Regards,
Stephen Hanselman, KC4SW
Datagate Systems, LLC
(775) 882-5117 office
(775) 720-6020 mobile
a Service Disabled, Veteran Owned Small Business
DISCLAIMER:
This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or proprietary information. If you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify me and permanently delete the original and all copies and printouts of this e-mail and any attachments.--
~The Voice of the Pacific NorthWest VHF Society~
You are subscribed to the Google Groups "PNWVHFS" group.
To post to this group, send email to PNW...@googlegroups.com
To read message history, visit http://groups.google.com/group/PNWVHFS
---You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "PNWVHFS" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pnwvhfs+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubu...@gmail.com
I just have to add my nickle's worth to the discussion. If your
rotator is of the Ham-m, Ham II, series of rotators then the
thrust bearing carrying some of the weight of the antenna is
valid. My Japanese made worm gear rotator documentation
specifically states the rotator is designed to carry all the
weight of the antenna system. It has a very large ball in the base
that rotates with the antenna. The thrust bearing is there for
side thrust, only and the documentation states there should be a
small gap between the set screws and the mast.
I bought the rotator many years ago at the Seaside ham fest. Spent so much money, I have never been back! I think it was also sold by Yeasu.
Paul, KD7HB
In all the towers I have run across, the smallest tube in the tapered top sections has the bushing in it. I am thinking that is because of light weight antennas such as TV antennas used a very thin wall mass and the bushing keeps the mast from rubbing on the hard steel of the top section of tower. The bushing cushioned the mast as it twisted and turned and kept it from bending and breaking. It anyone used an aluminum mast on any of the tapered top section you might have seen a grove in the mast right where it comes out of the tower. I didn’t know about a bushing for the larger tubes so I always cut a soup can and slid it down inside between the tube and the mast. Tape it or use a hose clamp above the top of the tube. Always worked for me to keep the grove out of the mast. You really don’t need a bushing if you are NOT using an aluminum or thin wall mast. It has not weight bearing on the rotor or mast. Just sideways motion from turning or wind just rocking the antenna. I have not had any trouble with steel masts and the grove.
The bearing in my opinion has two functions. One is to take some load off the rotor if needed. Either at the top or in the middle. At the middle if you are using a flat plate at the top it helps to keep the mast in a vertical position when you rise the mast (and lock it in the bearing) to remove the rotor. Using a flat plat at the top you should always use a bearing there just to keep the thin metal plate from wearing on the mast not matter what mast you are using.
I have several antennas on a 2 inch aluminum mast and (no bearing and bushing with a tapered top section) with a can around the mast I have had no trouble for years.
Bob
N7AU
--
~The Voice of the Pacific NorthWest VHF Society~
In all the towers I have run across, the smallest tube in the tapered top sections has the bushing in it. I am thinking that is because of light weight antennas such as TV antennas used a very thin wall mass and the bushing keeps the mast from rubbing on the hard steel of the top section of tower. The bushing cushioned the mast as it twisted and turned and kept it from bending and breaking. It anyone used an aluminum mast on any of the tapered top section you might have seen a grove in the mast right where it comes out of the tower. I didn’t know about a bushing for the larger tubes so I always cut a soup can and slid it down inside between the tube and the mast. Tape it or use a hose clamp above the top of the tube. Always worked for me to keep the grove out of the mast. You really don’t need a bushing if you are NOT using an aluminum or thin wall mast. It has not weight bearing on the rotor or mast. Just sideways motion from turning or wind just rocking the antenna. I have not had any trouble with steel masts and the grove.
73, Ed - KL7UW
I believe I've read that the bushings are made of bronze or other soft metal to preclude wear on masts. I long ago stopped using aluminum masts and only use steel. Last time I 'cheaped out' with a 1-1/2 inch alum mast this happened:
before: http://www.kl7uw.com/SATtower_1.jpg
after: http://www.kl7uw.com/Wind-damage12-15-10.jpg
Over the years I have viewed using aluminium for masts as a less expensive and less desireable alternative to buying structural steel tubing and having it galvanized.
