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Mahalakshmi Dhobi Ghat is an open air laundry place in Mumbai, India.[1] It is located at Mahalaxmi railway station in southern Mumbai, it is also accessible from the Jacob Circle monorail station. The washers, known as dhobis, work in the open to clean clothes and linens from Mumbai's hotels and hospitals. It was constructed in 1890.[2]
The phrase dhobi ghat is used all over India to refer to any place where many washers are present. Inspired by the Mumbai Dhobi Ghat (then Bombay), the British built Dhobi Ghat in Kolkata (then Calcutta) in 1902[3] and there are other dhobi ghat places all over southern Asia.
The Dhobi Kalyan & Audhyogik Vikas Cooperative Society, the apex body that represents washermen, estimates the annual turnover of the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat at around Rs 100 crore. For 18 to 20 hours each day, over 7,000 people flog, scrub, dye and bleach clothes on concrete wash pens, dry them on ropes, neatly press them and transport the garments to different parts of the city. Over one lakh (100,000) clothes are washed each day. Some of the wealthier dhobis have given up on manual cleaning and have now installed large mechanical washing and drying machines.The dhobis collect clothes from all corners of the city, from Colaba to Virar. Their biggest clients are neighbourhood laundries, garment dealers, wedding decorators and caterers, and mid-sized hotels and clubs.[2]
Home to the dhobis and their families (around 200 families), the Dhobi Ghat has seen this occupation passed down from one generation to the next. Also known as the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, it can be viewed easily from the Mahalaxmi Railway station. The best time to visit Dhobi Ghat is early morning and early afternoon. While the dhobis are in action in the morning to take care of the washing load, the early afternoons are an ideal time to see the clothes dry.[2]
Shortly after, Zohaib Shaikh aka Munna (Prateik Babbar), a dhobi (washerman) who dreams about getting a break in Bollywood, arrives to deliver Arun's laundry. Arun moves into a new apartment the next day. While unpacking, he finds a small container that had been left by the previous tenant, Yasmin, of the apartment. In it, he finds a silver chain, a ring, and three videotapes (Pehli chitti, Doosri chitti and Aakhri chitti) by Yasmin Noor. The tapes turn out to be video diaries through which Yasmin communicates with her brother. In the tape, she is generally happy and shows her apartment, which is the same one Arun is occupying now. The next morning, Arun is informed by his manager that art dealers, impressed with his art, have decided to open a gallery in Sydney featuring his works. Arun is pleased by this, as it would also give him a chance to visit his ex-wife and child, settled in Australia. He begins to work on a new painting.
Munna continues struggling to find work in films. To earn a living, he washes clothes by day and kills rats by night. He disapproves of his brother's criminal activity but they are close, and Munna's brother uses his underworld contacts to try to get Munna a break in the industry. In the meantime, Munna shows Shai the different facets of Mumbai, including the dhobi ghaat, where he works as a launderer. Munna develops feelings for Shai but is unable to express them, mostly because of his working-class status. One day, Arun spots Shai nearby and invites her to his house. He apologizes for their first meeting. Munna sees them together and feels betrayed but Shai is able to convince him to keep helping her. One night, while Munna is at his rat-killing job, Shai sees him and takes pictures. Dismayed, Munna flees from her.
Though one can see some modern machinery lining the washing stations, most of the laundry is still done by hand. The clothes are first sorted and then soaked in soapy water. After this step, dhobis beat the clothes on the flogging stone. The stalls where the dhobis work date back to British Rule.
Home to the dhobis and their families (around 200 families), the Dhobi Ghat has seen this occupation passed down from one generation to the next. Also known as the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, it can be viewed easily from the Mahalaxmi Railway station. The best time to visit Dhobi Ghat is early morning and early afternoon. While the dhobis are in action in the morning to take care of the washing load, the early afternoons are an ideal time to see the clothes dry.
If you happen to visit the ghat, you can step down the bridge and get informal tours from various dhobis, who are always more than eager to share little anecdotes from their trade with curious travelers.
According to Dev, over 3,000 dhobis live and work here, none of whom are originally from Mumbai. They come to Mumbai from Northern India to work. They pay the government a nominal INR 300 a month to use the wash pens, and an additional INR 1,500 to rent a house which is divided between several dhobis. Each dhobi makes around INR 9,000 a month.
