Exporting HDR images

[Boon Ong]

I downloaded PT GUI trial and did the HDR stitching for testing.

In order to get the HDR, I must export out to .HDR from PT GUI? Or, can I export as .jpg or .tiff so that I can convert to .jpg on Photoshop later on?

Please advise.


I had handheld the fish eye lense with my 5D2, pointing all side, top and bottom, but I kept getting the down images stitched wrongly. Is it due to my control points that is not sufficient or I did not indicate properly. (i had the 3 Step exposure for per image)

[Erik Krause]

Am 11.12.2012 17:50, schrieb Boon Ong:
> In order to get the HDR, I must export out to .HDR from PT GUI? Or, can
> I export as .jpg or .tiff so that I can convert to .jpg on Photoshop
> later on?

If you stitch your exposure bracketed images you have two options:
Either you create your panorama in an HDR format. This can be as a .hdr
(Radiance format) .exr (open exr), 32bit per channel TIFF or a photoshop
format. All this formats cover the complete dynamic range of your input
images. You must tonemap them in some external program like photoshop,
photomatix etc. in order to view them.

The other option is to use PTGui internal tonemapper or exposure fusion
and output LDR (low dynamic range, 8 bit or 16 bit per channel) .ipg or
.tif image.

--
Erik Krause
http://www.erik-krause.de

[Boon Ong]

Thats why I noticed when I opt for LDR instead of HDR.
But HDR is the better choice, right?

So, after the exporting to HDR, I will continue tone it in Photoshop and save as.

Is this the better option?

Please advise.

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[Erik Krause]

Am 11.12.2012 19:05, schrieb Boon Ong:
> Thats why I noticed when I opt for LDR instead of HDR.
> But HDR is the better choice, right?

No. If your goal are naturally looking panoramas, the better option is
exposure fusion inside PTGui. Only if you need HDR for CGI (image based
lighting) or if you prefer this awful unrealistic "HDR-look" create as
HDR and (eventually) tonemap later. Photoshop tone mapping is not very good.

[mcz...@gmail.com]

I've used the PTGui HDR fusion output quite a bit for shots and have got
good, natural looking results. It is specifically helpful when shooting
indoors in rooms with large windows, giving me a pano with the interior
well exposed while still allowing the viewer to see outside the windows.

My Canon 450D only gives +/- 2 on the bracket shots, but even with a
very bright and sunny day the results are quite acceptable. PTGui allows
for decent initial tweaking. I output a Tif, and may take that into
Photoshop to maybe use a curves layer on it to tweak the white and black
points and may a few adjustments on the curve itself for any desired
corrections, and finally a slight bit of sharpening.

Unless your looking for specific effects, I really don't know that
taking your HDR shots outside of Ptgui for HDR work is really worth the
extra steps.

Ray Setzer
Wivirtual

[Geoff - Spherical Visions]

Trying to use Handheld shots for HDR is not going to get you very far, you really need to use a tripod and a proper pano head to ensure that each shot in the HDR sequence is stable.

[Luc Villeneuve]

Photomatix has a feature to align images. Never used because I am always on a tripod.

On 11 déc. 2012, at 16:41, Geoff - Spherical Visions wrote:

Trying to use Handheld shots for HDR is not going to get you very far, you really need to use a tripod and a proper pano head to ensure that each shot in the HDR sequence is stable.

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[Erik Krause]

Am 11.12.2012 22:51, schrieb Luc Villeneuve:
> Photomatix has a feature to align images. Never used because I am always
> on a tripod.

It works reasonably for moderate to longer focal length. For fisheye
images it doesn't work at all. Special procedures are needed to align
handheld fisheye images:
http://wiki.panotools.org/Batch_merge_handheld_images

[Boon Ong]

Wow, great information here.

Greatly appreciate.

Erik - My aim is not to create those unrealistic images, but smooth dynamic range. For instance, in the forest - trees and sky.

Geoff - I am ordering my Nodal Ninja Ultimate, so I have to give a try using hand held while doing this.

Ray Setzer - you output HDR in PTGui to .TIFF, then on Photoshop to enhance the images, you managed to export as .jpg? I can't rem which step, but I cannot save as .jpg that time.


By the way, which lenses do you guys use to do for 360 x 180 images? Please advise me.