(The minimum charges for having steel galvanized tend to offset the extra price of aluminum in my experience. I went down the galvanizing road during my last antenna project and ended up getting several extra prices of steel galvanized as I had already paid for the galvanizing.)
I've also used alumimum masts over the years and would generally rather use galvanized structural steel.
Your experiences may vary from mine.
If anyone can point me to local source of galvanized structural steel tubing suitable for antenna masts that is cheaper than aluminum, or knows of a cheap place to get steel galvanized I'd love to hear about it.
All the best
Mark S
VE7AFZ
I believe 6061 T-6 is aircraft hardened aluminum. BIG difference from regular aluminum. IIRC used small 6061 T-6 tubing, internally threaded on the ends, with ball joint assemblies for tie rods in quarter midget cars for my girls. Very stout stuff.
Based on my experience I would agree that 2" 6061 T-6 would work fine. But like the man said, it is not cheap.
- Steve W7SJT
"Always look for a positive solution then Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome"
"Sometimes it is the people who no one imagines doing anything, who do the things that no one can imagine".....
From: James C <jab...@gmail.com>
To: Edward R Cole <kl...@acsalaska.net>
Cc: n7...@usa.com; PNWVHFS <pnw...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [PNWVHFS] Thrust bearing on a tapered top tower
On Mon, May 16, 2016 at 1:19 PM, Edward R Cole <kl...@acsalaska.net> wrote:
- I believe I've read that the bushings are made of bronze or other soft metal to preclude wear on masts. I long ago stopped using aluminum masts and only use steel. Last time I 'cheaped out' with a 1-1/2 inch alum mast this happened:
- before: http://www.kl7uw.com/SATtower_1.jpg
- after: http://www.kl7uw.com/Wind-damage12-15-10.jpg
A little 'OT' but 'cheaped out' with aluminum? I'm not sure what you had there Ed. I've got 2" 6061 T-6 and there's no two ways about it. It's light and extremely durable, The trade off is the cost I suppose. They sure don't give it away. I built my entire 144mhz H frame out of it. I've read nothing but good things and looks forward to many years of service from it.
Sorry to see that what you used failed but I'm moving away from steel as best as I can. For example, I also have a Glenn Martin H-4 Hazer, it's Aluminum too but is a solid piece of kit (you'd agree?) .-James KE7KQA
--
~The Voice of the Pacific NorthWest VHF Society~
You are subscribed to the Google Groups "PNWVHFS" group.
To post to this group, send email to PNW...@googlegroups.com
To read message history, visit http://groups.google.com/group/PNWVHFS
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "PNWVHFS" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pnwvhfs+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
73, Ed - KL7UW
At 03:45 PM 5/16/2016, WB6FFC wrote:
UHMW is wonderful stuff, easy to cut on a band saw, easy to machine in a Lathe
but impossible to shape with a file or belt sander, really good for a wearing surface!
Mike
WB6FFC
Regards,
Stephen Hanselman, KC4SW
Datagate Systems, LLC
(775) 882-5117 office
(775) 720-6020 mobile
a Service Disabled, Veteran Owned Small Business
DISCLAIMER:
This e-mail and any attachments are intended only for use by the addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or proprietary information. If you are not the intended recipient, any dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail and any attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify me and permanently delete the original and all copies and printouts of this e-mail and any attachments.--
~The Voice of the Pacific NorthWest VHF Society~
You are subscribed to the Google Groups "PNWVHFS" group.
To post to this group, send email to PNW...@googlegroups.com
To read message history, visit http://groups.google.com/group/PNWVHFS
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "PNWVHFS" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pnwvhfs+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
<WP_20160527_19_26_11_Pro.jpg>
<WP_20160527_19_26_03_Pro.jpg>
<WP_20160527_19_25_56_Pro.jpg>