The Sims 2 Ds License Plate Locations

[Beverly Zielonko]

ProductThe Sims 4

Platform:PC

Which language are you playing the game in? English

How often does the bug occur? Every time (100%)

What is your current game version number? 1.63.136.1010

What expansions, game packs, and stuff packs do you have installed? All but Eco Lifestyle, Magic, and Moschino

Steps: How can we find the bug ourselves? Place a dirty plate on a coffee table or dining table, AND one on a half wall. When sim is directed to clean plate on table, they pick up plate then put it down numerous times, then give up.

What happens when the bug occurs? Sims do not clean plates when one is on a half wall.

What do you expect to see? Sims to clean up plates regardless of the plate location as long as it is accessible by the sim.

Have you installed any customization with the game, e.g. Custom Content or Mods? Not now. I've removed them.

Did this issue appear after a specific patch or change you made to your system? Yes

Please describe the patch or change you made. Update 6/10/2020 PC: 1.63.136.1010

Sims do not clean plates when one is on a half wall. Place a dirty plate on a coffee table or dining table, AND one on a half wall. When sim is directed to clean plate on table, they pick up plate then put it down numerous times, then give up.

I can confirm I've noticed the same thing. I try to drag all the plates from the half wall to another service. If possible I try to add the half wall toppers that stop sims from being able to place things on half walls (the ones that come with Dine Out and Get Famous), but it's not always feasible to do that. An alternative is to put small deco items on the half walls so they can't be used for plates, etc.

@SimGuruNick I sent you a message with a save and with a link to a video (specific point in the video) which shows the maid having issues, though in the end when I realized it was causing issues I just dragged the dishes off the wall and put them on the counter and then the maid was able to clean. I had also noticed my actual sim putting the dishes back too, so it's not just the maid having the issue.

Product: The Sims 4

Platform:Microsoft XBOX One

Which language are you playing the game in? English

How often does the bug occur? Often (50% - 99%)

What is your current game version number? Sdx 10.0 (latest on console)

What expansions, game packs, and stuff packs do you have installed? Get to work dine out city living jungle adventure seasons spa day cool kitchen vintage glamour

Steps: How can we find the bug ourselves? Build a half wall near the kitchen of active household. Put a ledge on the half wall. Half wall is slightly taller than average. Have sims create dirty dishes. They will sit them there until they cannot anymore.

What happens when the bug occurs? Sims will put dishes on ledge until no more fit. They will attempt to clean up but will not. They will sit the dish back in the ledge of the half wall, even if you manually ask them to clean up.

What do you expect to see? I expect not to see dishes piled up on the wall. I expect if sims put their dishes there that they are able to also clean them up autonomously and manually.

Have you installed any customization with the game, e.g. Custom Content or Mods? On console - never used.

Did this issue appear after a specific patch or change you made to your system? Neutral/Not Sure

In the context of a sim-racing rig, adding haptic feedback involves taking telemetry data from whatever sim-racing software is being used, and turning it into realistic rumbles and vibrations that accurately simulate what might be felt if one were sitting in a real moving race car e.g. engine vibrations, road imperfections, kerb rumbles, collisions etc.

Those who are considered to be experts on the subject suggest that isolating the transducers from the frame of the rig is the best way to go, and basic scientific logic dictates that they must be correct. But nowhere have I been able to find an explanatory guide as to how to go about this. The gurus among the sim-racing community also suggest that positioning multiple transducers of different sizes in various places enables one to 'layer' different effect frequencies on top of each other in order to fine-tune the haptic feedback to very specific parts of the body. Again this is surely correct but I have neither the time nor the money to take this approach, so I have gone for the simplest (ish) and cheapest route in the first instance, knowing that I can add more transducers later if I wish.

So without further ado, and with gratitude to all those giants upon whose shoulders I stand, there follows what I think is the first walkthrough of how to build a basic isolated transducer haptic feedback system for an '8020' aluminium extrusion sim-racing rig. Whilst I am an ex-engineer, I am not an acoustics expert and I am just as fallible as the next sim-racing enthusiast, so if you feel anything that follows is wrong or could be improved, please add your comments below.

