"The Bealach na Ba (Pass of the cattle) is not a single attraction, it doesn't have a visitor centre, and there are no visitor facilities as such. But the Bealach is an unforgettable drive up and along one of the most dramatic roads on mainland UK, rivalling many a Swiss mountain pass and with terrific views across much of Wester Ross, the whole of Skye, and the Islands of Rum and the Outer Hebrides."
The signs here are the only indication of what's to come but what a road! My only attempt by car failed as someone had broken down or maybe suffered vertigo just below the hairpins so the road was closed. That was that but to my mind there's no doubting really that it's best by bike especially with sun and some snow on the tops oh and of course switchbacks!?
"I was too scared doing this drive to even contemplate looking at the views. Wouldn't recommend unless you feel very confident about a difficult drive and definitely not for anyone who doesn't like heights.
Can a twisting, winding mountain road be a tourist attraction? When it comes to the Pass of the Cattle, the answer is yes. This iconic single-track Highlands road, known as Bealach na B in Gaelic, links Loch Kishorn to the isolated village of Applecross. It is the third-highest road in Scotland and without doubt one of the most beautiful drives in Britain.
Be aware that the Pass can be closed in winter due to snowfall. There are snow gates at both ends of the Pass, and it is not unusual for the route to be closed for several weeks at a stretch in winter.
Please pay attention to the warning signs that advise strongly against anyone driving a motorhome or towing a caravan attempting the Pass. The route is steep and winding, with numerous switchbacks. Every year, inexperienced drivers of long vehicles are stuck on the switchbacks and block the route, t=requiring a rescue by local breakdown services. If you are driving a motorhome any longer than 18 feet, we strongly advise you against trying the Pass!
The road to Applecross is single-track for the entire way, with signposted passing places. It starts almost t sea level, then rises 626m over the course of 9.1km, with the steepest gradient hitting 20%. The average gradient is around 7%.
The route rises steadily, with numerous switchbacks, to the summit at 2054 feet (roughly 626m). Along the way, you can see several dramatic waterfalls, as the road loosely follows Allt a' Chumghaing, beneath the rocky heights of Meall Gorm.
Remember that though there are passing places, you can't guarantee that there will be a handy one in front of you when you see someone coming from the opposite direction. You must be prepared to reverse into the nearest passing place. Please do NOT attempt the drive if you are wary about reversing on a difficult road with steep slopes and switchbacks!
At the summit there is a small parking area to the left of the road (westward bound). From the parking area, you get staggeringly beautiful views west over the Applecross Peninsula to the Isle of Skye and beyond.
In recent years the state over the summit of the Pass of the Cattle has been a matter of concern for locals. The route's inclusion in the popular North Coast 500 driving circuit has increased traffic and made the Pass a target for motoring clubs. With the increase has come increased wear and tear. There are now more breakdowns and more congestion along the route. This increased traffic has damaged the road surface.
The route to Applecross was begun in 1818, and completed in 1822, with the Mackenzie lairds of the area paying one quarter of the cost. Accounting for inflation, the total cost of the road was over 500,000 in today's terms. The original road surface was rough gravel, which made it very difficult to clear in winter. Tarmac was laid down in the 1950s.
The Pass of the Cattle was used as a location in the filming of the TV series Hamish Macbeth, and in the 1953 film Laxdale Hall, a romantic comedy starring Ronald Squire and Kathleen Ryan (known as Scotch on the Rocks in the US).
Bealach na B is unusual for a climb in Scotland in that it goes over the top of the pass rather than through the valley below like most climbs. Some claim it to be the toughest climb in the UK, which I doubt having climbed Hardknott Pass in the Lake District, but it is certainly the most dramatic in terms of length, scenery and remoteness.
Beast day. Deep into my cycle tour of Scotland, I awoke early, tired. No matter, I set off, belly full of fried goods and the magical energy bean aka coffee. So excited was I that I continually expected Bealach na B to be waiting around every next corner.
Ahead cycle tourist number one began holding up traffic on the single track road, ignoring the passing places. Cue the smell of burning clutches, as with all great UK climbs. I upped my pace to overtake the rider and avoid the traffic in his wake.
On I pushed, the road snaking slowly up at about 10%. Manageable, still seated. Before long I caught cycle tourist number two. She was spinning a good rhythm and we had a brief chat. I advised her to zig zag when the going got tough before wishing her good luck. More of cycle tourer number two later.
