Charging 2+2 query

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Jamest142

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Mar 7, 2019, 2:22:19 PM3/7/19
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Hiya folks

Q2-002 is in disgrace at the moment...  As well as a burst heater hose (to be fixed when it is dry!), she is having charging issues if anyone can offer any advise please?
The charge light is on very dimly most of the time at all rev speeds, when running with no load the voltage is 13.9-14.1V, when the headlights are on it drops to 13.2V or so.  If I put everything on (heater fan / fog lights / brake lights etc), then the volts drop to 12.5V or so. 
If I charge the battery over a weekend, and leave over a couple of days (it is my daily drive so can't leave longer!), then the battery holds the charge, and does not seem to significantly drop.
When on tickover at 800rpm on the rev counter, the volts drop down to 12.7V or so, but go up when revved very slightly.
Finally 2nd strange thing, when I 1st start the car, I have to rev up to 2000rpm to get the red light to turn off / go dim.

I have had a new battery and a recon alternator with the original pulley wheel last year.
These were changed as I the battery was going flat, and thought these were the issue, but the original setup did not have the dim ignition light issue...

Can anyone advise if it is a duff battery, or duff alternator, and is there an easy way to check?  Or any other suggestions please?  Is it worth taking a wire directly from the alternator to the battery?

Best regards
James T
Q2-002
www.bostin.photography

chris...@btinternet.com

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Mar 7, 2019, 2:32:57 PM3/7/19
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Have you checked the alternator loom for damage/wear? Also the little blue wire from it that plus into the main loom at the starter motor?
 
Chris G
 
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2019 7:04 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Charging 2+2 query
 
Hiya folks
 
Q2-002 is in disgrace at the moment...  As well as a burst heater hose (to be fixed when it is dry!), she is having charging issues if anyone can offer any advise please?
The charge light is on very dimly most of the time at all rev speeds, when running with no load the voltage is 13.9-14.1V, when the headlights are on it drops to 13.2V or so.  If I put everything on (heater fan / fog lights / brake lights etc), then the volts drop to 12.5V or so.
If I charge the battery over a weekend, and leave over a couple of days (it is my daily drive so can't leave longer!), then the battery holds the charge, and does not seem to significantly drop.
When on tickover at 800rpm on the rev counter, the volts drop down to 12.7V or so, but go up when revved very slightly.
Finally 2nd strange thing, when I 1st start the car, I have to rev up to 2000rpm to get the red light to turn off / go dim.
 
I have had a new battery and a recon alternator with the original pulley wheel last year.
These were changed as I the battery was going flat, and thought these were the issue, but the original setup did not have the dim ignition light issue..
 
Can anyone advise if it is a duff battery, or duff alternator, and is there an easy way to check?  Or any other suggestions please?  Is it worth taking a wire directly from the alternator to the battery?
 
Best regards
James T
Q2-002
www.bostin.photography
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Jim Hearne

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Mar 7, 2019, 2:33:39 PM3/7/19
to 'Jamest142' via Quantum Owners Group
I would put money on the alternator with those symptoms, either that or a high resistance joint in the cabling.
To find out which measure the voltage at the output of the alternator directly, between the output stud or connector and the alternator housing.

But, it sounds like it has lost 1 or 2 of the 3 phases that alternators have internally, so it's trying to charge but isn't able to.

Your warning light problem can also be caused by the wrong bulb in the warning light, or it having been replaced with a LED bulb.
But assuming both problems started at the same time it's going to be the alternator.

Jim

Jamest142

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Mar 7, 2019, 4:38:38 PM3/7/19
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Hi folks

Many thanks for the advise - I have ordered a new alternator (not a Refurb this time!!).

teegee777

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Mar 8, 2019, 6:22:51 AM3/8/19
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Hi James,
              I've had a similar problem in the past, the alternator is very susceptible to all weathers down there. When I bought the car, the problem was the after market dashboard and as Jim says the alternator light was wired incorrectly to enable charging to start. Last year a new alternator seemed to have cured another charging issue, but in the end it was the connectors, if you take the alternator black plug to pieces, check that the spade terminals inside haven't corroded. (mine had)

Tony

robert greig

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Mar 8, 2019, 1:23:28 PM3/8/19
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Hello James.

As per what Chris G said.

Take a good look at the wires from the alternator.

My first thought was the alternator when this happened to my 2+2.
But when I fitted the new alternator, I found the thick wire that sends power back to the battery was fraid ie falling apart.

Hope this helps.
Regards Robert.

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Jamest142

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Mar 9, 2019, 2:53:16 AM3/9/19
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Hiya folks

Thanks for the suggestions on the connector - will have a look at this as well.

Have a good weekend :)

Best regards

James T
Q2-002
www.bostin.photography

On Thursday, 7 March 2019 19:22:19 UTC, Jamest142 wrote:

Jamest142

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Mar 12, 2019, 4:06:25 AM3/12/19
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Hiya folks

Really daft question - I have ordered a new alternator, but it won't fit.  The seller is absolutely adamant it is the correct one, and says that it is a right hand fit, and it is the correct unit.  I have arranged a return.
I have Googled, and it looks like it should a left hand fit...
To save me keep buying alternators, can anyone advise if it is correct, and also did Quantum do anything funny to modify the bracket?

On the one I have on the car, then with the 2 mounting lugs on top, the single mounting lug is near the engine / timing belt.  On the one purchased, the single mounting lug would be near the front of the car...

