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Also, earlier LEGO plates used a square locking pattern on the bottom, which is very loose too, or at least has become very loose over time. Apparently this changed over the course of the decade, as I have 1960s LEGO plates with both the old and new locking patterns. The new pattern makes for a much tighter fit. Note though, that the rounded corners in the plates (even in the ones with the new pattern) do not have the now-usual dents, so they can not be placed over larger plates as modern LEGO plates with rounded corners can.
Still have my 1960s lego. They were a more serious hobby type toy back then. HO scales cars and buildings. More architectural related. Later Legos seem to evolve in more whimsical toy like product. No true scale etc.
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I build these by constructing a frame, then building a support that keeps the pieces in place until I am done building. When finished, I lift it up, and the frame will hold the pieces together without the support.
Now you start building. Small tweezers are especially helpful here, because they will make it easier to move the parts into position. These are difficult to design, but not to build. As I set the windows up to take pictures, I knocked the larger window off a desk, and rebuilt it from memory in about twenty minuets. It is likely that these would be for the 16+ age group.
Use of it is simple. Pour out some Future in a small bowl. Dip the clear LEGO pieces in the polish, making sure that the LEGO piece is fully covered. Then set the LEGO pieces aside to fully dry (I recommend setting them on baking parchment-paper). The liquid acrylic floor-polish is self-leveling and will fill any micro-scratches or minor flaws in the LEGO piece. Once fully dry you can lightly polish the LEGO piece with a soft cloth. (Really only needed for large flat pieces). Other than a light polish no special handling is needed once dry.
The end result? The parts will be crystal-clear. Canopies will look like glass. Jedi Light-sabers will seem to glow. Windows will be sharp enough to see minifigs through and cast a reflection. Gems and jewels will sparkle as the tempting loot that they are meant to be.
Liquid acrylic is basically a clear very dilute acrylic medium based floor polish used primarily on no wax floors such as linoleum. The main name it is known by in the states is Future floor polish. (I know it has a different name in the uk and Europe. ) it is a colorless perfectly clear liquid normally in a clear colorless bottle. It should say somewhere on it that it is an acrylic floor polish.
As far as what it is? It is the clear liquid base used in the manufacture of acrylic paints. The fact that it is essentially the same stuff as what is used in the manufacture of clear plastics allows it to work unbelievably as a filler to repair micro scratches.
Thanks. I was curious how long it would have to set up for. I have some bricks that I have had since the mid nineties, and since I was a kid, I was not too nice to them. One final question: For parts that are composed of two different elements, one clear one ABS (the old submarine windows) that are difficult to remove, would it be better to try to apply it with a cotton ear swab, lens paper, or better to avoid trying it out at all?
I would use a swab or a paintbrush and then buff it with those. This method will fix the micro scratches that cause the piece to dull, fog and seem more plasticky. It will also repair or reduce minor scratches. Major deep scratches from long time rough play or outright cracks will not completely disappear.
Actual drying time will vary with temperature, humidity etc. At a minimum I would let it set overnight. To be completely safe give it two nights. Unless you have a dehydrator to use (Thank you Ronco!) in which case it only takes a few hours.
Lego is made mainly from 2 different types of plastic. ABS for the bricks and acrylic plastic for the clear parts ( ok technically you also get some styrene in minifigs and some vinyl in special heads and torso pieces).
This trick works to repair acrylic plastic. The way it works is you are essentially painting a new micro thin layer of that same substance so it bonds to the original. This is further helped by the floor polish variant having a very low surface tension, which lets it spread out, fill and self level.
Clear acrylic can be used on printed Lego canopies. The printing is just acrylic paint to begin with. Although I would recommend testing it in a limited manner first to insure that no unwanted color shifts occur.
One other warning or provision. Be cautious where the dreaded stickers are involved. In cases where you will be applying stickers to canopies, such as the newer version of the Star Wars ARC 170 Starfighter, dip the canopies and let fully dry before stickering wherever possible. I have not tested how well Lego stickers hold up under submersion.
Stephan, so sorry to hear about your experience. Unfortunately any super-glue like product is going to damage LEGO. The white haze you see on the bricks is the damage done by the glue. It is not possible to clean it. If the damage is not too deep you may be able to sand it off with Brasso (yes, the brass polish). Brasso is often used to remove printing from LEGO elements and also to give them back their shine. You just pour some on a piece of cloth and buff up the LEGO element. Make sure you wash it off very well afterwards.
Allie, I wish I would know for sure, but this is what I read on Wikipedia: Pledge is a cleaning product made by S. C. Johnson & Son. In other countries it is known as Pronto, Pliz, and Blem. I hope that helps because this method really works. I have just recently tried it myself and I was amazed by the result!
Andy mentioned acrylic plastic in his article, not pure acrylic, but you are right, the more technical term is PC polycarbonate for the clear LEGO elements. The point though, is that the method Andy describes, does work. I tried it myself on a number of clear pieces, and it works amazingly well. I was very surprised with the result when I first tried it on some heavily scratched and clouded elements. So he may have not used the right term, but his hack is solid. ?
Dave, I assume you are referring to using Brasso for removing print. When you use Brasso, you have to work in light, circular motion, using a soft cloth or cotton ball. If you go too fast, in one direction only, or use more abrasive cloth, you can damage the surface of the plastic, which makes it appear dull.
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