Mega 8k Printer

[Bazara Benavides]

Phrozens most daring and audacious piece of work is finally here: Sonic Mega 8K. In the past, printing out large models meant compromising on print quality. If anyone was interested in printing out large-scale & detailed models, that meant printing out multiple batches of 3D printed parts and assembling them together.

Not Anymore. Sonic Mega 8K breaks every single limitation for commercial 3D printers. You can now have both size and quality in one print, at the same time. From regular table-sized Resin 3D Printed Miniatures to large 3D printing terrain that covers your whole table, or even body armor for festivals such as Halloween, Sonic Mega 8K simply prints out all your ideas with stunning 8K resolution.

Welcome to the Phrozen US Store. Catering exclusively to the US market, we offer a wide range of professional, user-friendly 3D printers designed for industrial, medical, and personal use to unlock limitless possibilities with state-of-the-art 3D printing technology solutions.

Hi guys,

i have build Config for the Anycubic Mega X Printer, that i want to share with you. There was no config file for this printer available. When using the Anycubic i3 Mega config, you will crash your Y axes, because the Mega X has a different sensor that reads different on the micro.

I think you have to modify it a little bit. At least the extruder section and maybe the dir and/or enable pin configuration for the stepper motors from the axis depending on if these pins on your new drivers are active low or active high

@Bizkit83:

With Klipper all changes are done in the config file, no firmware recompile needed. In klipper you change the polarity of the stepper signals simply by adding or removing a ! in front of the PIN name.

Its a good idea to use klipper with Repetierserver because you kann change the config file directly from the web interface.

I just unboxed and assembled my new Anycubic Mega S 3D printer, and found Cura as the interface software. The first thing it asked me was to select a printer. However mine was not one of the choices. The following are the settings that I was able to glean from the manual... obviously incomplete. Can someone help me correctly complete this?

I have the ANYCUBIC MEGA S also, which I just purchased. I was struggling with the same issue, as the i3 and Zero are listed on the dropdown on Cura's installation menu, but not the "S." After doing a bunch of fiddling around and research, I learned that the "i3" option will work flawlessly. The settings for the i3 and S are identical. This may save some people a great deal of time and headache, knowing this.

Hello

I know this error code is common, and i have read lots of post on how to fix it, but nothing is working for me. Long story short, the Adriano was working and loading new firmware to the printer fine, but then the "ghost in the shell" decided to stop making it work.

There is a bug in the Arduino IDE that will cause this when you do a File > Save As with the Marlin 3D printer firmware or other sketches that put source files under the src subfolder of the sketch (that folder is not saved along with the sketch files from the root folder.

Mega Pro is an FDM 3D Printer from Anycubic. This machine is a close brother of Mega S (improved i3 Mega). With a build volume of 210 x 210 x 205 mm and all good features included into Mega S, this machine is a decent affordable printer with a small twist. Mega Pro includes an interchangeable laser module, which allows using it not only as a 3D printer but a laser engraver, too.

Mega Pro utilizes a full metal frame, which increases the structural stability. The printing bed is guided by two rails rather than one, which makes the Y-axis movement smoother and reduces vibrations on the sides of the platform. Electronics are enclosed in a metal case under the printing bed, and the overall cable management of the machine is fine.

Leveling on Mega Pro is actually a semi-auto one. The machine comes with a sensor that you install onto the nozzle to help you tighten or loosen springs underneath the print bed accordingly. This method is a bit more time-consuming, however, such a model of the sensor is quite accurate in measuring the distance between the print head and the bed. It will require some testing and learning but once you get a hold of it, your bed leveling process will become smooth.

Mega Pro comes with a 1.5W laser head with 450 nm wavelength, which can be installed instead of the extruder. Such 2-in-1 machines are handy in terms of taking space at the workshop and saving some money but usually lack in one department or the other.

