Sharp Convection Microwave Troubleshooting
Martta Borromeo
Ours did the same thing two years ago, magnetron went out, pretty expensive to replace especially in a 14cyrarvole microwave. We purchased new, same model, but cut hole to vent to the outside to help keep heat out of the coach.
As Cliff said, tested the capacitor, it was ok, had to be the magnetron. You could save money by getting a non-convection. Thr biggest consideration is getting one with a similar pivoting door otherwise the door won't open.
DANGER! The magnetron works at several THOUSAND volts, as does the capacitor. Don't even think about trying to read the voltage at the capacitor or you WILL blow up your meter and run you run the REAL risk of electrocution. Before opening the case be SURE it's unplugged! The capacitor could hold a charge for quite a while so shorting across it with a screwdriver is a good idea before grabbing anything. (The charge stored will give a good "snap" when shorted so cover your eyes.)
As stated above the most likely culprit is the magnetron, although a loose connection is possible and there is also a rectifier in the circuit whose failure can give the same symptoms. If you can do without it for a few days you could order a rectifier (go by the type of connectors on the rectifier; they are all electrically the same). They go for about a dollar each, but you may have to buy a "lot" of 2 to 6. (Search "microwave rectifier" on Amazon)
The good news is that magnetrons are fairly cheap ($30 to $150) and easy to replace. Amazon carries a wide variety and they are almost always clearly marked with a part number. (Yes, if you get it done by a service shop you will pay dearly. I think you can figure out how that works!)
I'd suggest considering a reasonably priced multimeter so you can actually measure the capacitance, useful for ac units too, beside inverter voltage, remote temp and much more. This is one for about $30 travels with us. Some clamp meters can do that too and can be useful. Takes the guesswork out.
Since you have the parts coming, you can test them. I had a similar problem with a GE, not a convection, but the same basic circuit. I checked BOTH the Rectifier and the Capacitor....and I have a VOM with a Capacitor scale. They both checked the same. Put in the new parts and it worked. In retrospect, I think it was STUPIDITY on my part or my daughter's. She said it quit....COLD turkey. I did the RESET and got power back to the display. BUT, I had already pulled out the parts.
If you don't get it working, then the cost of the Magnetron and the installation is your choice. As long as you have power from the main PS and the fuses are GOOD, assuming that is where the fuses are, then you have eliminated everything buy the Magnetron. If that is it in the picture and you can easily remove it....then it is your call. BUT, there is, from what very KNOWLEDGEABLE folks that HAVE replaced a Magnetitron, a specific set of steps to ensure no radiation leakage. If this was a $250 or so unit....NOPE....but the Mag might not be that expensive....
my GUESS based on years of trying to get cords and cables and stuff into areas where the holes were too small. They installed the microwave and ran the cord through the opening. THEN the thinner piece of Romex (assumed) inside the plastic conduit....and then installed the outlet. Others may know the real trick, but that one would work...
Good Luck... As to your CORD issue....Unless you decide to remove the outlet....which I would really consider....and install a REAL 15 amp outlet, then you will need to either add a J-Box for an NEC approved splice....or do what I do, frequently. Use THREE BUTT connectors and stagger them so that none overlap each other and then two wraps (or more) of electrical tape. The Butt Connectors will withstand the vibration of the MH. If you are really OCD or Anal, then put on a piece of shrink wrap tubing and cover your handi work. One of my "Certified" (NC Licensed) electricians would do this and hide the splice behind an item like a refrigerator....who's line cord was bad. The OSHA inspectors were notorious about not having an extension cord for any item in the break room and not allowing surge or CB protected power strips. EVERY device had to be plugged in to an OUTLET... So, we just ordered a replacement 90 deg line cord set....about 5 feet longer and then he spliced it using the above and tucked it in behind the fiber panel on the rear of the refrigerator....
Spoil sport....that takes all the fun and creativity out of it. The fact that the hole is hidden and no one will ever know, save the little mouse that can now crawl in, is irrelevant..... LOL... Seriously....look at the Outlet and think about a surface mounted Jbox and a REAL Residential 15 Amp outlet... Then cutting would be unnecessary if my method of installation is correct...
Your Dynasty has a steel frame body but I believe that the slides are an aluminum frame. Depending on where the Microwave is mounted, use a strong magnet to see if there is any steel structure in the wall area where you want to put the vent opening. But if your microwave is on a slideout, take a picture of the exterior wall when morning dew condenses on the outside skin just over the cooler metal structure. There are a number of vertical, horizontal and diagonal metal structure elements in the walls.
Attached is a morning picture of my model Dynasty Diamond IV showing the metal frame under the fiberglass skin of my front slideout. On my coach, the microwave oven is to the rear of the small window above the sink. That area is open and I could install a vent if I wanted to. I'd first make a shallow interior cut to removed the interior wall covering first to expose the wall insulation just to be sure that I didn't miss anything in the wall before cutting through the outside wall.
I installed the new oven today. Easy install by one man. Ingenious design for attaching to back wall. Two long angling screws hold the oven. I may add a couple screws on the side, screwed into the cabinet for added support.
On the back of the TV on a sticker that shows a bar code and serial number. This sticker may be on either the right or left side, depending on the model; but is normally located in the lower half of the back of the TV. The model number may also be visible on the side of the TV panel.
COUNTERTOPS
Some larger countertop ovens and built-in may have the label inside the oven cavity on the upper-left side of the left wall, closest to the hinge. Please check the inside of the microwave first before attempting to unmount or remove a built-in unit.
The white light on the center of the panel will illuminate once Easy Wave Open has been activated. When Control Lock is activated, the Easy Wave Open function is off. If the LED is not illuminated, please go through the steps above again.
If the display lights up when you press the buttons, but the microwave does not heat properly, ensure the drawer is fully closed. If a cup or other object is too tall, the door may not firmly close. The drawer must be closed to engage the safety interlocks and begin operating.
It is not necessary to buy all new cookware. Many pieces already in your kitchen can be used successfully in your new convection microwave oven. The chart below will you decide what utensils and coverings should be used in each mode