Driver Pixel

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Oswalda Shutte

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Aug 5, 2024, 4:28:31 AM8/5/24
to prosoonunun
Controllingup to two separate pixel strings is easy with the compact RC4Magic S3 DMXpix Dual Pixel String Driver. Winner of the PLASA London Award for Innovation, the DMXpix enables users to create beautiful, one of a kind pixel effects for a variety of different pixel strings, all without wires. The DMXpix is also eligible for the RC4Magic Two-Year Warranty, the best in the industry.

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I cannot find the proper drivers for ADB for my Google Pixel C tablet. I'm developing on Windows 8.1. I have the latest USB drivers from Google, but they aren't recognized as compatible when I select them for this device. I'm guessing if I manually chose the ADB Interface from my list of drivers, it would work, but Windows gives a warning when doing so. Has Google released their drivers anywhere with the Pixel C in mind?


I was able to use the current Google USB drivers, but had to modify the android_winusb.inf to include the PID and VID for the Pixel C. I can now connect the Pixel C to my windows comptuer using either a USB 3 cable or a USB 2 cable (with one end being USB type C).


The next project I'm looking to mess with is creating a basic model for a pixel driver using the WS2811 three-channel PWM IC. I'm interested in the pixel strings places like Adafruit carry, but I'm looking at being able to control much larger pixels than what I'm seeing (upwards of dozens of RGB LEDs). To that end I'm looking at having a WS2811 IC driving three beefy MOSFETS via optocouplers, that way I can attach the driver to any sized pixel I would want to. I was hoping to throw up my basic schematic and see if anyone sees anything that's going to cause an explosion before I construct my first test (parts are currently on order).


I haven't examined every aspect of your design but you will deffinitely need some pulldown resistors on the gates of the mosfets. Your opto's will charge the gates but there is nothing to discharge the gate for the off period. There are some elaborate mosfet driver designs out there, but usually a simple resistor from each gate to ground will suffice and stop the mosfet from potentially staying latched on due to gate charge. Mosfets have a very high gate input impedance so it could take several seconds or more for the gate voltage to leak away without them. Also, without any pulldowns the high input impedence will leave the mosfet very susceptable to EMI (electro magnetic interference) in the enviroment which could have the effect of them switching on at random if electrical or RF noise is close.


Something like 10K - 100K resistors should work fine atleast as a starting point. The value shouldn't be too critical in this applicacion, just whatever you have in that sort of range in your junk box.


Don't forget, although you have a GND indicated on the drawing you have no actual connection terminal for connecting the ground/0v to your power supply etc. I'm sure that's just taken for granted but if you made it up on a PCB you would have to bodge that connection on somehow later on.


I had forgot the pull downs when I threw the schematic together, my bad. So out of curiosity you are saying that the gate charge would drain 'back' through a pull down to ground? I guess I just assumed that charge would have bled to ground out the source (though not why I had them left off :p)


Essentially yes. The gate on a mosfet can be thought of as a capacitor, holding the voltage that is put on it, with respect to ground. It may discharge eventually, through natural leakage, but the resistor will speed the process up. We are talking picofarads of equivalent capacitance, so it's not a lot of charge but it is enough to potentially hold the device on, given the high gate input resistance (i said impedence earlier, my mistake, been awake all night) there is very little in the way of leakage to pull that small charge back to ground and shut the gate off. It may not even be a problem but it is certainly good practice to not leave the gate input effectively floating after the voltage has been removed. It's similar to leaving unused input pins floating on a logic chip for instance, the logic state is unpredictable and just picks up noise or other static charges in the vacinity. Not to mention the floating input could actually be damaged by the high voltage of static electricity.


I hope that helps explain it, to the best of my abilities anyway. I'm sure there are people who can explain it in much more detail, right down to atomic level but hopefully this will suffice enough to get your circuit working close to what you expect.


