug were getting a bit warm !

Jim

[jin]

the wiring and the plug were about the only things that were warm
ive got to get this sorted, i hate being cold but im having real
trouble getting the garage warm enough

if only i could park the car in the house.........

> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

[Matthew Wastell]

Any chance of insulating the garage? Insulations a much better bet than
more/different heaters.

When I used to do a lot of outside work on muddy land rovers in the winter I
would wear an all in one motorcycle thermal suit (under layer) and then
normal clothes on top and a boiler suit. Seems to work well (just don't
lie in a puddle!). Thermal suits can be picked up for £10-£20 from
motorcycle places online.

Matthew

-----Original Message-----
From: quantu...@googlegroups.com [mailto:quantu...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of jin
Sent: 06 February 2012 20:03
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update

--

[jin]

thats a good idea mate, ill take a look

the garage is insulated slightly, the roof is done and the main door,
but not the sides, ill be doing them one day hopfully, once ive got
the big lump of fiberglass in the middle out the way first ;-)

> > >>>>on,http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02331.jpg

> > >>>>    they didn't fit too well and the pop rivets didn't go through
> > >>>>the  bulkhead so only served to swell out the fiberglass and let
> > >>>>water and  dirt in, evidenced by the dirt that had crept within
> > >>>>the hole around  the rivet, i chamferd the holes to remove the
> > >>>>contaminated fiberglass  and gelcoted from the outside with a thin

> > >>>>layerhttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02333.jpg

> > >>>> then filled the rear with slow set araldite to seal the join and
> > >>>>hopefully put a bit more strength back in
> > >>>>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02336.jpg
> > >>>> the tape is just to stop it running out and keep it smooth  cut
> > >>>>out the first hole for my cable glands, i found a cone step drill
> > >>>>very handy for enlarging holes (I'm using one of my extra? servo
> > >>>>mount  holes that were drilled but unused?) since they locate and
> > >>>>don't  wander about ripping the gel coat like normal twist drills,
> > >>>>only thing  to do is drill both sides sins the steps are shallow,
> > >>>>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02332.jpg
> > >>>> tapped it out to the right size
> > >>>> and sealed the fiberglass with araldite resin and wound the gland

> > >>>>inhttp://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02335.jpg

> > >>>> then gave a wipe round the inside with more resin just to be
> > >>>>sure,  these should be very water proof now, this one will be for
> > >>>>the wiper  motor  as for the brake pipes, I'm not too sure how I'm
> > >>>>going to secure the P  clips, I'm not going to use pop rivets fore
> > >>>>sure, i may drill a few  holes and tap a thread then wind in a
> > >>>>stainless stud with araldite to  seal unless anyone knows a batter
> > >>>>way?
> > >>>> cheers for any info- Hide quoted text -
> > >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained

> within this or related message(s).- Hide quoted text -

[Jim Hearne]

I fully insulated my 21' square wooden garage and it only takes one 3kW
heater to keep it warm, it's on a thermostat to keep the temperature to
around 10 C through the winter, stops things going rusty.
Insulation is also a bonus in the summer, keeps the garage nice and cool.

Pre fab Concrete garages are a bit of a pain to insulate, on my brothers
one we ended up using hard foam insulation and holding it up with sheets
of plywood on the inside.

Don't forget to put seals around the doors as well.

Jim

[jin]

yep mines pre fab concrete all right, its a nightmare to drill into
also,
they do have handy indents on each panel just asking for some
insulation so ill be doing that soon
i mad my own draught excluders for the main door out of an old long
flappy strips use to draft proof warehouse doors, im quite proud of
that one :-)

[jon jackson]

Oh reading about you're garage heating woes reminded me of when I lived in
Totnes Devon, my garage was soaking wet from Oct to April and was the devil
to work in during winter because of it, but now we moved back to Hampshire
in 2004 and I enjoy an insulated double garage with a little workshop
attached and the misery of a damp Devon winter is not a place I wish for
again.
Good luck with the insulating.
Cheers Jon RST 2+2.

----- Original Message -----
From: "jin" <jinm...@btinternet.com>
To: "Quantum Owners Group" <quantu...@googlegroups.com>

[jin]

oh what i'd give for a double garage ........

> ...
>
> read more »- Hide quoted text -

[Matthew Wastell]

What?

> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en

[Andy Cowley (Q2-379)]

Apologies for getting all Monty Python, but here
goes..................

Single garage --- luxury

Yeasterday I was outside rubbing down some body filler dressed in
jeans, t-shirt, hoodie (with hood up), boiler suit, fleece jacket,
woollen hat & gloves.

Looked a complete plonker, but was nice & warm

Andy C

On Feb 8, 12:29 pm, Matthew Wastell <matt...@wastell.eu> wrote:
> What?
>

> ...
>
> read more »

[Gary]

Oi ! I live in Plymouth, Devon and the inlaws are in hampshire. It is
colder and snowier where you are!

Qless getting off the band wagon.

