Portraiture is one of the most popular genres of photography for many reasons and photographs of people are often the ones that are looked at the most and for the longest. One style within portraiture that is a staple is the dramatic look. In this video, watch a start-to-finish edit of a portrait with the dramatic look as the end goal.
My first camera wasn't bought with the intention of taking portraits, though I had always loved the genre. Naturally, it didn't take long for me to turn my lens to point at people I knew, but I was never elated with the results. I don't recall what I thought was wrong with them other than that they were lacking in some way. Now I know that the key reason they were lacking was that they were lacking a direction. They were merely snaps of people. There was no mood, or theme, or vibe; it was as plain as could be.
Then, in a magazine on photography I had a subscription to at the time, there was a half-page tutorial on how to get moody and dramatic portraits. It involved a bit of HDR, a lot of contrast, and heavy-handed use of the High Pass filter. Looking back, it has not aged well, but at the time I was thrilled and it sent me down a road of portraiture that continues to this day. While I don't create anything like I did back then, I still regularly aim for the dramatic look.
Robert K Baggs is a professional portrait and commercial photographer, educator, and consultant from England. Robert has a First-Class degree in Philosophy and a Master's by Research. In 2015 Robert's work on plagiarism in photography was published as part of several universities' photography degree syllabuses.
While Dynamic Skin Softener (DSS) is a good product and it can be dialed in to get similar softening results, I found the advanced eye dropper and some of the presets in Portraiture to be a big step ahead of what Dynamic Skin Softener can do.
To see what I mean, compare the screen shot above to the shot below (taken from Mac, but both work the same way) and notice the mask preview on the right. By sampling various spots on the image I was able to isolate most of the skin with minimal impact on the rest of the image. The remainder can usually be ignored or masked off with a quick black brush stroke when you return Photoshop, but I usually just leave it alone and most of the time I can isolate my selection to just the skin very quickly.
Seasoned DSS veterans like me can use both products equally effective, but I still have found that the default settings in Portraiture are better to my personal preferences. This coupled with the fact that I can make fast adjustments in one pass means I get a a time advantage in my image processing my workflow that make it worth it the switch.
Both products create good results, but I find that DSS is a little more aggressive by default. Both products allow for adjustments so this can be addressed in the user-interface or by simply changing the opacity of the skin softening layer, but I find the defaults in Portraiture more suitable to my tastes.
This example for Portraiture uses color enhancements, but this can easily be disabled by clicking off in the Enhancements panel shown in the screen shots above. I used it because it saved me a processing step, but others may wish to do that in Photoshop or Lightroom directly.
My advice here is do what you like. You are the photographer, and your work is a reflection of you so do what you like the most. Top Photographers like Jill Greenberg have made a name for themselves by doing unrealistic skin enhancements, so while some people might complain about your level of skin softening (as they do with Jill) others will call it your style (as they also do with Jill).
Once I had my skin softening done then I selected the teeth using the quick selection tool, created a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer to adjust the teeth color. I removed a little saturation from the yellow channel and added a little lightness on the master channel. I learned this trick and others I used on this photo from Scott Kelby. You can read a bunch of tricks like these in his book The Adobe Photoshop CS5 Book for Digital Photographers.
My last steps to this image were a little dodge and burn on the eyes, a visit to the warp tool to narrow the face, and I used the digital reflector filter in Color Efex to add some additional light and color to the face. I sharpened the final product with Sharpener Pro.
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This guy really knows what he is doing! I bought this plug in and can not believe how much time it saves and how great the portrait photos turn out. Also, the instruction video is superb. If nothing else, try the free trial version first.
Yes, I have. I'll be posting the results in an article soon.
I still prefer portraiture, but for those getting started they may find some of the other things that Portrait Professional can do to be a welcome addition to their workflow.
A good analogy is that Portrait Professional is much like P mode on the camera - it helps to do a lot of things automatically, which is great when you get started. Once you know what you are doing you rarely go there and find other modes like Aperture Priority to be superior. Portraiture is part of a more advanced workflow like Aperture Priority on our cameras.
Hey,
I just use Imagenomic Portraiture.. it's relly wonderfull..
But i have a question: after using the imagenomic on any picture, scales are seen on them how can i remove this lines..
thanks a lot
Free Download Imagenomic Portraiture 3 Photoshop Plugin full version for lifetime usage WinRAR compress file. imagenomic portraiture 3 you can integrate into adobe photoshop cc version and then you can easily use it for your editing purpose. You Can Also Download Alien Skin Exposure X4 Photoshop Plug-in.
Imagenomic Portraiture 3 Photoshop Plugin has available more useful features for your photography or image quality improvement. Portraiture 3 some useful features name skin smooth, remove and clear texture, such as hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, brightness, contrast, and more. these all features can be applied to your photography or images also within just one click.
One of the important features included in the Imagenomic Portraiture 3 Photoshop Plugin is the automatic mask builder that helps you identify the skin color that you can customize if you want to customize it.
I love working with natural light, I always have. Even more so now that our digital cameras have sensors so incredibly capable of making images in extremely low light. Making portraits using natural light only is a good skill to learn so you can make photographs anywhere. Here are some tips to help you mast nature light portraiture.
When you want to make a series of portraits using only natural light, you first need to be aware of what the light is like at your chosen location and the style of portrait you want to make. Is the quality of light hard or soft?
Placing your subject so they are slightly inside a shaded area, but close to the bright sun, can allow the reflection of the sunshine to have a very helpful effect in lighting your subject. So long as your subject is not too far away from the bright light you can make use of the reflection to add a more interesting dynamic to your portraits.
Of course, making portraits with the rich morning or evening sunshine (often called Golden Hours), or even subdued light can produce very pleasing portraits. Be careful though not to have your subject look directly ahead into the sun as they will typically make an unpleasant face. Backlighting or side lighting your subject at these times can be more effective and more comfortable for your subject. Diffused morning and evening light is lovely to work with as it is soft yet can still be quite rich and warm toned.
If you like making portraits in natural light on a cloudy day because you find it easier, sometimes try shooting on a sunny day. Stretch yourself to learn some new technique. You may discover something new, a new way ot working that you really enjoy.
The best thing about it is having control over how the sun lights my subjects. I set it up so the sun is behind the backdrop. Above the backdrop is a fine gray nylon screen to filter the sunlight. The light reflects off the ground which is a light colored earth and works well with Asian skin tones, or a large plastic sheet. I have more recently introduced a large reflector too and am achieving some very pleasing results.
Next time you head out to make some portraits try something different with the light. If you prefer sunshine, make some in the shade as well. If you prefer a cloudy day challenge yourself to go out in the middle of the day when the sun is shining and find a location where you have some good light. Remember, the only time you cannot make a photo is when there is no light at all.
Contrary to the previous responders, I found color filters to be essential for B&W portraiture. My standard filter is orange, I'm not sure how else you can (easily) add contrast to the picture. Darkroom work is no substitute (as someone suggested above), as changing paper grade produces totally different effect. For the reference, I use mostly Fuji Acros in 35mm and 6x7. Give it a try, you may like the effect. Color filter do the same thing to B&W film, whether you're shooting landscapes or studio portraits.
The truth is that you should filter at all times in B&W - you should use a yellow filter as a standard (B&W is too sensitive to blue, the yellow filter will create a correct tone balance) and use the others as needed for really pro results. With all the crappy, undercontrasty shots on this site, it should be obvious that most people ho never use B&W filters don"t know what they're talking about - or are shooting digital.
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