servo mounting woes

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jin

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Feb 6, 2012, 11:17:13 AM2/6/12
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ok so all is going well enough but ive come up against another head
scratcher

ive cut out a square stainless plate to mount between the bulkhead and
servo mounting brackets, (exactly as I have done on the pedal side) I
used a straight edge across the front of the car using the upper most
sub frame mounting holes as a datum and held the plate secure while
scribing through the bulkhead to mark the 4 servo mounting bracket
holes

Once I removed the plate it became clear that something was amiss, the
holes were out of square with each other in relation to the stainless
plate which is itself square and was held square to the bulkhead

My main question is......

Are the servo brackets to bulkhead holes supposed to be exactly square
to each other?

I thought it best to ask before o go elongating holes

my only doubt for this was brought about by realising that the actual
servo to servo mounting holes appear to be not "square" in relation to
each other, by which I mean if you line the 2 brackets parallel side
by side to each other the PCD of the servo to bracket holes would make
a trapezium shape and not square if that makes sense?

Trouble is my bulkhead scribe marks are long gone so I have no
reference

Mine is the type A / low spec setup
Cheers in advance

Jim Hearne

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Feb 6, 2012, 2:00:51 PM2/6/12
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I don't remember them being not square but i probably did like you and
marked them through from the bulkhead.

Jim

jin

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Feb 6, 2012, 3:07:58 PM2/6/12
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yep ive drilled the plate today marking it out on a vernier height
gauge, it is spot on accurate
offering it up to the bulkhead shows not one hole to line up properly,
on the upside the servo brackets mount on the stainless plate a dream
and hold the servo correct, so ill use the stainless plate as the
datum and correct the 4 bulkhead holes

sigh....
> > Cheers in advance- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Hamish Freeman

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Feb 6, 2012, 4:03:05 PM2/6/12
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Should you have this problem again, a simple way to set this up is to hold
or preferably tape a piece of reasonably stiff paper over the area in
question then run your finger over the area where the holes are to create an
indent - there is usually enough "black stuff" around to mark the edges
anyway.

Sorry if this is teaching you to suck eggs but my father taught me this
method when I was as a small boy making gaskets for our motor mower. He
grew up in an age when simple spares were not available over the counter as
today and everything had to be home made. The next stage would be to press
a ball bearing into the hole area to actually cut the paper where required.
If doing this over say a casting, a sharp but relatively soft tap with a
hammer will serve to complete the cut. I cut sump gaskets this way using
the round end of a plenishing hammer. The trick with something this size is
to cut the holes first and insert some dowels such as drill to hold the
gasket in place whilst the outer edge then the inner edge are "tapped
through".

It is amazing how many people I have shown this method who had not thought
of the idea but I guess anyone who has done a craft apprenticeship would
have learned this trick as a matter of course.

Hamish

My main question is......

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jin

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Feb 7, 2012, 1:17:17 AM2/7/12
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ahh yes, the "workshop thumb" trick,
either way the holes are way out no mater how i copy their loctions

talking of making gaskets, i tried for agaes to buy some wad punches
and in the end i had to buy some online from Draper which lasted all
of about 5 gaskets, is it me or is Draper going down hill in quality?
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> IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is"
> basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
> Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
> in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
> person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
> alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
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Jim Hearne

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Feb 7, 2012, 3:21:19 AM2/7/12
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What were you punching onto ?
Ideally you want a block of lead (or hard plastic, or hard wood) to
punch onto as it won't damage the cutting edge.

Having to recently replace my complete toolbox (thanks Pikeys !) i have
to agree, the quality of a lot of tools isn't as good as it used to be,
even replacing like for like.
I've found Sealey tools to be very good value for money.
Halfords Professional as well, especially the ratchet spanners.

Jim

jin

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Feb 7, 2012, 10:04:05 AM2/7/12
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Funny you should mention that, i was punching into the end grain of
hard wood, and ive no idea why it has to be the end grain but this is
what i was taught during my aprentiship, and what ive always done
since, either way the wood seems almost harder than the wad punches -
almost.

your right about halfords professional, ive only got 3 items from them
- 13 17 19 combi spanners, ive had them for 10+ years now and they are
still perfect, i used the 19mm to undo a very stubborn tie bar nut on
my first car, it was so tight i had to jack the car up on the spanner
then sit on the wing to shift the nut - the spanner is still as good
as new, one day ill treat myself to some more
> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

jin

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Feb 9, 2012, 1:24:36 AM2/9/12
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Well I’ve made some progress despite the bulkhead holes being all
wrong

I’ve cleaned up the brackets

http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view&current=07022012004.jpg

and mounted them on my stainless plate that does have the holes in the
right position (to within .3mm if im being nerdy)
I mounted them to the plate

http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view&current=07022012005.jpg

you can see the servo mount holes being asymmetric both sides

http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view&current=07022012008.jpg

but the distance point to point across the furthest apart holes is the
same as the mondeo servo, so….

http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view&current=07022012009.jpg

clamping them face to face I can mark the positions for the new holes
through the old

http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view&current=07022012011.jpg

like so
and voilà, nice slotted holes that can now take a fiesta servo and a
mondeo servo which fits a treat now

http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/?action=view&current=07022012012.jpg

if ever this actually works ill bundle this info together and do a
write up for the club mag since there seems to be lots of ambiguous
info about regarding the mondeo conversion

hansdefauwes

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Feb 9, 2012, 12:17:32 PM2/9/12
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Hi,

Does a MK1 rear window fit in a Saloon?

New MK2 rear windows are extremely hard to find - in Holland

Hans

Jim Hearne

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Feb 9, 2012, 1:19:35 PM2/9/12
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The Mk1 and Mk2 Fiesta front and rear glass are different sizes (Mk2
Smaller) , but with the matching rubber they fit in the same size
opening on the car.
But, of course the Quantum saloon doesn't use the rubber.
So, i would say no, it's going to be too big.

Jim

Eddie

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Feb 9, 2012, 5:53:36 PM2/9/12
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Hang on Jim

My blue coupe was built from a Mk1 and I did fit the original rear
screen with the rubber from Quantum.
It fitted fine.
I think this might be a try it and see situation as I have heard
others debate this one.

Eddie

Jim Hearne

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Feb 9, 2012, 6:10:22 PM2/9/12
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I'm 100% certain that the Mk1 and Mk2 Fiesta screens are different sizes.
I tried fitting a Mk2 screen in a Mk1 Fiesta shell years back and it
wouldn't fit until i used the matching rubber.
So, either the earlier Quantum saloons that were Mk1 Fiesta based had
larger glass openings or maybe there is just enough room for either size
glass.

Mind you i found i couldn't fit any sort of rubber trim around the rear
glass on my Mk2 based saloon, there wasn't any room so i just filled the
gap with sealant.

Jim

Eddie

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Feb 10, 2012, 2:44:16 AM2/10/12
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Oh. My car is a later shell and I used the Mk1 screen. Maybe I was
lucky, because I have heard of the difference in sizes before.
When I have both screens here next time I will have to compare.

Eddie
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