Cars continued stalking me as I crawled up, politely waiting until a passing space became available. One passed close, too impatient to wait for the passing place up ahead. Two thirds of the way up and the gradient ramped up to about 15% just as a large delivery truck chugged behind me. I let him past at the passing point, slowing as much as possible without putting my foot down. The truck passed slowly, too slowly and I was about to run out of road until he finally revved past me. Phew. All those track stands in London had finally paid off.
Ahead the final cyclist of the three tourers got caught by the truck and was forced to put a foot down and let the truck pass. I could see the fatigue in his gait. I caught him quickly and pulled alongside for a brief chat. His ego got the better of him and he upped his pace to stay with me. I remained seated and steady whilst wondering if it was my pannier that had spurred him on. His brave fight soon came to an end as he dropped back and we exchanged goodbyes.
The road ahead empty. All that was left to stare at was the gradient increasing and the tarmac going up into the heavens. Behind, a view sculpted for angels, ahead a road to hell. Up, up and up. Four fifths of the climb behind me, the gradient hit 20% and stayed there. I continued zigzagging, not out of desperation but to make my life easier, more in control than I could quite believe.
Pride fills my heart, a smile fills my face. Bang, I attack the hairpins like a national hill climb champion, only seated. Cresting the summit I punch the air. Done. Easier than I expected but no less beautiful for it. Did I mention I was seated all the way? Oh. And I had a pannier? Oh, right. How about my lowest gear of 39*25? I know, hero right?
The descent into Applecross was a pleasure. At the top of the climb I watched the road, waiting for descending traffic to get well clear. This allowed me to fly down, fingers on the brakes just in case. I imagine this descent is pretty darned scary in the wet despite the grippy, smooth road.
A brilliant day out. Dry too. Three out of four days in Scotland without rain (well substantial rain!)? Lucky indeed. Tomorrow there looked to be torrents of the stuff to make up for the arid spell. Oh and a headwind. Super.
What a finish to a great ride. The forecast rain never did arrive but for a brief shower early on and so I enjoyed the 67 mile cruise back to Inverness. What a difference it makes with a tailwind. The ride was so easy it felt like a recovery ride when only days earlier it had been a slog along much of the same roads.
At one point Mark Beaumont, he of cycling around the world in the fastest ever time fame, cycled past me. I felt in good company. Albeit a little slower! My ride may not make any record books but it shall live long as a memory. Thank you Scotland.
Quan Ba is a famous stop along the route of the Ha Giang loop. It is here where you enter the real mountain area of the province, after driving over the stunning Heaven Gate pass with views on the Twin Mountains. If you have time, make sure to check out some of the remote local villages of minority and when you arrive at the right day, you can also see their unique market.
Quan Ba Heaven Gate or Quan Ba pass, feels like the doorway to real mountains of Ha Giang. It is here where the scenery changes rapidly to towering mountains with small villages dotted in the valley. It is around 40 km from Ha Giang City and it has some great viewpoints of the topped limestone mountains. On the top of the pass is a small coffee shop with a view, and with cold weather it is recommended to get a hot cup of chocolate here.
When you head down the pass for Tam Son town there is a parking lot halfway where you can stop and climb the stairs up for an amazing view over the mountains, village down below and the Twin Mountains.
The Twin Mountains of Quan Ba are, as the name suggest, (almost) identical mountains next to each other. It is also called the Fairy Breast Mountains, after an ancient tail of the local Hmong minority, that could whistle so beautiful that a fairy came from the sky and fell in love with him. The Jade Emperor was mad when finding out she was gone and took her back. But because she already got a child with the Hmong man that needed nursery, she left her pair of breast so her son could drink the milk. The pair of breast grow round to feed the child and later turned into two mountains.
There is a viewpoint from the Heaven Gate pass when you are driving down from the top to Tam Son town around halfway. You can park the motorbike or car at the parking lot and take the stairs up for a beautiful view over the Twin Mountains, the town and the mountains of Ha Giang.
Quan Ba is more than the Heaven Gate and the Twin Mountains, there are also a lot of villages to explore. When you are coming from Ha Giang City via the QL4C then there are a few roads after Tam Son Town on your right that takes you down to the river. Along the river you can explore some villages and at the same time enjoy the view of the houses, with river and mountains on the background. When you cross the river you can also find a road that takes you higher up, from which you have an even better view of the area.
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