Best regards
James Turner
Q2-002
www.bostin.photography  

Jim Hearne

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Mar 12, 2019, 4:53:32 AM3/12/19
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There are 2 different positions for the alternator on the CVH, with 2 different brackets and adjusters.
One has the alternator hanging down from the 2 bolts in the bracket, the other has the alternator sitting above the 2 bolts.
 
The bracket may well have been swapped as the alternator clears the 2+2 spaceframe much better with one sort compared to the other (i forget which is better now).
 
However, look at the alternator carefully, you usually can take out the long bolts that hold the ends of the alternator together and rotate the end half to convert a left hand to right hand or visa versa.
Make sure you only rotate the end, don’t take it off or you may damage the brushes.
 
Jim
 
 
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 7:41 PM

Jim Hearne

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Mar 12, 2019, 4:56:41 AM3/12/19
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Found some pictures of the 2 types of brackets.
 
Jim
 
 
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 7:41 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Charging 2+2 query
 
altbrkt1-600.jpg
underalt-896.jpg

Susan and Martin Scott

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Mar 12, 2019, 4:58:42 AM3/12/19
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Without seeing it, it's difficult to say, but it may be handed the other way. It is possible to change the 'handedness' of the Lucas alternators by removing the 3 long bolts (if they'll shift) and turning the front part of the casing, but there is then the problem of the threaded hole! This used to be done by just drilling the thread out, and then using a nut/bolt arrangement to holdthe lug on the adjuster if that makes sense. Some people removed the thread anyway and used a nut/bolt rather than just a bolt because (although more fiddly to adjust) it gave a little more support to the alloy.
Martin 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 7:41 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Charging 2+2 query

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Jamest142

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Mar 12, 2019, 3:07:56 PM3/12/19
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Hiya folks

Thanks for the reply, I have checked, and confirm I have the 'under' type of bracket, so require the Left Hand unit.  Easiest way was to swap for a 'Pinto' style alternator, so all sorted.  Just got to wait for the lovely weather so I can actually fit it...

Niall McCracken

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Mar 14, 2019, 4:43:39 AM3/14/19
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Hello there

I had the exact same problem with my old Lada Samara, used to have to drive with headlights and windscreen wipers and heater and radio to stop it overcharging the battery. 

Niall McCracken

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Mar 14, 2019, 4:43:42 AM3/14/19
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Hello there, not sure how relevant this is but I had the exact same problem on my Lada Samara (don't laugh) a long time ago, it happened after the alternator was replaced. In the end it was actually the pully wheel on the alternator arm that was the problem - the new alternator had one that was significantly bigger than the old one and that's what was causing the overcharge (spindle turning too quickly). But that's just my experience, good luck with the refit.


On Thursday, March 7, 2019 at 7:22:19 PM UTC, Jamest142 wrote:

Jim Hearne

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Mar 14, 2019, 4:52:40 AM3/14/19
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A bigger alternator pulley would make it spin slower not faster.
Maybe it was just spinning slower and not fast enough to charge properly ?
Spinning an alternator faster shouldn’t cause overcharging as it has a regulator built in.
That’s until you reach the point where it mechanically fails though spinning too fast.
 
Jim
 
 
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 10:45 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Charging 2+2 query
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Niall McCracken

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Mar 18, 2019, 5:02:36 AM3/18/19
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Thanks Jim, interesting points. I suppose it was a long time ago I may have misremembered something! But it was definitely something along those lines (not that that is much help to anyone either!)
Niall

Jamest142

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Mar 20, 2019, 3:38:33 PM3/20/19
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Hiya folks

Many thanks for the suggestions - new unit not been fitted yet due to a week in Blackpool being in the way...  Will keep you posted as to whether fixed or not.

Ken Needham

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Mar 23, 2019, 6:23:50 AM3/23/19
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Hi Niall, rather late reply but your symptoms suggest an alternator rectifier problem. Alternators actually produce 3 phase AC. The rectifier has 6 diodes which form a full wave conversion to DC. If one or more of the diodes has blown then the alternator will only produce partial rectification. This will cause the indicator lamp to be partially illuminated.

It may be possible to fix by replacement of the  rectifier stack but there are various designs which may include the controller.

Repair does require heavyweight desoldering of the rectifier from the coils. A big soldering iron is required and some unsoldering/soldering skills.

Simpler to get the alternator checked and if faulty get an exchange unit.

Something to check first though is the wiring. There are two wires usually that connect to the alternator. The big wire is the charging lead that connects to the battery, sometimes via the starter solenoid battery connection. The small wire is the wire that gives feedback to the controller of the system voltage. Sometimes this is connected directly to the battery or may go back to the ignition switch. If this wire has an intermittent connection again the  indicator lamp will glow.

Hope that helps.

Best regards

Ken

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


From: quantu...@googlegroups.com <quantu...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Niall McCracken <niallmc...@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2019 8:44:35 AM
To: Quantum Owners Group
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: Charging 2+2 query
 
Thanks Jim, interesting points. I suppose it was a long time ago I may have misremembered something! But it was definitely something along those lines (not that that is much help to anyone either!)
Niall

Jamest142

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Mar 23, 2019, 6:49:28 PM3/23/19
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Hiya folks

Just a quick update, and thanks for the further suggestions.  I have fitted the new alternator, and all is now well with Q2-002.
Hopefully get a refund on the faulty unit - still just under the 12 months warranty.

Frank Williams

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Jun 21, 2019, 11:25:48 AM6/21/19
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the light issue is caused by a blown diode in the alternator causing the light to stay on and slowly draining the battery 
just thought peoplw might like to know  

Ian Harrison

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Jun 21, 2019, 12:50:41 PM6/21/19
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Yep, that would do it. 

Ian

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