Insidethe gingerbread house, you may recognize the (now very old) cardboard kitchen I made about 2 years ago! It fit perfectly inside the house, and Clara has been very busy baking up pretend gingerbread cookies and serving up plenty of pretend hot cocoa! Emily has been busy crafting up signs for both inside and outside of the house, and helping customers select the perfect holiday treat!
Along the outside of the house, is an old shoe rack with some pretend candy treats for plenty of imaginative playtime fun! Some cut up stripy straws made great pretend peppermint sticks. You could also use pipe cleaners to make candy canes! Some cotton balls were great for pretend marshmallows, and craft pom poms make perfect pretend gum drops!
Just returned from Lowes and the Dollar Tree with the materials to make our own life-sized gingerbread house! I saw this on Pinterest this morning and knew I HAD to make one for my daughter! Now to figure out how to put this thing together!
I love the cardboard gingerbread house. As a retired school teacher, this could easily be made and used in your classroom. Little ones would love it. It could also be used as a reading nook during the holidays. Also as a new grandmother, my little granddaughter would love this! Love all the crafty ideas!
This is a totally awesome idea. We have so much leftover Halloween candy that a candy store would be perfect. We recently made some cinnamon rolls out of homemade play dough that would look so cute to serve out of the gingerbread house. -cinnamon-play-dough-recipe
Will definitely share!
I own the 50mm f:2.5 macro lens. This lens will focus to 1/2 life size but to get to life size Canon states that I need to buy their unique adapter which costs an arm and a leg. What is the advantage of using the Canon adapter/converter instead of using s simple extension tube?
It is true that you can change the focusing distance of the EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro lens by simply adding an extension tube to it. To achieve anywhere close to life size magnification (1x), you would need the EF 25 II extension tube.
The disadvantage is that you do not quite hit the target of life size magnification with an extension tube and you are adding an extra 25mm to the focal length, which changes the working distance. The Life-Size Converter allows you to achieve 1x life size magnification while keeping the working distance and focal length shorter, which is great for copy stand work or photographing large, flat artwork.
The advantage of extenders ("teleconverters") is that they can be used for more than close-up work. They effectively increase you magnification, but at the cost of image quality and light (the 1X costs a stop of light, I believe the 2X costs 2). But you can turn a 200mm lens into a 400mm.
The extension tube on the other hand just moves the lens element further from sensor. If you imagine a projector, move it further from the screen and the image gets larger. But the screen (sensor) stays the same size, so the image in effect gets enlarged. Extension tubes have no glass elements, so there's no loss of image quality. You do lose light, since part of the image falls outside the sensor. And most of the cheap extension tubes don't have wires for the electronics so you loose all communication between the lens and camera (read: no autofocus). But it lets you focus closer than the minimum focusing distance of the lens. That's how you get a higher magnification. The downside is that you have to get really close to your subject. You also lose the ability to focus to infinity, but that doesn't effect most macro photography.
I think that I have failed to make my point regarding the adapter that Canon recommends for use with this particular lens. I understand the difference between teleconvertors and extension tubes. That is not my question. Specifically, Canon makes an adapter that is designed to be used with the 50mm F:2.5 macro lens. This adapter is matched to that lens and, as far as I know, to that lens alone. It is not advertised as being a teleconverter but rather an converter that allows this particular lens to record images at life size or 1:1. This adapter does have some glass in it and certainly does look like most teleconvertors. Canon lists it on their website as the "EF Lens Life-Size Converter" and is priced at $210. So, my question is why do I need a special life-size converter for this lens when all lenses can be focused closer just by using an extension tube?
I had the EF-S 60mm for a while and was well-pleased with the performance of this lens. But the "catch" is that the EF-S lens is for use on Canon bodies that have APS-C sensors. If you have a full-frame camera, the EF 50mm compact macro and the life-size converter can be used on a full-frame body (although on full-frame bodies, most folks tend to want 100mm or longer focal lengths on their macro lenses.)
Thanks for your input, Tim. I use the 50mm on both apc and full frame bodies and I have been extremely pleased. The 50mm on my apc camera effectively makes it an 80mm lens which turns out to be ideal for how I use the lens. My query into buying the Canon converter versus using an extension tube was more of an academic curiosity than anything else. I really have no need to photograph anything at 1:1 but I have used extension tubes in the past to enhance the close focusing capabilities of my lenses and so was wondering why extension tubes were not recommended by Canon. A Canon rep posted a response which you may or may not have read but his explanation seemed plausible to me.
Over the past eight months I have been working on my dream project, a life-size Iron Man 3D print. I am still planning on writing up a longer article about my experience and the various things I did (and would do differently); however, I figured I would share some of the details as an intro.
First and foremost, I have always wanted a life-size nerd statue (I blame the movie The Benchwarmers, or the TV Show, How I Met Your Mother); either way, I have always wanted one; however, I could never justify spending $4k - $6k for a statue. Over the years I had thought about 3D printing it but I was still a novice, and I was having nothing but issues with my Creality 3D printers. Then I watched a few reviews of the Bambu X1C, and thought it seemed pretty easy to use, and I think the best way I heard it described was to think of it as a tool to make the hobby, not the tool being the hobby.
38 rolls of filament. Since you are not modelling yourself, it will probably be difficult for you to create a hollow body with a 5mm thick wall. I have started doing this in the past and started making a hollow body because of the material consumption and weight. According to my calculations and those of the slicer, I would have needed 10 rolls of PLA to print a lifelike figure about 1.70m tall. It is worth optimising the print settings. Even if you print full bodies, you may be able to save up to 50% material. No matter how much you save in percentage terms, optimisation should be worthwhile given the size and quantity of filament.
Hi,
Many models can be split and then welded together if needed. I also look for models that allow the use of magnets. All these models were printed on the X1C without too much trouble. (Note. Apart from the Iron Man Mk5 Helmet. That was a purchase :).
As a child I absolutely loved Pokmon, I spent countless hours on the Gameboy Classic, trying to catch them all and also collected the cards. Therefore the Pokmon franchise still has a place in my heart and reminds me of my happy childhood.
More than two years ago I had the idea to build a life-size Squirtle fountain. But living in a small apartment, this didn't seem like the most practical idea. By now we are living in a house with a garden, but we are renting it and in about two years we are going to move into our own house. Therefore I postponed the idea and instead decided to build a Charmander lamp that can be used on the inside and the outside. The flame turns on automatically once it gets dark (or when you turn the solar panel around like I have done in the first picture). It has a fading mode, can be used to emulate a flame or turned on permanently. The mode can be selected with a switch.
Every time I see it, it makes me smile and reminds me of all the good times I had as a child. This is by far the biggest print I have ever done with more than 270 hours of print time. Now that I have created the lamp I really want to make the fountain and a life-size Bulbasaur planter.
Next, use the select tool and mark where you would like your cut to be (as shown in the second picture). Then select "Edit" (still in the SELECT tool), pick "Plane Cut". And cut as close to the flame as possible. Pick "Slice (Keep Both)" as the cut type. In order to separate your two cuts, you will have to click on "EDIT" and then "Separate Shells".
In order to make positioning the thread easier (and since Fusion 360 has a polygon limit), I duplicated the flame, cut it at a length of about 23 mm, and kept the bottom part (as shown in the fourth image). Export the bottom part of the flame as an STL file.
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