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Tabatha Pasqua
Savory, tangy, and just barely sweet pickles are an absolute must for a well-stocked kitchen and this easy recipe for Korean Pickles with Soy Sauce with only a few ingredients will make it easy to keep your fridge full all season. Even better, the universal, all-purpose soy-vinegar brine can be customized to your taste and used with just about any vegetables! Shall we?
In case you haven't figured it out by now, vinegar-based "refrigerator" pickles are an essential part of almost every Asian cuisine. In this house, they are an addition to almost every meal. Sometimes, straight out of the jar, the pickles ARE the meal.
Korean Pickles, known as "jang-ajji" or 장아찌, are a type of quick pickled vegetables. The pickling brine is a basic salt-and-vinegar brine similar to the one used for pickled radishes, carrots, and onions. However this jang-ajji version replaces plain salt and then some with tamari or soy sauce for that added salty, savory, umami-richness.
Though the most common vegetables are radishes and cucumbers with onions and garlic for added flavor, you can use just about any crispy, crunchy vegetables that are available or in season. To be honest, the vegetables don't even have to be all that sturdy. Softer, leafy vegetables like perilla/shiso leaves, scallions, ramps, and garlic scapes all work as well in the same vinergary brine. Add jalapeo or other fresh chile pepper for some heat.
I make these Korean Pickles and eat them with just about everything. They are a perfect stand-in for some of the vegetables on bibimbap, or even just a bowl of steamed brown rice/quinoa. I also eat these Korean Pickles straight out of the jar with chopsticks. You know, like a salad.
All of these dishes are made from crisp, refreshing radish and served as little side dishes known as banchan. However, kkakdugi, mu-saeng-chae, pickled radish, and mu namul are all distinct from one another in the way the radishes are cut, prepped, and seasoned.
Pickled Korean Radish aka Chicken Mu 치킨무 is a type of vinegar pickled radish made from Korean radish that is cut into small cubes and pickled directly in a vinegar brine. Chicken Mu gets its name because it almost always accompanies Korean Fried Chicken!
Pickled Daikon Radish and Carrots aka Do Chua is a Vietnamese preparation of julienned daikon radish, sometimes carrots, pickled in a sweet and sour vinegar brine similar to Korean Pickled Radish.
Spicy Radish Salad aka Mu-saeng-chae 무생채 is a type of vinegar pickled radish. However, unlike Chicken Mu, this version is seasoned with salt, sugar, and sometimes a little bit of red pepper. Since it's not fermented, you can also call it a salad. I LOVE this and used to buy giant pre-packed plastic containers of it from the Korean grocery store. And yes, I did eat it straight from the container.
Kkakdugi 깍두기 is a type of radish kimchi, seasoned with spices and then fermented, which gives it its natural tartness. Korean radishes are almost always cut into small cubes similar to Chicken Mu, but spicy and fermented. There are a few different types of kimchi made from different radishes; kkakdugi is this one shaped like cubes!
Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" can be healthy! Depending on your health needs and dietary considerations of course. To be honest, I can't really think of a case in which Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" would not be healthy, unless maybe the gentle acid in the vinegar brine causes heartburn or other gastric issue for you, or you are sensitive to the sodium in tamari/soy sauce.
Though they are a root vegetables, Korean radishes are considered non-starchy vegetables so they are appropriate for low-sugar/low-carb lifestyles. And did you know that radishes are part of the Brassica family, the same family as broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kale!
Radishes provide vitamin C, which along with a few other compunds, give radishes anti-cancer and anti-diabetes properties. Studies have shown that radishes also support healthy liver function and can improve cardiovascular health.
The traditional pickling brine for Korean Pickles has a foundation of vinegar, soy sauce, and sugar. However, I use apple cider vinegar for the fermentation benefit, gluten-free tamari instead of soy sauce, and maple syrup as an unrefined sweetener, which adds a level of flavor beyond just sweetness of plain sugar.
The recipe is called "Korean Pickles" not only because it's a Korean dish, but because one of the most common ingredients is Korean radish, called "mu" or "moo." In addition to Korean radish, there are garlic, onions, and jalapeo peppers, which provide much of the flavor and heat.
After that, you can add just about any seasonal vegetable to the mix, though my preference is usually for crunchy, sturdy vegetables like cucumber, celery, a small pale green squash called chayote, kohlrabi, and turnips. Because the soy sauce-based brine is already dark, you don't have to worry about the color of the vegetables. Everything will turn some shade of beige-ish brown.