The problem with this total visual and aural immersion though, is that despite the haptic feedback of the force-feedback steering wheel, road vibrations and kerb rumbles suddenly become very noticeable by their absence (if you are used to driving or racing for real). To counter this, and to increase the immersion even further, we need to introduce haptic feedback to our sim-racing rig.

The tried and trusted method of introducing haptic feedback to a rig is to install bass shakers (tactile transducers), which are essentially sub-woofer speakers without the cones that would otherwise turn low-frequency sound signals into sound waves. One bass shaker attached under the seat is often a good starting point, but this can easily vibrate through the entire rig and into the floor, upsetting the household and even the neighbours. Adding multiple transducers in different places can increase the immersion, but there is a fatal flaw in this concept that usually gets overlooked: that of mechanical noise transfer whereby sound travels very efficiently through solid objects.

The single most important factor when building a sim-rig is rigidity or lack of flex. The higher the quality of the rig, the better the rigidity and the less flex in the frame between seat and pedals or seat and wheelbase. It is highly unlikely that a few millimetres of flex is going to be noticeable to even the best of drivers, but rightly or wrongly, this has become the default measure of a quality racing rig: complete rigidity; zero flex. So when you strap or bolt a bass shaker to one part of the rig, its effects are going to travel to every other part of the rig due to the mechanical transfer of vibrations along the tightly bolted-together framework.

Isolation or containment of sound waves is key to making haptics work. Not only in maximising the separation between the front and rear haptics, but also in reducing - as much as possible - the vibrations feeding from the rig to the floor and on to the rest of the building. But isolating mechanical sounds involves adding rubber mounts and avoiding metal-to-metal contact, which can introduce flex into the system, so we need to be smart with how we go about this.

In essence, we need to bolt our rear transducer directly to the base of our seat, then add some rubber vibrational cushioning between the seat's frame and the seat's mounting bracket or rails, whilst removing all direct metal-to-metal contact.

We could use cylindrical rubber bobbins for this, but the amount of flex through lateral shear is difficult to predict and impossible to control. A better solution, in my opinion, is to use vibrationally-isolated nuts and bolts clamping (in an adjustable way) rubber stand-off washers (thick rubber spacers) that can be added to or removed, offering further adjustment options. The same goes for the pedals but we need to keep any additional construction to a compact profile, especially if like me, you have long legs with knees that sit close to the wheelbase mount i.e. we should avoid raising the height of the pedal base any more than is absolutely necessary.

When it comes to using a signal to drive our transducers, we could start with a basic audio feed from the sim racing game, but there is a terrific program called SimHub which allows us to extract and manipulate mutli-channel race data coming direct from most sim-racing titles including GT7. SimHub is available for free, but most people are happy to contribute between 10 and 20 Euros for a licence. It can be downloaded from

SimHub only runs on a Windows PC, so if you use a Mac, Linux or a Chromebook, you may need to either run a virtual Windows machine on your Mac, or buy a basic Windows 11 laptop, which you will also need for driver updates if you run a Fanatec wheelbase. I bought an Asus E410MA laptop from Currys for 199 and it runs SimHub just fine.

One thing I would add is that I noticed a roughly half-second time lag between things happening in the game, and feeling the effect through the transducers. This is a widely reported issue with no common solution. However, I found that connecting to the amp via a USB cable instead of Bluetooth reduced the lag, and then going into the SimHub Settings menu and disabling all Games except GT7, and all Plugins except the Shakeit Bass Shakers, effectively eliminated the lag after a restart.

There are dozens of different audio solutions available with regards to sound-cards, amplifiers and transducers, most of which are quite expensive. You are free to use whatever equipment you wish as what follows can be adapted to almost any equipment on any aluminium profile or tubular rig. However, given that one particular combination of tried and trusted products is considerably cheaper than all others, these particular products (shown above) are what this article covers:

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