Also, for control point question. All control point must be in a straight line in order to recognise to the next image? e.g. window, building, lamp post? What happen if it is in the forest?

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[John Houghton]

On Dec 11, 11:43 pm, Boon Ong <djo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> By the way, which lenses do you guys use to do for 360 x 180 images? Please
> advise me.

People use a wide variety of lenses; virtually any lens can be used.
The choice depends on exactly what you are aiming to produce, how much
time you want to spend in shooting and processing, and how deep your
pockets are.

> Also, for control point question. All control point must be in a straight
> line in order to recognise to the next image? e.g. window, building, lamp
> post? What happen if it is in the forest?

Control points are generally placed on any matching features in the
area of overlap. Avoid features that may be affected by parallax or
are likely to move between shots. So in the forest, you may need to
restrict your control points to the ground and tree trunks if branches
and foliage are being blown about by the wind.

John

[Boon Ong]

I really want to say a big thanks with all these information given by everyone here.

I was looking to rent the fish eye lenses, but wondering if 24-70mm lenses is suitable, in terms of image quality. Yes, more time to do the stitching tho.



I shall give a try on the control point again. The tricky part is the look-down portion.

Seen on youtube, using the nodal ninja, point down - 1 shot. Then tilt the tripod and take another image of the floor

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[mcz...@gmail.com]

On 12/11/2012 5:43 PM, Boon Ong wrote:
> Wow, great information here.
>
> Greatly appreciate.
>
> Erik - My aim is not to create those unrealistic images, but smooth
> dynamic range. For instance, in the forest - trees and sky.
>
> Geoff - I am ordering my Nodal Ninja Ultimate, so I have to give a try
> using hand held while doing this.
>
> Ray Setzer - you output HDR in PTGui to .TIFF, then on Photoshop to
> enhance the images, you managed to export as .jpg? I can't rem which
> step, but I cannot save as .jpg that time.

PTGui often gives such a good output that I can take that Tif direct to
Pano2VR where I make cube faces or html5. (I could skip Pano2Vr but I
really like using the program to generate a quick swf file so I can get
a good look at the pano, checking for errors.)

I've set up recorded routines for some various sharpening methods
(Luminescence Channel, High Pass) which I use depending on circumstance.
I have a couple clients that I know prefer their final product vibrant
and sharp. So, these are common circumstances when Photoshop comes into
play. And my workflow in Photoshop is to save into Photoshop format,
keeping layers, and history so retweaking is simple. And to save out of
Photoshop a Tif copy for

>
> By the way, which lenses do you guys use to do for 360 x 180 images?
> Please advise me.
>

I use the Sigma 8MM fisheye. Six around at 5 deg down and one at 30 deg
up. So long as my Nodal Ninja is set up properly, I get good results
with this. I usually don't shoot a Nadir as I have a logo graphic that
covers the tripod.

>
> Also, for control point question. All control point must be in a
> straight line in order to recognise to the next image? e.g. window,
> building, lamp post? What happen if it is in the forest?
>
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 12, 2012 at 6:09 AM, Erik Krause <erik....@gmx.de
> <mailto:erik....@gmx.de>> wrote:
>
> Am 11.12.2012 22:51, schrieb Luc Villeneuve:
>
> Photomatix has a feature to align images. Never used because I
> am always
> on a tripod.
>
>
> It works reasonably for moderate to longer focal length. For fisheye
> images it doesn't work at all. Special procedures are needed to
> align handheld fisheye images:

> http://wiki.panotools.org/__Batch_merge_handheld_images

> <http://wiki.panotools.org/Batch_merge_handheld_images>
>
>
> --
> Erik Krause
> http://www.erik-krause.de
>
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> --
> Warmest regards,
>
> Boon Ong
>
> Have a nice day ahead!
>
>

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[Boon Ong]

Terrific information. I also using Pano2VR as to check out the end result.

So after you are done with the control point, you render out all in .PSD so that you can tweak the images individually? e.g. high pass
Then save as .TIFF as 1 layer, and drop in Pano2VR for checking of errors.

For Nodal Ninja, which head should I go for?
Ultimate M1 or NN4?
Is it necessary to get the Canon mounting plate for Nodal Ninja tripod head?