3D printers are a modern day marvel. It's as close as we get to the Star Trek Replicators, so far. You can print just about anything and I'm not talking about just little trinkets, we're talking useful stuff, especially for the RC hobby. I've always thought 3D printers were cool, but figured they were too expensive and I had to know how to use a CAD program to make stuff and I just wasn't up for that. I later learned about Thingiverse where people post the things they've created and you can download the files for free and print them. This makes it more accessible to the average person who just wants to print without worrying about designing parts. When Gearbest offered to send me the AnyCubic I3 Mega printer for review, I knew it was time for me to get in the game so I jumped on the opportunity.

***Disclaimer - This review isn't coming from an expert in 3D printers with a thousand hours and countless machines. I'm a complete newbie that's excited to learn and share my experience with this printer from a first timer's perspective.

While some printer kits will take you upwards of 12 hours or more to assemble, the I3 Mega takes less than 12 minutes to put together. Once everything is unpacked and laid out, you just lift the base over the frame assembly and set it in place. There are 4 screws used to secure the base to the frame. After that, you can connect the 3 wire harnesses to the base. The connectors are color coded and different sizes so you literally cannot plug anything into the wrong slot. The default power setting is set to 220V, so if you are on 110V power, make sure you move the switch to the 110V side. After that you need to.... oh wait, that's it, you're done assembling the printer. It could not have been easier.

OK, the printer is put together, but we're not quite ready to start printing. The spool holder takes 4 screws/nuts and you'll spend a minute or two pulling the protective paper off the acrylic panels. You need to install the roll of filament that was included and run it through the filament sensor and into the extruder. To insert the filament into the extruder you need to squeeze the lever to allow the filament to pass through. Run it into the tube a little bit, but do not push it all the way through to the nozzle at this point in time.

To use the printer you'll need to navigate the software using the color touch screen. The screen is responsive and the UI is not complicated at all making it intuitive to use without looking at the manual. When you turn the printer on, you get a splash screen and then the main menu appears. On the main menu screen, you can see the hotend and bed temps. The left number is the actual temperature and the right number is the target value. You also see the Print, Setup and Tools buttons.

The Tools section will allow you to home the printer meaning it will put the bed and nozzle at the home positions. You can also move each Axis individually, preheat the unit, cool the unit, run the extruder motor in or out, reset the unit, calibrate the touch screen and get help or info from the More section.

The SD card includes an owl pair that is ready to print, but it also includes a copy of the Cura slicer software. I'm not going to go into Cura, but it is what you can use to take STL files from Thingiverse and turn them into the GCode file that the printer needs to be able to print.

OK, before you can print the test owl pair included on the SD card, there's a couple of things you need to do first. You have to level the bed, but don't go reaching for your bubble level. We're not talking level with the ground, bed leveling is a process where you adjust the bed height in relation to the hot end nozzle. To get started, turn the printer on, click the Tools button, then Home and then Home All. This will move the bed and the nozzle to the home position. Now you can either turn the printer off or go back to the main menu and click Setup and then Motor. Both of these methods will turn the motors off so you can move the bed and nozzle around manually.

Use a piece of A4 paper (there is one included in the kit for this purpose) and the idea is to adjust the bed height using the thumbscrews under the bed corners. Put the the nozzle over one corner and adjust the thumb screw on that side until the paper can slide between the bed and nozzle. You want to adjust it so that the paper rubs the nozzle slightly with a small amount of friction. When the bed is too high, the paper will be stuck or hard to move, when the bed is too low, the paper will freely move under the nozzle with no resistance. Once you have that corner set just right, do the same process for the other 3 corners. It's a good idea to check all 4 corners a second time after the first pass. Now you can move the nozzle to the middle of the bed and adjust further if needed. Do take your time during this bed leveling process as it is critical to printing. It's one of the most important factors in 3D printing.

Now that your bed is level, we can get ready to start the first print. You'll want to pre-heat the nozzle to be able to insert the filament down to the hotend. Click the Tools button, then Preheat and click the PLA button. You'll see the E0 temp setting change to 190 and the Bed temp to 50. Wait for the left hand number on the E0 to reach 190 and then you can press the lever at the extruder and manually feed the filament in all the way to the nozzle. Once it gets there, you should see filament oozing out of the nozzle. At this point you can stop feeding the filament in and use the tweezers to clear the nozzle.

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