I have no experience with the WS2811 to be able to comment on that part but i'd be interested to hear your results. I assume it's PWM so the opto's should couple that right through to the mosfets unless it's some absurd frequency above the maximum limits for the opto's and fets. I doubt it on an LED driver though.


I'm following the official Web Installer instructions, and having trouble getting Windows 10 to install the Google USB Driver (with fastboot) onto Windows 10 via the Computer Management tool. Could I get your help / advice? Below is my experience so far.


"On Windows, you need to install a driver for fastboot if you don't already have it. No driver is needed on other operating systems. You can obtain the driver from Windows Update which will detect it as an optional update when the device is booted into the bootloader interface and connected to the computer. Open Windows Update, run a check for updates and then open the "View optional updates" interface. Install the driver for the Android bootloader interface as an optional update."


This approach has not worked for me. Windows does not provide drivers no matter how many reboots or update checks I do within Windows Settings, with and without the phone plugged in directly to my laptop's ports via an OEM cable at different stages of the process.


"The best drivers for your device are already installed

Windows has determined that the best driver for this device is already installed. There may be better drivers on Windows Update or on the device manufacturer's website.

MTP USB Device


I've searched on the forums, and the best answer I've seen so far is to remove the generic windows drivers first, then try installing the Google USB Driver. By right clicking Pixel 7 in the Windows Computer Management tool, I can see the following options:


Apologies in advance for the long message, I just want to make sure this is easily searchable for future aspirants to GOS.

Big love to you guys - this is my first post and first try at installing GOS after years of observing the project from afar. Seeing Proton's fundraiser was the vouch that tipped me over the edge, and now I'm a full-fledged pilgrim in search of the promised land. Thank you very much for the work you do.


To get Windows to download the fastboot driver make sure you have it set to even download drivers, and also, it might show as kind of an odd name, for instance mine was "LeMobile Android Bootloader Interface"


And this part doesn't necessarily mean the driver isn't installed. I initially had the same problem but it turned out to be a cable/port issue, so try different cables and ports if you can. The only way I was able to get the browser to consistently recognize the phone, and complete all steps, was by using a usb-A to usb-C cable in a 2.0 port specifically. Both C to C and A to C in 3.0/3.1 ports did not work.


Yep, I believe this is already the case. Whenever I click the "check for updates" button, usually 1 or 2 Intel and Dell drivers are downloaded and installed. But seemingly none are related to Android / Google USB Drivers.


There doesn't seem to be any other options that specifically enable extra driver downloads within Windows Settings.

I do always select the "optional updates" dropdown and include those.

I've even gone into:

Settings -> Windows Update -> Advanced Options -> Enable "Receive updates for other Microsoft products when you update Windows"

But nothing new shows up after that.


The only way I was able to get the browser to consistently recognize the phone, and complete all steps, was by using a usb-A to usb-C cable in a 2.0 port specifically. Both C to C and A to C in 3.0/3.1 ports did not work.


1) Disconnect your phone from the computer

2) Open an admin cmd prompt

3) Type the following in the command prompt window:

set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1

4) Type the following in the command prompt window:

devmgmt.msc

5) Look in all relevent sections (Human interface devices, System Devices, Universal Serial Bus controllers) then right click & uninstall any drivers related to your pixel. They should be greyed out if the device is disconnected, as it should be. Take your time, be thorough. Make sure you wipe out all references to your pixel and only your pixel.

6) Next, confirm your pixel has the "OEM unlock" toggle enabled, then reboot it into fastboot mode.

7) Connect your pixel to the computer using the originally packaged USB cable. Wait until the computer tries to recognize it. We expect it to fail.

8) In Device Manager, right click over the new, unknown device that is your pixel and select Update Driver. Choose "Browse my Computer for Drivers."

9) Now, you should have unzipped the driver folder from the Google download and put it on your desktop or somewhere similar where you can find it easily. Point to this folder when prompted and the driver should install.

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