How To Thread A Juki Overlocker

[Lauren Redder]

Thenew easy threader feature allows you to effortlessly thread the machine by sending the thread from the threading hole to the looper with a strong whoosh of air sent from the electric motor. This amazing function dramatically alters upper and lower looper threading.

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You may remember that I was on the hunt for a good serger this spring. My Brother 1034D was having timing issues and I didn't want to spend the money to get it repaired again. It was an old machine and I was never very attached to it, primarily because it was louder than a dozen rusty wrenches thrown in a broken dryer. Thankfully I picked up the Juki MO654DE this spring, and I couldn't be happier with it. I thought I'd share my thoughts in case you're thinking about purchasing or upgrading a serger/overlocker yourself this year.

Sergers are one of those pieces of equipment that many of us put off buying, either because of the cost or because they seem a little scary. Even the cheapest ones are a small investment, but most sergers are surprisingly easy to use, and they really do transform your sewing practice. You get much stronger, more professional seams when sewing knits, and you can save time when sewing wovens by quickly finishing your seam allowances rather than using french seams, or other more time-intensive finishes. If you're on the fence about making the serger leap, I'm here to whisper in your ear, "Just go for it". You won't regret it. My serger is an indispensable tool in my arsenal, and I'm so glad I upgraded.

Juki sergers always get rave reviews, and a few of you suggested I try one. Amy heard from her dealer that Juki sergers use a lot of the same components as industrial machines, and are basically among the best on the domestic market, higher priced brands included. I've never minded threading my serger so I didn't need anything with fancy auto-threading capabilities - just something strong, reliable, affordable and easy to adjust, tension-wise. Buying machines on the internet without trying them out first can be a little stressful, so I tested the entry level MO644D model at the Juki dealer in Montreal. I loved how smooth and quiet it was, but I wanted something with a little more power.

The MO654DE is a step up from the 644D, although they look very similar. The machines are surprisingly small and compact; the 644D is recommended for light to medium weight fabrics, while the 654DE can handle multiple layers of thick fabric with ease. I was initially concerned about the lack of a free arm, but I haven't had any issues at all, even when serging narrow, round openings.

When I first got my Juki in the mail, I was so excited to test it out I sewed a test seam without looking at the threading first. I had a mild panic attack when I realized I had sewn through the thread tails, but discovered quickly how much easier it is to thread than my old Brother. With the colour coded guide, it only takes a few minutes from start to finish, and if you're tying on new colours of thread to your old tails, you shouldn't have to fuss that much with threading anyway. I found the lower looper especially easy to thread; in the photo below, you can see how it slides to the right when you push on the white lever -- no more squinting to see if you threaded it correctly or not.

So far I've found it really easy to adjust the tension. Unlike the Brother, which had dials on the top, the tension dials for the 654 are all on the face of the machine. Most fabrics do well on the 4 setting, but if you're having issues with tension I suggest looking at tutorials online or checking out the serger chapter in Colette Guide to Sewing Knits, since the instructions included in the manual aren't super thorough.

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