Forgive me for forgetting and not looking it up, but last week someone suggested I should create a top ten list of pattern books. And the indirect result -sorry no top ten list yet- is this review. All because I went looking for this book to see if by chance, there might be a reserve of them available and sure enough! Some enterprising individual has republished it. Lucky you.
For those who are new to fabric patterns, there are many resources and professionals that can assist in the process. Sewport provides an easy search function to filter your requirements and find designers who can take your ideas through to the development stage.
This critical stage in development will help you to visualize the fit and decide on the size ranges of your clothing. Essentially, patterns bridge the gap between ideation and production, which makes this process straightforward for both the brand and the manufacturer.
Understanding the basics of pattern making will provide insight into how your garments will take shape. Take a look at some of the main elements of this art to take your initial sketches to the next level.
There are a number of different methods that professionals use to make commercial patterns, and despite the conception created by pop culture, not all of these methods include three-dimensional dress forms. In fact, it's increasingly popular for pattern makers to use computers or even high-end tablets to make patterns that can be used to cut and assemble real-world men's and women's clothes.
No matter which pattern making tools are employed, the process of pattern development begins when a designer makes a sketch of a garment that they'd like to make. While this basic sketch is made with the human form in mind, there are quite a few more steps that need to take place to transform this initial idea into a garment that will fit a human body.
Essentially, pattern making is the art of translating a designer's basic idea for a garment into a real piece of apparel that fits the human body in a flattering way. A few simple techniques have been used in pattern making for centuries, and some pattern makers prefer to keep things old school.
However, generations of experience in making design patterns have produced adapted techniques in the art of pattern making. Any technique that turns a design sketch into a real garment is valid in the world of pattern making, and many designers have moved on from flat patterns to making three-dimensional patterns on mannequins or in the digital world.
As you take a look throughout the apparel industry, it's clear to see that pattern design takes many different forms just as design elements vary from firm to firm. However, the basics of pattern making remain the same: This process is all about bringing a designer's dreams to life in the real world.
Most large apparel producers have one or more pattern makers on staff to take care of sewing construction and other pattern-related tasks. These professionals generally work in the same building as the company's design staff, but they usually work in individual offices or offices that are shared with other pattern makers.
Freelance pattern makers, however, may work from home or have private offices. With modern technology, it's often possible for pattern makers, designers, and clothing manufacturers to work together in sync without ever meeting each other in person. That said, it's often preferable to physically meet with your pattern maker even if they operate out of their own premises; doing so makes it easier to share patterns, and face-to-face conversations are often better for establishing shared goals and sharing important information.
A pattern maker's office is often strewn with various bolts of fabric. These professionals may have high-end computing equipment, or they may have tablets placed on various surfaces. In addition, these offices generally have at least one or two big tables, and it's common to see pattern makers working with dress forms and mannequins.
There's no set way to become a successful pattern maker. The only factor that's necessary to have at the beginning of a pattern maker's career is drive; this vocation is only suited for people who love fabric so much that they're willing to work with it every day for years on end.
Some background in sewing is usually a plus if you want to be a pattern maker, and you should have a good grasp of the different types of fabrics that are on the market. When you're ready to try your hand at this profession, there are plenty of easy ways to get started online; for instance, there are a number of comprehensive guides that cover the basics to pattern making and make it easy to try out this skill in your own living room or bedroom.
Some of the best pattern makers are self-taught, and you may not find it necessary to undergo traditional schooling to be great at this career. Some people, however, decide to jump into pattern making with hardly any sewing experience, and other professionals who are already active in the fashion industry get formal educations in this vocation to further their skills.
Many aspiring designers choose to learn pattern making as part of their studies in fashion design; almost all fashion schools offer courses in pattern making, and some examples of the top fashion institutes around the world include:
Going to school for pattern making, however, might not be the right idea for a number of reasons. Fashion school is expensive, and it's mainly tailored toward helping designers receive well-rounded educations.
However, pattern making isn't all that hard to learn on your own, and there are tons of online resources that can help you get started. In the end, your own personal drive and determination are what will determine your success as a pattern maker, and it's possible to set out on this career choice with a few hundred dollars and a laptop if need be.
Pattern makers are the practical creatives of the fashion industry. While designers tend to get their heads stuck in the clouds with whimsical ideas and plans that will never pan out, pattern makers are tasked with the responsibility of making these dreams into products that can be mass produced or worn down the runway.
While clothing manufacturers are mere workhorses, pattern makers have to be imaginative even though they fulfil pragmatic roles. Designing a garment is one thing, but making sure that these designs can actually see the light of day is a pattern maker's unique responsibility. Pattern makers are to fashions as directors are to films; in the production of a film, it's the screenwriter's job to come up with amazing ideas and the director's job to make sure that all of the actors work together, and in the world of fashion, it's a pattern maker's job to make sure that designs on paper communicate properly tangible fabrics in the real world.
These skills translate ideas on paper into real-world designs, and they capture how the wearer will think and feel when they choose the garment. These types of designers have gone on to become the greats of the fashion industry who we know and love today.
So, what do these fashion designers possess that many do not? In short, they have specialized, skills such as pattern creation, that support the initial design work. Iconic examples of talented designers include Christian Dior. His creativity led him into a career in architecture during his early years. After his service in the war, he founded The House of Dior in 1946.
Essentially, an accurate profile of your clothing will produce the first fit sample of your collection. This sample has to be as close as possible to the final garment. Otherwise, significant changes will have to be made, which will cause costly setbacks.
This method takes a basic pattern and translates it into a 3D shape with muslin fabric, which is then transferred to paper. Flat pattern making helps to highlight the areas for movement and improves comfort for the wearer.
Drafting is often used to create initial designs. These designs are produced using standard sizing presets from factories or have been measured accurately using a fit model. This method is traditionally drawn on paper and has markings for ease allowance to complete the formation of the garment.
This style of pattern creation involves draping the muslin over a form (or mannequin) to create a 3D shape. After a designer has reached the desired look, this fabric is then transferred to paper for the final pattern. This method can be more expensive than other techniques. However, it gives a fashion designer an overview of how a garment will look before making the final decisions before production.
Seam allowance is another crucial aspect of the pattern creation process. Simply put, a seam joins two pieces of fabric just enough to cover the raw edges of the material. The measurement is vital for crafting a smooth finish. However, there are variances in the seam allowances for different styles of clothing.
The production of clothing can be a complex and time-consuming process especially when changes are made during production. This may be caused by availability or a change in fabric, in which case the pattern will have to be altered.
It may appear that you can just use the same patterns as per the original design. However, even a slight difference in the material will lead to varying degrees of drape, shrinkage and give in the final product. By ignoring this alteration, you run the risk of producing ill-fitting and unsellable garments, which in turn will affect the bottom line.
Once you have the initial pattern for your garments, the next step is to create alternative sizing. This process is called pattern grading and involves making other sizes using your basic blueprint. Some manufacturers have standard guidelines for grading, and this is where you see common retailer measurements. For example, size 8 and beyond, sizes S, M, L, and so on.
Alongside traditional pattern drafting methods, technology is making it easier to produce accurate designs that speed up the production process. This type of software can be used in both small and large-scale textile design for pattern making and grading. Otherwise known as computer-aided design (CAD), this system can work in harmony with several elements across the manufacturing industry.
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