Once dry, the clothes are neatly pressed and sorted using an efficient system that gets each article of clothing back to its rightful owner. In fact, we saw dhobis on the metro carrying huge bundles of clothing on their heads going to and from Dhobi Ghat.
The people who work in the Dhobi Ghat pick up laundry tied up neatly in sheets, stack them up on their bicycles, take them all back to this location, wash, dry, iron, and return the clothes in the same sheet bundle in which they were taken. When I was growing up and visiting India, many of these dhobis (laundry workers) were unable to read-- meaning that when you handed them a bundle of various clothing, they returned every item to you the next day without being able to write, keep track, or catalogue who gave them which item.
At the Chetpet Dhobikhana hens and chickens rummage in the soapy waters around the ironing shed and washing areas even as its residents grapple with water and electricity shortage. Water pumps stand redundant in a corner, the air rings with the sound of clothes slapping stone and the smell of detergent from the starched whites and wrung-out bed sheets permeates the surroundings. Life has come a long way for the families that occupy Chennai's oldest dhobikhana.
SOME OTHERS The Saidapet Dhobikhana is the second oldest in the city and is about four acres in size. Situated on the banks of the Adyar River, the dhobikhana has about 150 families. In Mylapore, opposite Vivekananda College is a small dhobikhana. One can see lines of clothes hanging along the sides of the road and this particular washing area started functioning in 1952.
Old Washermanpet is a 15-ground property where about 70 families of dhobis live. While the families have been working here since the 1920s, the dhobikhana came into existence much later. Vannanthurai in Adyar has over 100 dhobis and comes under the Chennai Corporation.
At the break of dawn, a usually quiet corner of the Lutyens' zone comes alive with the sound of cloth slapping on stone, vigorous scrubbing and gushing water. A narrow alley branching out of Hailey Lane, amidst towering buildings, leads to one of the few dhobi ghats remaining in the national capital.
Devi Prasad Sadanand Dhobi Ghat is a workplace of 64 dhobis. Two dogs, a Chihuahua and a Boxer, stand guarding the entrance of a shed where washed clothes are ironed. Stuffed with hundreds of cloth bundles containing ironed clothes, the shed opens up into a courtyard. An idol of Nagarsen Baba Ghatwale, the kuldevtaof washermen/women and the God of ghats rests in a small temple under a tree.
Despite the fact that it's called a dhobi "ghat", this place is situated a few kilometres away from the Yamuna River. As a result, the dhobi ghat relies on borewell water, chilamchis (cement tubs), hauds (tanks), naandis (pools) and hydras, electric machines that soak out water.
Each dhobi operates independently and follows a series of steps as he goes about his business. First, the clothes are treated with detergent in the chilamchi. Next, they are washed in the haud where the dhobi stands knee-deep in water. This is where the signature "cloth beating" takes place. Once washed, the clothes are left standing in water for half an hour in naandis. Concluding their journey, clothes are taken to the hydras or the spin tubs. Then, finally, they end up on the cloth-line.
Hotels and hospitals are a major source of dirty laundry for the ghat. The majority of dhobis believe that washing machines have disrupted their occupation to some extent, but there are many families who continue to use their services. Dhobis themselves use electronic dryers and other equipment, thus reducing physical labour.
The dhobis of Hailey Lane are originally from eastern Uttar Pradesh. It's their second generation in the business but the youngsters are keen on studying and taking up other jobs. Yet they spend their weekends helping their parents. For them, though, it is too little money for too much labour.
Dhobi Ghat or Dhoby Ghaut is a word used in various parts of South Asia. It means a place where the traditional dhobi caste of washermen and women go to wash clothes. The word usually means a place near a river or stream, in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, but a Dhobi Ghat doesn't necessarily have to be near a source of natural water.
The array of shops just next to the dhobi ghat selling all the these products bears testimony to the fact that all these harmful chemicals are used to clean your garments. The many water tanks within the dhobi ghat has not been cleaned since decades. The garments are beaten by wooden bats or tossed with full force on the washing stones which eventually kills the garments. Your clothes loose its fall and the yarn looses it strength. As a result, your garments are worn out within a span of 6 months, at times even earlier.
And its not just about the cleaner look of the garment, professional dry cleaner, also treats your garments for microscopic bacteria like moth which tends to lay larvae. Since you cannot see it from the naked eye, the garment looks clean. Have you ever experienced itching and irritation after wearing your freshly laundered garment which the dhobi has just left at your place. That irritation indicates your garment is infested with bacteria and germs.
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