Vector Rally Game

[Mirtha Shikles]

Itlooks like despite some article the two electronic solutions are different so it cannot be just update with another products firmware. Moreover: the left and right pedals cannot be paired if they are not the same (I mean you can pair the left Vector3 to the right Vector 3 and you cannot pair the vector3 to the rally.)

Note that on a dual-sided Vector system, the left side is considered the master/primary pedal, and all communications funnel from the right side to the left side. Further, the ANT+ ID and BLE name shown on a bike computer/watch/app will match the ID shown on the left spindle, just next to the side of the crank arm.

Also, as noted, the pedal bodies now have metal threads vs the plastic threads, which should significantly reduce people threading their pedals from overtightening, an issue with earlier Vector 3 (they had iterated the thread materials once or twice already in Vector 3 in the first year).

As always, I set out to find that out. In power meters today, one of the biggest challenges is outdoor conditions. Generally speaking, indoor conditions are pretty easy to handle, but I still start there nonetheless. It allows me to dig into areas like low and high cadence, as well as just how clean numbers are at steady-state power outputs. Whereas outdoors allows me to look into water ingest concerns, temperature and humidity variations, and the all-important road surface aspects (e.g. vibrations). For reference, the Garmin Rally series has a claimed accuracy rate of +/- 1.0%.

In my testing, I generally use between 2-4 other power meters on the bike at once. I find this is the best way to validate power meters in real-world conditions. In the case of most of these tests with the Rally series pedals I was using these other power meters or trainers concurrently in three basic configurations:

There is a difference between our zero offset calibration and temperature compensation. The zero offset is influenced by temperature at the time it is done which is the meaningful difference we expect between your rides after looking through the data. Our temperature compensation is then used to ensure we maintain that offset throughout a ride if the temperature changes to protect against drift.

Additionally, our Auto Cal feature does have some limits on how much it is allowed to change the zero offset which we believe you would have been outside of from your outdoor to indoor ride. The reason for that is we do not want to accidentally get a bad zero offset in the middle of a ride if the customer stops and happens to say, have one of their pedals leaned up against something.

It looks really darn good. Super crispy. Very happy with this. Especially since I had just moved this set to a different bike right before this ride. I merely did 3 short sprints, then calibrated (zero offset) again, and called it done.

As you can see, the Rally XC200 and 4iiii left-sided unit seem to roughly agree the most. Whereas the Quarq seems a bit higher than the others. For all these sets, I did calibration in two groups. First, after arriving at the MTB location, I took the bikes out and let them chill outside for 10-15 mins, then I did a zero offset. Then, 10-15 minutes into the ride, I did another zero offset.

So when the ground noise increases, it appears that SRM/Garmin/4iiii are basically being more hesitant on the surges, and recording a lower power value, whereas Quarq is letting it fly- and doing so faster. As a result, once you apply a longer average to it, those higher surges pull the whole line up above others.

(Note: All of the charts in these accuracy sections were created using the DCR Analyzer tool. It allows you to compare power meters/trainers, heart rate, cadence, speed/pace, GPS tracks and plenty more. You can use it as well for your own gadget comparisons, more details here.)

Note that aside from pedal interface type (SPD/SPD-SL/LOOK KEO), all remaining specs on Rally are the same across all units. And again, you can mix and match your own comparison charts in the product comparison database.

Note: If you got the pedal body conversion you would get the new threads. The only part I think you do not get with Vector 3 and conversion would be the newer electronics. Eg. Battery life. I stand to be corrected.

Hi Ray, as far as I watched in your body replacement video, all the electronics is belong to the body, isnt it? so conversion kit will supply new electronics so old spindle + body can give us new electronics?

well, see it again, the battery holder and maybe some parts put on the holder is reused. but strain guages will came with the new bodies? After all, do we need open-end torque wrench to mount it on the crank arm? does the ant ID staty same or changed?

Just an FYI, You commented on the different base plate for the batteries on the Vector 3 vs the Rally, is really not quite right. The updated plate for the Vector 3 has the same design and came out over a year ago with the update kit along with the new outer cover. You might want to get the replacement for your Vector 3s, it is better

They should be shipping out immediately (in fact, some went out Monday at a local bike shop). However, as Will noted, you could pickup a pair of Vector 3 and then a conversion kit. In some cases that might make financial sense.

