Clutch Tuning Handbook Pdf
Vanya Lamunyon
Olav Aaen's Clutch Tuning Handbook
Only: $$26.50
(CLUTCLUTCHBOOK)
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click for larger view Buy this book -- you'll thank yourself for years!
An absolute must for any clutch mechanic or do it yourselfer. This handy handbook by Olav Aaen includes theory and modification of the Comet clutch systems, and the latest info on Arctic Cat, Polaris, Yamaha and Ski-Doo. This handbook is geared toward the serious racer and anyone who wants the most out of their CVT clutching system and yet simple enough for a novice to understand. You'll want to read this great little book from cover to cover and refer back to it's many tuning charts, pictures and troubleshooting instructions.
Revised 2002.
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Clutch tuning is important because it can significantly improve the overall performance and efficiency of a vehicle. Proper clutch tuning can also prevent premature wear and damage to the clutch system.
It is possible to tune your clutch system yourself, but it can be a complex and delicate process. It is recommended to seek the help of a professional mechanic or refer to a clutch tuning handbook for guidance.
Beyond factory CVT tuning options, popular models have excellent aftermarket support it this area. Snowmobile folks have been tuning these things for decades. Companies like Starting Line Products are applying its long-time snow machine tuning knowledge to ATVs/UTVs. Not only does the company have a wide variety of CVT components, but it also has the knowledge and ability to customize kits to fit modified vehicles and meet specific performance goals.
3. The drive clutch spring controls engagement rpm (initial preload) and peak shift engine rpm (final compression). When tuning pay attention to the two spring rates: the spring at idle compression (usually 2.5 inches) and the spring at full compression (usually 1.25 or 1.19 inches). A 120/300 spring would engage about the same as a 120/320 spring, but have a lower peak rpm than the 320 spring. A 120/310 spring and a 160/310 spring would have about the same peak rpm, but the 120 would engage earlier than the 160 spring. The spring also plays a role in controlling the rate at which the CVT changes ratio, specifically how much engine rpm is required to upshift. Changing the spring should be the first step in adjusting clutch engagement and shifting performance.
4. The shift weights work in combination with the driven clutch spring to open and close the drive clutch. The shift weights can be changed in shape and weight to alter the clutch engagement and shifting performance (both up and down). Heavier weights will allow the engine to turn less rpm to upshift and lighter weights will require more engine rpm to upshift. When the drive clutch spring and weights are in proper balance the maximum desired rpm (peak power) should be reached promptly after belt engagement at wide open throttle. Note, changing the weights can alter belt-to-sheave clearance, clutch balance, engagement and shifting characteristics.Adjusting the drive clutch components is just one area where CVT can be tuned. Flip through to Tech Tips in January when we provide even more on driven clutch components and further CVT tuning information.
Cyclepedia Press LLC authors powersports service manuals, a specification database and training modules to help technicians efficiently service ATVs, motorcycles, scooters and side-by-sides. Each month Cyclepedia examines real life shop scenarios with recommended tech tips for handling the problems encountered. For more information about Cyclepedia manuals and professional products, visit www.cyclepedia.com.
Are you experiencing an engine back fire with your snowmobile? There could be a couple culprits, but chief among them are spark plugs that are likely overdue for a change. This video is sponsored by Autolite.
I was browsing back through old posts and came upon one discussing proper use of the clutch brake. Most posters agreed that the only time the clutch brake is used is when engaging a gear to prevent grinding. That comment took me back many years........(flashback here).....
I was working for a sand and gravel company driving a White 2300 dump with the 555 Cummins. They bought two new DM-600 Maxidynes. They had the smaller cab w/green dash, six speed twin stick, but larger Mack letters on the front, which tells me they had to be at the very end run of the green dash versions, late 1973. Anyway, when I finished work on Friday afternoon I was told I'd be assigned one of the new Macks on Monday. I was so cranked up I could hardly sleep the entire weekend which actually crawled by cause I couldn't wait to drive the new Maxidyne. On a whim I grabbed the operator's manual and read it cover to cover over the weekend. And, I clearly remember reading about clutch brake usage, which of course described using it to ease gear engagement when stopped, but it also mentioned using it to shift the transmission faster between gears, i.e, you depress the clutch pedal fully to use the clutch brake between shifts, not double-clutching at all. Well, it worked. When I mentioned that to my boss, he said the clutch brake was only used to prevent rolling back on hills when stopped. I thought he hadn't a clue what he was talking about but kept that opinion to myself. :-) To this day, when describing the procedure I always mention that I learned it from a Mack operator's manual.
So, I got thinking that perhaps someone on this forum remembers the same thing, or better still, someone actually has an original Maxidyne operator's manual that describes this procedure. I didn't post on the original BMT post which would bump it up to the front because it was at least five years ago.
The clutch brake is used to stop the trans gears from spinning to ease in shifting into gear but ONLY when the truck is at a full stop, engaging it while the truck is moving or even rolling very slow will brake it.
I had heard about the old (optional) clutch brake that was not mounted on the main shaft but on the end of the lower countershaft on a 72 series trans. I don't have that type on my truck,but from what I've been told you could use it to shift gears faster than normal.You still double clutched it. On your second clutching,you depressed the pedal a little further to engage the clutch brake,and slow the countershaft to make the shift quicker.Took some timing on the drivers part. MACKS,you're right.You would not want to do with todays clutch brake being mounted on the main shaft. You will tear that thing up in no time! Not a fun job to replace.Although easier with the Babcock 2-piece replacement. Al
Well, that's a relief--at least I didn't imagine it. I've used the technique over the years on many trucks, but not all that often--usually when skip-shifting between gears with a roadranger. I've had numerous assigned trucks over the years and haven't worn out the clutch brake prematurely.
I recall on the early 1076 and 1078 5 speeds the clutch brake was spring loaded so you couldn't shear the ears off them.That was so they could be used for shifting.I'm sure the early 6 speeds had this also. Steve
Right! Not be used like that in today's trucks, for sure. As Jeff stated in his initial post, it was still an option in the early '70's for the countershaft mounted clutch brake. It was listed in the B,G,N,H model Operator's Manual that I have.
The MH handbook has similar verbage. I don't think I push it to the floor when I shift. Reason being, when I am sitting and want to put the tranny in gear I need to push the clutch in until it hits the floor stop. Thanks!
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