On 08/02/2012 12:51, Andy Cowley (Q2-379) wrote:
> Apologies for getting all Monty Python, but here
> goes..................
>
> Single garage --- luxury
>
> Yeasterday I was outside rubbing down some body filler dressed in
> jeans, t-shirt, hoodie (with hood up), boiler suit, fleece jacket,

> woollen hat& gloves.
>
> Looked a complete plonker, but was nice& warm

>> read more �

[Ken Needham]

Jim's got the best answer but there are other ways to survive.
 Ski thermals are cheap right now and are very efficient. Trouble with garages is that they are full of metal, a thermal mass that will get very cold and hold it for a long time.
 I use  one of the small propane gas fan heaters for about 20 mins. The 15 Kw output gets the garage up to  12 - 15 degrees. The humidity goes above 80% but I then use just an electric fan heater, 2Kw. within half an hour the humidifier has bought the humidity down to abot 70% and the temperature stays around 13 for the rest of the day
 
Ken
 

> Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 21:39:00 +0000
> From: gary_bro...@blueyonder.co.uk
> To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update

> >> read more »

>
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> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group.
> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com

[jon jackson]

Cheers Matthew and Andy, I love the Pythonesque, so here goes.
I only mentioned the double garage and did not expect the Spanish
inquisition............wooooosh, nobody epects the Spanish inquisition.
Hi Gary Naw no snow here but I bet its wet with you.
However we miss the cliff walks and especially we used to walk from West
Looe to Polppero, pub lunch and walk back............lurvly.
Not all bad in the wild west I agree, but we are Hampshire hogs and this is
where we belong.

[Matthew Wastell]

-0.5 no snow, north Hampshire.

In fact when it really snowed we had hardly any at all and it was gone in the day. Seems we are quite sheltered here as work (25 miles east) had a bit.

M

>>> read more »

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> To post to this group, send email to quantu...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to quantumowner...@googlegroups.com

[Jim Hearne]

East Hampshire, lots of snow, well, about 2" anyway last weekend.
Some of it has melted now, luckily mostly on the roads, but still a lot
left.

Jim

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Matthew Wastell" <mat...@wastell.eu>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 9:06 AM
To: <quantu...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: bulkhead refurb update

[Matthew Wastell]

It's societies fault. Let's arrest society!

[jin]

Stage 1 complete

The bulkhead is finished

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02443.jpg

All the redundant holes and damaged gelcoat has been repaired from
this

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02321.jpg

To this

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02446.jpg

Built the gelcoat up in layers and flatted it back, I found using
pencil erasers as sanding blocks very handy

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02456.jpg

The servo mounting plate has been bonded to the bulkhead (the bolts
and large washers are just temporary to hold it into place)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02444.jpg

And the whole lot has been machine polished to a pleasing shine, im
very happy with the outcome;

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02451.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02450.jpg

just go to focus my attention on sorting this out next

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02457.jpg

No rest for the wicked
Back soon…..

[Russell Willcox]

Jin,
That looks very good, a lot of hard work but worth it.

Russell

On 15/02/2012 22:16, jin wrote:
> Stage 1 complete
>
> The bulkhead is finished
>
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02443.jpg
>
> All the redundant holes and damaged gelcoat has been repaired from
> this
>
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02321.jpg
>
> To this
>
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02446.jpg
>
> Built the gelcoat up in layers and flatted it back, I found using
> pencil erasers as sanding blocks very handy
>
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02456.jpg
>
> The servo mounting plate has been bonded to the bulkhead (the bolts
> and large washers are just temporary to hold it into place)
>
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02444.jpg
>
> And the whole lot has been machine polished to a pleasing shine, im
> very happy with the outcome;
>
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02451.jpg
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02450.jpg
>
> just go to focus my attention on sorting this out next
>
> http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02457.jpg
>
> No rest for the wicked

> Back soon�..

[Michael...@aol.com]

In a message dated 15/02/2012 22:16:17 GMT Standard Time, jinm...@btinternet.com writes:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC02451.jpg

many thanks for the blow by blow account and the high quality photos.  Michael

[jin]

today's jobs

started to clean up the chassis at the rear,
unbolted the steering rack as the bolts ans washers looked a bit
tatty, lo and behold my worst suspicions were confirmed in that the
one vertical mounting tube was half full of water! probably since
there is nothing actually sealing the interior to the elements but
nothing actually allowing any accumulating water to leave either,
worryingly I've not got any aspect of the car wet for 4 months so god
knows how long this has been sitting there it certianly didnt taste
too nice when i blew it out with conpressed air, i drained the rest by
drilling the base and flushing with solvent, I've tapped the hole M6
to plug it once I've worked out a good way to seal the tube and bolt
holes

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012035.jpg

then it was just a case of stripping the rust and paint back, it was
concerning as to how easy the original paint flaked off with just a
rudimentary scrub with a hand held wire brush, its a wonder its
survived this long, but the progress has been good

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012039.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012040.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012041.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012042.jpg

the bulk of the rust removal was done with one of these

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-cleaning-tools/stripping-disc-for-angle-grinder.html

really effective cuts and removes rust really well, i even tested it
on my finger just to check!

as you can see its pitted quite a bit so ill rely on the acid to
remove the last bits of rust from them but its all going to plan,
looks soo shiny its gonna be a shame to paint it

quick question, can anybody tell me exactly how to space the steering
rack so i can make proper spacers? a sensible person would have
measured it before unbolting it, i thought it would be obvious but it
looks like it would need spacing both sides to be even?

[hansdefauwes]

I used a soda blaster like this - all rust gone
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Lb-Portable-Soda-Blaster-/320849370056?pt=Sanders_Sandblasters&hash=item4ab41cdbc8

hans

----- Original Message -----
From: "jin" <jinm...@btinternet.com>
To: "Quantum Owners Group" <quantu...@googlegroups.com>

today's jobs

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/18022012035.jpg

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-cleaning-tools/stripping-disc-for-angle-grinder.html

--

[hansdefauwes]

Or a DIY soda blaster
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YI_Bnl6l-OY

[Ken Needham]

Hans, you could try RIVNUTs, They work well in fibreglass and are available in stainless as well as ally
 
regards
Ken

[hansdefauwes]

Ken

 

I have plenty from http://www.memfast.co.uk/

hans

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Ken Needham

To: quantu...@googlegroups.com