I currently have 3 kits of the 1/96 Revell Constitution. The original was started by my Father prior to his passing that I have recently pulled out to finish. The other two I have picked up for missing and / or extra parts in the build (warpage, etc). What I didn't expect to see was the difference in rigging instructions. The good news is that essentially they say the same thing, one set goes about it more verbally while the other set is more visually based (this set also had separate sheets for with or without sails). I provide the following comparisons:
I think Revell instructions got cheap as the years went by. It may help you to find supplementary instructions from a more sophisticated set of plans. Some of the rigging parts may have to be replaced or modified. I'm thinking of the deadeye arrangements and the pre formed ratlines. Bluejacket Constitution rigging plans are very comprehensive and may help you out if you can find a set or buy them from Bluejacket if they are not too dear.
Interesting change. This was the ship that started my hobby. I ended up rigging the model in much more detail than the kit using other sources, but always went back to check against the kit instructions because of their clarity. Still think this is a great model kit.
I will add a pic of something this is a better thing added in the newer instructions - Belaying pin identification. The older instructions just have numbers shown on which pin to attach to. The new ones have the same, but a separate breakout that identifies by name what is what.
In the original post, in the second and third pics, the instructions on the left are the older set. The copyright date of the older set - 1966 - can be seen under the "Standing Rigging" title. The copyright date 1976 can be seen on the newer set in the lower left corner of the "Lifts" diagram.
Hello--I have become thoroughly confused by the newer instructions for my 1:96 Revell USS Constitution I have been working on now for close to two years, my first tall sailing ship model. Was wondering if anyone might be familiar with the newer instructions--BOOK 2--that could help me figure out what rigging steps I need to do to complete my model. I'd like to be able to put some sails on it, but not necessarily all sails on it, but still debating that. If someone more experienced than I am can offer me some advice, I'd be very grateful. Man, I am lost!!!
After starting the 1/96 Constitution model around 40 years ago i am now finishing up adding the for and aft staysails. I have a large sheet of instructions for adding the sails and running rigging. does any one have a set of instructions that show the standing rigging specifically the stays. The way I have it built many of them run forward to a block then up or down the mast. I can take and post pictures later.
The file attached shows 2 different symbols on my instructions. 2 of them look "flat" and 2 of them have what I call a gradient through them. I'm maybe mistakedly assuming that the gradient means a gloss finish but I'm really not sure.
If these symbols appear on the painting instructions pages at the end of the instructions, the "gradients" as you call them will correspond to those areas on the model that should be painted that color. For example, if the underside of the model has the gradient listed for D, then it would be painted the color that is called out for the letter D, and the topside would be painted E. The paint colors for each letter in the flag are listed at the beginning of the instructions. If it was a three color camouflage pattern on the topside of the model, then you'd have additional paint callouts with different "gradients" associated with each color, so that you'd know what to paint each section of the camouflage in.
I recently picked up a kit that was in a water damaged box and the instructions were one solid piece of cardboard. Don't need the actual instructions unless you have one you don't need, good printable photos of the pages will do nicely as I intend to build this. Let me know what you'd want for your efforts.
Those instructions are for the new tool 56 Chevy wich came out in the early 2000's, the instructions he asks for is for the old tool kit from the 60's wich is a different kit all together.
I have browsed all Revell albums at the Drastic Plastic Instructions folder as they usually have instructions for most kits, but they don't have anything for the old tool 56 Chevy, I found instructions for the old tool 55 and 57 and the new tool 56 kits.
Thank you very much. My grandfather built a few of the revell models and was going to start one for me before he died. I got it from my grandma but it was missing the instructions. Now I am going to start building it with my son.
The instructions are in about 40 languages, and are barely comprehensible, no matter what language you normally speak. The rigging, particularly the running rigging is simplified a little, and appears to be missing bits and pieces such as jeers and vangs, so your contributions of the old sheets is invaluable, many thanks.
Chuckle, as to saving the instructions, my wife and I have only recently sold the yacht we lived on for eight years and moved ashore. Models of sailing ships and their plans are not things that go with living on a boat.
Alert from Tornado SIG. There are a number of issues relating to the instructions to this kit and the images below show a number of glitches that you need to be aware of if you're building one. The SIG have raised this with Revell, so hopefully the next time the kit is issued it will contain corrected instructions.
Absolutely 100%, do NOT build the kit withouit downloading Brett Green's errata list for the instructions. Some brave soul managed to sort out tyhe instruction issues and managed to document it as well, which led Brett Green to publish it.
It is REQUIRED when building this kit, and it will save your build. Many parts have placement that is vague in the instructions, and many of the nacelle components are handed, a little fact that is missed entirely by the instructions.
One thing about Dragon that you can give them credit for - and other large production manufacturers should take note of ... when the "community" draws their attention to an error (shape, panel lines, rivets etc) ... they'll usually have a good crack at fixing the issue! ... such was the effort with the instruction sheet for the Bf.110 and therefore subsequent boxings of variants - and indeed, re-releases of the C-7 had the amended sheet. It is always good to refer to the erata sheet, though ... just in case you've snagged and earlier edition from somewhere ... Revell's instructions for the kit, I believe, have been checked and certified as "ok" by the community.
As for the Dragon 110 instructions, I found the Hyperscale errata page still missed a couple things when I built mine last year. Having read through the Revell instructions (they're online thankfully for download) they've corrected most of the mistakes.
Reading instructions is not for everyone. Nevertheless, it makes sense for you to first gain an overview before you start the actual building. Read the building instructions carefully and also carefully examine the individual components on the parts trees (sprues) before you detach them. For example, sometimes parts look very similar or there are several of the same part. Therefore, you should compare the parts with the illustrations in the instructions.
Whether you are following the instructions or producing your own creation, a model becomes a real eye catcher when it is painted. For painting your model, we recommend enamel paints such as Revell Email Color and acrylic paints such as Revell Aqua Color.
Important: Do not mix these colour types together!