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Thanks for that, Jim.
I’d always had the vague nagging doubt that Canbus bulbs probably did their thing via resistance, rather than electronic cleverness – and therefore entirely negate the biggest benefit of LED bulbs.
I shall remove resistors with impunity on all my new LED bulbs. 😊
Matthew
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From my experience the load resistors are not just to provide a load to cancel the bulb out monitoring but are there to prevent the canbus connected light control modules constantly switching the supply voltage on and off & going into bulb out function where the car powers up another bulb in the cluster on what it thinks is bulb failure due to the lower power consumption of the LED over a bulb.
Mercedes and GM have been using the above for quite some time, amongst others now, & I suspect is the reason the led bulbs are marketed as canbus types.
Still doesn’t excuse the lack of provision for proper heat dissipation though.
I do agree with Jim as the Chinese, amongst others, who make cheaper end throw away electronic based products seem to have little regard to how the heat is going to be dissipated & quite often see things failed simply because the components used require some sort of heatsink to dissipate the heat they produce in service but are very rarely manufactured with any provision for the heat produced so fail in short order quite simply due to overheating.
One of the most annoying failures I am coming across recently is where people have replaced the old bi metalic voltage regulators for the gauge clusters in older cars with one of the cheaper end solid state devices sold for the job but the problem is most of them fail after a sort time.
After opening a few its quite simply the component that is doing all the supply switching requires a heat sink to dissipate the heat & I have yet to come across one with even a basic heat sink fitted.
I have fitted a few with small heatsinks and so far all of those are still going strong.
I tend to make sure the LED type bulbs I buy are the non canbus type if fitting to a older car or do as Jim suggests and remove the loading resister just leaving the resistors that are required for the LED to work.
Paul
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