By Chris Beingessner
While you sit and watch, he will take working parts off of other bikes he has
for sale, and replace the defective ones on your choice. Usually these
improvements are offered without any increase to the price.
Once the initial shock of Phnom Penh's insane traffic wears off and the cost
of getting around on motorbike taxis kicks in, there's a good chance you may
be tempted to pilot a motorbike of your own.
One option is to rent - you can expect to pay $50 to $60 a month for a 100 or
125cc scooter style bike and $180 for a 250cc dirt bike. Prices like this
make purchasing a bike of your own an appealing option if your stay in Phnom
Penh is longer than a few months. But before you do, you should educate
yourself on the potential pitfalls.
When we moved to Phnom Penh I purchased a 250cc Honda dirt bike within a
month. I had heard I needed a 250cc for safety reasons (Khmers are afraid of
them, I was told) and also to have some power to negotiate through the
traffic. However, within a month I had sold it and purchased a 100cc Honda
Wave. I found the dirt bike cumbersome in the heavy traffic, and since my
driving was utilitarian - I didn't drive in the countryside off of paved
roads, but just to work and back - rather unnecessary. However, that's just
me. A lot of people like the height of the dirt bikes, as well as the
available power. To each his own.
There is a lot of information out there about purchasing Dirt Bikes, so I
won't go any further than to say that I personally recommend Dara Bike Shop
on Russian Blvd just West of Monivong. Dara knows his bikes and works
extensively with expats.
If you decide that a smaller moto is the bike for you, you have a few options.
How long you plan to stay in the country will affect your decision. If you're
here for years, you may want a bike that is new and you can be in control of
all aspects of maintenance. However, if you're here short term, maybe you're
not so concerned about burning a little oil if it saves you a few dollars.
You have four basic options - to buy a bike that is brand new, to buy a bike
that is "new" to Cambodia, to buy a bike from an expat who is leaving, or to
buy bike that has been used in Cambodia.
To buy a new bike, check out the shops on Sihanouk west of Monivong. This is
the most expensive option but you know you are getting a top notch bike that
hasn't been abused by anyone (until you drive it off the lot that is.) Be
sure that any price bargained includes a legal plate, registration card, and
road tax sticker. But more on that later.
The second option you have is to buy a bike newly imported to Cambodia. These
usually come from Thailand, Vietnam, or Japan. Some of the shops on Sihanouk
sell these bikes as well, and some are available around Orussey Market. If
you're looking at a "new" Super Cub, but it's from 1997, most likely it spent
the last ten years in Japan. The shop owners will usually be honest with you
about the bike's origins.
These bikes are available more cheaply than brand new bikes and are generally
in good condition. However, take a look at all the bikes before you pick
one - all of the 2003 Waves may be the same price, but some may be in
considerably better shape. Some bikes in the "new to Cambodia" category are
stolen in Vietnam and brought over on the boat. These bikes are generally a
bit cheaper, allegedly because Khmer people tend not to want to drive a bike
with Vietnamese writing on it. Once again, ask around.
A third, and possibly the most economical option, is to buy from a departing
expat. The advantages are that you can get a sense of the bike's history, and
the owner may even be able to provide a service record. However, this takes
patience and a bit of luck. If you are looking for a bike in August or
September, don't hold your breathe. Most expats depart Cambodia beginning in
April (as it heats up!) and the majority have usually left by June when the
international schools get out. August brings the new school year, and there
is an influx of expats - but not a lot leaving.
The fourth option is to buy a bike that has been used in Cambodia. These are
available from the bike market west of O'russey Market. For about half of
what a new moto costs, you have your pick of many makes and models ranging
from Waves to Dreams to Cubs to Daelims.
Stepping inside the market can be rather intimidating, and be prepared to be
nabbed by the first earnest shop owner to set eyes on you who will bring bike
after bike to show you in an attempt to corner you into buying from him.
Don't be afraid to walk away if you see something in another shop that looks
appealing.
Here is also where it pays to do your homework - drive the moto hard, check
the brakes, check the headlight, signals and horn, see if the steering is
tight. The owner will offer to fix any problems you find. While you sit and
watch, he will take working parts off of other bikes he has for sale, and
replace the defective ones on your choice. Usually these improvements are
offered without any increase to the price.
No matter what moto you choose, you will need to do repairs. There are many
stands on the side of the road selling all sorts of moto parts. There are
shops around Russian Market and on Street 271 near Street 182 that will all
repair your moto cheaply.
If you want Western style service at not quite Western prices, check out The
Bike Shop on Street 302. However, don't be surprised to be billed by the
hour - not by the job, as is more common at Khmer shops. Another alternative
for service is Dara Bike Shop, mentioned above, and he bills by the job.
Expect to pay a lot less than you'd expect to pay if you're coming from a
first world country.
Another consideration when buying a moto is theft. No, I am not suggesting you
steal one. You should, however, consider the very real possibility that
someone might try to steal yours. If you have the flashiest, fanciest moto
that money can buy, you're unnecessarily making yourself a target for theft.
The Wave I drive rarely gets washed. And not because I'm lazy-well, maybe in
part.
When purchasing a moto, you should be aware of the documentation required.
When you buy a bike, you will complete a bill of sale, including two lovely
thumb prints. If the bike is new, negotiate license plates into the price. If
it is used, be sure you get the registration card as well as the receipt for
the road tax sticker. You will need this to get next year's sticker.
A note on registration cards and plates: Fake plates and registration cards
are common in Phnom Penh. When buying a bike without a plate, you may be
asked if you want real or fake. To tell if a registration card is authentic,
tilt it. The reddish Angkor Wat pictures in the background should change
colour, much like a hologram. If they don't, your card is a fake. Also, newer
plates (these are blue, not black, and have the province name on them) should
be riveted to the back of the bike, not bolted. Legal registration is more
expensive and time consuming. However, all it takes is one ornery police
officer unwilling to negotiate, and your illegal bike is impounded or
otherwise disappeared. If you are fluent in Khmer, this might be less of a
concern.
Like anything in Cambodia, buying a moto will be a bit of an adventure - look
at it that way, smile, and hopefully at the end of your hunting you end up
with a bike that satisfies your needs.