So although the Rallys are approx 50% more expensive than the equivalent Vectors, the fixed price of the conversion kit eats up most of the saving on the single-sided ones (but not for the double-sided)

Why are we now suddenly seeing SPD-SL power meters (Garmin here, and Favero working on it)? I thought manufacturers had deferred from doing this all this time due to patent issues and Shimano holding the patents. What has changed?

Though ironically, I think I can roughly accomplish the same thing by heating up the shed, and then jumping on the bike, turning off the heater, and then just opening the doors to let it cool down to outside March temps at night.

Hi Ray,

thanks for the review!

Now with both Garmin and SRM offering their SPD options there is no reason for using a crank-based power meter on a road bike anymore (unless you already have one).

I think they have missed the point here. Really expensive pedals. Right now you can buy Favero pedals for half the price and can be converted to mtb too (it is a bit clunkier but it can be done).

Rest to be seen wahoo, but seeing how wahoo prices their products ther will be closer to 1500$.

I think the thing with pedal based power meters is that you can get to 95% of the development process with no problems, but getting to the point of a finished product is insanely hard; just look at the first two Vector attempts. Because pedal-based power meters are situated in such a vulnerable place they take such a beating that they have to be sure that they operate reliably. It has taken four years for Garmin to come up with a new version, that is scarcely different to the Vector 3, and the main differences having been requested years ago.

All repairs were covered by Garmin and I eventually returned the pedals for a refund. BUT: If the bearings have not been redesigned on those Rallys, I would have zero confidence in the product and would not use a pair if they were given to me for free.

Bearings are part of the pedal body which are available as conversion kits. Conversion kits will work just as well as spares for bearing or body damage. Apparently the body swap well in the realm of user-serviceability (Ray has a video of the process).

Either way, we can all start confidently buying power meters again without so much worry of being blindsided by announcements which is a step forwards. I bought a TT bike in 2019 and have been swapping my Vectors onto it while waiting for this announcement rather than giving Garmin more of my money. Now they can have that money :)

I kinda hoped they would go down to $999 for the set. At $1099, the Garmin at 40% discount is basically the same price as the Assioma, considering that I would have to pay sales tax on the discounted Garmin price.

Garmin is notorious for misleading their clients and offering solutions to not functioning products that they know will not solve anything. They should have done a full recall for all Vector 3 pedals. Properly fixed them and only then send new ones.

My question is, should I bother spending 250$ on the new spd housings for my vectors 3 pedals? My concern is that they dump support for fixing errors with the vector 3 pedals then I would have spent money on new bodies for nothing. Or are the vector 3 electronics the same as the rally?

My understanding from the threads previously on Vector 3 is that the accuracy is fine with kneesavers/spacers, but that there are other concerns Garmin has. Full details here: link to forums.garmin.com

This is really interesting. I currently use Shimano SPD-SL cleats, but if the Look cleats are comparable, then I might as well buy the Vector 3s and just change my cleats, rather than buying the Rallys or the Rally Conversion Kit.

Hi Ray,

did you have the chance to test power measurement with the flat pedal adaptors? I had a look into the one offered by Decathlon, they are quite soft rubber made, I wonder if those would give meaningful data.

a) Is it possible to adjust the 2x signal of the singel-side power pedal? (E.g if you know left foot produce 52% of the power you should be able down reduce the 2x so the power doesnt show 104% of real-power)

b) Does the XC100 box contain two pedals. One with sensor and one dumb-pedal?

Glad to finally see the Vector 3 pedals get replaced. I was working for Garmin product support during that debacle and we really did what we could but it was never a fun call. Personally, I would like to thank everyone who worked with us and stuck around to see all the issues resolved.

Ray, is there a requirement to have both pedals or can someone get good use from a single power pedal? Back when I had a Computrainer, my L-R power numbers were pretty close even over long rides (usually 51-49ish), so I wonder if I really need power on both pedals. It would sure save a lot of money if I went with only one. Also, if you went with only one, would it make sense to install it on the weaker side or the stronger side? Thanks in advance, and thanks for another great product review.

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