Tamari is a Japanese soy-based sauce, and generally fermented without wheat, so it is gluten-free. If you can tolerate gluten, you can use regular soy sauce. This is the organic brand of tamari I use, available at Whole Foods and online
Maple Syrup. Normally, I use plain white sugar or none at all when making vinegar pickles to keep the color of the vegetables. But since a soy sauce pickling brine is brown, I use my generally preferred sweetener maple syrup, though still in afairly conservative amount. I use an organic maple syrup. You can substitute with other sweetener of choice.
Any other fresh herbs and produce from either the Santa Monica Farmers' Market on Wednesday, Mar Vista Farmers Market on Sunday, or Whole Foods Market when I can't find what I need at the farmers' market.
Stir together soy sauce, rice vinegar, maple syrup, and cup hot water. Pour soy vinegar brine over vegetables. There should be some airspace left; fill this with additional hot water. If there is no air space, well, that's why we only started with half the water. Cover the jar and refrigerate.
Allow the vegetables to pickle for at least 2 hours before serving/eating. After 2 hours, the Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" will taste lightly pickled. After 1 day, it will taste even better. Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" taste better and better each day.
As I say for just about any recipe, there isn't any special tool or piece of equipment required to make Korean Pickles with Soy Sauce. You can make it using a sharp chef's knife on a sturdy cutting board to cut the radish! However, that isn't to say there are a few tools that might make it slightly easier to get the Korean Pickles with Soy Sauce from the farmers market to your fork (or chopsticks)!
Refrigerator. You can keep Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for two weeks as long as you use clean utensils every time you remove some of the Pickles from the jar. Technically, pickles can last for weeks because that is the point of pickling, but 1) you will probably finish eating a quart-sized jar in a matter of days, and 2) the "weeks" assumes you don't open the jar and use your own dirty chopsticks to tke two bites out every few hours.
The recipe for this Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" is forgiving in terms of ingredients, measurements, and technique because it is not "canning." There is no sterilizing of jars, no precision microbiology, no watchfulness required, just adding vinegar brine and placing the jar in the fridge.
Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" is considered "banchan," a term for a broad category of side dishes, often marinated, pickled, fermented vegetables, some cooked, and some meats. When the main event is something heart like Galbi Jjim, the crispy crunchy texture of Korean Pickles "Jang-ajji" is the perfect counterbalance.
Pile the Pickles over a bowl of fluffy steamed rice along with some of the tart pickling liquid from the jar and now THAT you can call a dead-easy weeknight dinner. If you really want to get fancy, move it from the kitchen sink to the table and add any of the little dishes in the next section!
Supposedly, I am allergic to cucumbers, which makes it a curious thing that I'm not-so-secretly obsessing over the pickles at Joan's on Third, which I haven't touched in almost a year because of please-see-first-six-words-of-this-run-on-sentence.
And from the sound of how some food allergies could oh, possibly, say, develop from extraordinary over-consumption of said food, my cucumber allergy could have everything to do with oh, possibly, say, eating an entire container of Joan's on Third pickles.
There is one last time for everyone and everything in life. I hugged my maternal grandmother for the last time on the evening of 11th December 2020 in Bangalore, a few hours before I boarded my flight back to Mumbai. I thanked her for being the best grandmother, relived my childhood memories with her, expressed my gratitude for all that she had done for me, sought forgiveness for the time I may have hurt her, told her that she will live through my work and gave her the assurance that she is in a safe place and will be divinely guided and protected through her next journey in life. I felt the lump in my throat and could hear the thumping of my heartbeat when I sought her blessings, well knowing that I would never be able to see the teary eyed face whenever she saw me go, again! In the wee hours of 12th December 2020, she was gone!
As I write this, my mind races back to the time when I was a little girl in her Bangalore home in the 1980s. My earliest memory of a kitchen is her kitchen with a pantry of neatly lined dabbas (cases) with shelves demarcated for cooking ingredients and prepared delicacies. In those dabbas, one would always find all the ingredients to rustle up a delicious meal and treats like laddus and chaklis for guests and afternoon snacks. My first memory of cooking is making pickles under her supervision. Her kitchen was my culinary playground and proved to be the best culinary institute that I could have attended in life. It was here that I was introduced to tastes, textures and flavours of ingredients and it was here that I got lessons on how to marry spices, grains, legumes and vegetables to produce the best flavours that a tongue could taste!
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