Toyota 1nz-fe Ecu Wiring Diagram

[Boleslao Drinker]

Irequire a wiring diagram and pin-out for 1nz-fe, specifically for the variant available in axio (E140). I've been digging the internet for some time but havent found much specifically for the variant. I would be very grateful if anyone can help me source the wiring diagram / pin-out for the said engine / ecu. Thank you.

@ser_gtr

I've tried searching by vitz rs, yaris and corolla. Will give premio a try too. Please do let me know if you find anything related to it. What i've mostly come across is stuff for the older model too.

I do not have the exact pinout for it but even if i get a pinout, that would be good enough. I'm planning for a 1nz swap so doing my homework before plunging into it because me and a friend will be doing the wiring bit ourselves.

I havent purchased the engine, ecu and wiring yet but will be heading down to the place on saturday inshaAllah. Here is one of the ecus that was available when i went there last week. This one's from a 4wd of course but will be looking for a 2wd one. As per my knowledge, these ecus are sealed and would be a nightmare to open i could be wrong though.

The kabariyas say that the wiring would be uncut but I dont completely trust their wiring hence the need of wiring diagrams in case the wiring has been fiddled with. If it comes to that, tracing the wires through continuity would be the only option.

Hi,

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way.

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again.

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.

This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine.

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)

The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm.

As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off.

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm.

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold.

There didnt look to be a particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage.

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.

Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.

Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over.

Results - were amazing!

Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.

Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.

Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.

I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot.

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis

I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed.

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.

Come to drag day.

I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation.

(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake.

I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it.

I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo.

And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with.

Hi David, I really enjoyed reading up on your build !

I'm planning to turbo a 1nz and have a few questions, could you possibly send some more pictures of the wiring adapter? I'd really like to use something similar as most tuners here simply hack up the stock harness. Secondly you happend to have a wiring diagram and do all factory sensors work on the Link ecu?

Any help would be massively appreciated.

Hi, sorry for the slow reply.

I cant remember the wiring exactly, but it wasnt too hard to trace the wire colours back to the plugs on the motor to tell which ones were sensor ground or whatever. The factory engine/loom splices the grounds for the cam and crank sensor together to one wire.

Sorry I dont really have any other pics. It's just a plug cut out from a factory ECU, then wires soldered onto the pins and heat shrink over the top.

Then at the other end, just crimping on the terminals that plug into the link ECU.

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.

Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing.

So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.

Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.

Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.

Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function.

AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD!

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it.

So I could just concentrate on the brakes.

Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time.

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better.

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.

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