I am using Canon 5D2, 8-15mm (i have no tested out which Fish eye lenses is great yet)

What does Six around at 5 deg down and one at 30 deg up means? I have no clue for that. Is it for the turn around stoppages of 6 stops in total?


Please advise.
Thank you.

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Boon Ong

Have a nice day ahead!


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[mcz...@gmail.com]

On 12/14/2012 6:35 AM, Boon Ong wrote:
> Terrific information. I also using Pano2VR as to check out the end result.
>
> So after you are done with the control point, you render out all in .PSD
> so that you can tweak the images individually? e.g. high pass
> Then save as .TIFF as 1 layer, and drop in Pano2VR for checking of errors.

I typically use the single combined layer output unless I have some
specific need to retouch an individual layer. Output from PTGui is in
TIF. That TIF can be opened in Photoshop for any additional work if
desired, and then I save in Photoshop format before I export another
adjusted Tif in case I wish to go back and tweak again.

> For Nodal Ninja, which head should I go for?
> Ultimate M1 or NN4?
> Is it necessary to get the Canon mounting plate for Nodal Ninja tripod head?
>
> I am using Canon 5D2, 8-15mm (i have no tested out which Fish eye lenses
> is great yet)
>
> What does Six around at 5 deg down and one at 30 deg up means? I have no
> clue for that. Is it for the turn around stoppages of 6 stops in total?

I use my NN4 to shot six shots around, with the camera set at 5 degrees
down using the settings on the Nodal Ninja. Then I tilt the camera up to
30 degrees for a final shot. I've found this captures the entire 360
degree area for me and stitches well. I don't need a separate Nadir shot
because I put in a graphic at the bottom.

>
> Please advise.
> Thank you.
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 13, 2012 at 12:25 AM, mcz...@gmail.com

> <mailto:mcz...@gmail.com> <mcz...@gmail.com

> <mailto:erik....@gmx.de <mailto:erik....@gmx.de>>> wrote:
>
> Am 11.12.2012 22:51, schrieb Luc Villeneuve:
>
> Photomatix has a feature to align images. Never used
> because I
> am always
> on a tripod.
>
>
> It works reasonably for moderate to longer focal length.
> For fisheye
> images it doesn't work at all. Special procedures are needed to
> align handheld fisheye images:

> http://wiki.panotools.org/____Batch_merge_handheld_images
> <http://wiki.panotools.org/__Batch_merge_handheld_images>

>
> <http://wiki.panotools.org/__Batch_merge_handheld_images
> <http://wiki.panotools.org/Batch_merge_handheld_images>>
>
>
> --
> Erik Krause
> http://www.erik-krause.de
>
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>
> Boon Ong
>
> Have a nice day ahead!
>
>
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[Boon Ong]

Thanks for sharing!

Finally understand the overall information you given.
In a way, you will have 12 images in total? 6 at 15 degree down, and 6 at 30 degree up? May I ask why not direct up at 90 degree into the sky?

I shall look into NN4 tripod head rather than Ultimate M1.

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[ROBERT HANSEN]

I would suggest the M1 as it gives easier flexibility in using different lenses. 

I started with the NN5 (before discontinued) and went to the M1 for that flexibility.

My NN5 is sitting in its case which is gathering dust.

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[Boon Ong]

Thanks Robert!

Look like I know what to get already! =)

[Boon Ong]

By the way, how do I extract out the nadir view? I need to remove the tripod out and do photoshop on it if required.

[Trey Gafford]

To edit the nadir cube face you can use this great PTGui template by Erik Krause.  http://www.erik-krause.de/index.htm?./ttt/  Scroll to the bottom of the page and find Extract and insert floor image from an equirectangular panorama  Download the .zip file and be sure to read the instructions. To not have to bother with nadir in photoshop watch this tutorial and the ones that follow:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouOEM4cKKGc&list=UUy9iltY8LAOXk5Hk5CIVv3Q&index=12  You will learn to shoot the nadir and use viewpoint correction in PTGui to remove the tripod. Thanks again to Florian Knorn for the outstanding tutorials.

[Boon Ong]

great, i seen this tutorial before and it is well info.

I had the program dl and going to try that soon. Just worry that the nadir view, with floor tiles can be real tricky.