Paint Brush Set - Bunnings

[Raymond Freedman]

HiI am trying to finish off painting my fence. I no longer have me helper who used the spray gun for the outside & I am not confident using it. What is the best paint brush or roller to use with water based. My first attempt I watered down the paint too much.

If you do want to paint with a roller or brush, I'd suggest a mini-roller for painting in between the slats on their edges and then a larger roller for their front faces. For brushes, you could go with this convenient fence brush kit.

Thank you, I do have the Ozito spray gun which seems to spit out alot of paint even chunks at times which we found that you have to keep cleaning the nozzles, I will give it another try, what type of rollers do you recommend, I have only found the foam one which breaks down

The trick is to keep that nozzle clean and wipe off any paint on it before taking a break as it will dry and spit chunks the next time you use it. If there is dried paint in the nozzle at the moment, it might be worth removing the nozzle, letting it sit in warm water and giving it a good clean with an old toothbrush.

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @shirley1231. It's wonderful to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about sealing slate.

Could we start with what product you are using and whether you are using a synthetic or natural brush? How wide is the brush? If you are not getting a satisfactory result, it would be best to look towards the application instructions to see if an alternate method is advised. Perhaps they might suggest a roller or application pad.

What sort of preparation was done on the tiles before application? Many slate sealers require removing the previous coating entirely with a sealer remover as it can lead to a streaky or mottled finish if they are not.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Thank you for your reply. It is Tasman chemicals . I havd tried roller and lambswool but it sticks to them. I have stripped some same result. I use a cheaper brush and dispose of it. The product is solvent based. I am at my wits end , hope you can help. Many thanks Shirley

We haven't sold Tasman Chemical slate sealer for some time now, but I've gone ahead and contacted their technical assistance. They'd like you to send them some images to sale...@solenis.com so they can better assess what's going on and assist. Please include details of the surface preparation, including any stripping you've done and details of whether any previous coatings you've applied were water or solvent-based.

I have already contacted Tasman last year. I got the product from them. Everything ok. Just want your opinion on what size and type of brush to use. How do you stop brush marks. Thanks so much for your help. I appreciate it.

Can you show us what type of brush you were using @shirley1231? If the bristles were a bit stiff, it could be causing drag marks. If it were a budget-friendly option, perhaps dry something of a higher quality like the Monarch 63mm Woodcare Paint Brush. Also, ensure you hold the brush at a shallow angle to the surface and not perpendicular.

Thank you I did use budget friendly paint brushes because I discarded them. How shallow an angle?. How do I keep brushes soft as I paint? Would a solvent based gloss from Bunnings paint over Tasmans solvent gloss. For future reference. Many thanks Mitchell.

At the back of the sealers container there should be instructions on how to clean the brushes after use. In order to keep your brushes softness, it must be cleaned properly after you've finished painting. If sealer dries on the bristles of the paint brush it can no longer cleaned off.

I am wanting to repaint the metal door frames in my house. Not sure where to start as the instructions on the web seem to all be around wooden door frames. The metal door frames do have chips here and there so not sure if I need to prepare them in another way?

Start by taking some 240-grit sandpaper, rubbing the chipped areas back and blending in their edges with the surrounding paint. When paint chips, it creates a hard edge perimeter where the thickness of paint has been removed. You need to soften these edges, or you'll be able to see the chipped area through your new topcoat.

Next, thoroughly clean the painting surface down with Sugar Soap. Once clean, wipe down with fresh water to remove the residual Sugar Soap and let dry. Apply Dulux Precision primer, and then once that has cured according to instructions, a water-based enamel topcoat in your choice of colour. The Precision primer is a specialty product designed for hard to paint surfaces. The alternative would be sanding back any gloss sheen on your current paint.

You'll be using hard-wearing enamel paint, and they typically call for a finer nap roller. Something like the UNi-PRO 100mm 4mm Nap Little Ripper Microfibre Mini Roller Set would be suitable for the job and perfect for the Aquanamel. If you were going to paint a larger surface like the door, something a little broader like the UNi-PRO 180mm Enamel Paint Roller Kit 5mm Nap would be helpful.

My apologies for the late reply. You'll notice that the UNi-PRO 100mm 4mm Nap Little Ripper Microfibre Mini Roller Set is specifically made for trims and architraves. Although it is possible to use this roller to paint your door, it will take longer and there is the possibility of uneven overlapping due to its small size. I recommend going with @MitchellMc's suggestion of using UNi-PRO 180mm Enamel Paint Roller Kit 5mm Nap. It's made to paint larger surfaces and you'll get a uniform finish on the door.

I suggest giving the new metal door a good wash with soap and water in combination with a soft bristle brush. This is to remove any grease or oil contaminants that may be on the surface of the metal door. Expose the metal door to the sun so that it dries off completely.

The next step is to find a spot where you can paint your metal door where it will be safe from the elements. I suggest using Dulux 1L PRECISION Maximum Strength Adhesion Primer White to prime the metal door. This primer is specifically made to go on to hard to paint surfaces. I suggest a minimum of two coats so that it will totally block off the black paint on it. If it looks like you are getting a shade of black still coming through a third coat will be necessary.

While not necessary to use a paint sprayer, they will give a cleaner look when compared to a brushed or rolled finish, so it is worth considering a reasonable priced paint sprayer such as the Wagner W125 Wood & Metal Paint Sprayer.

If you were to use a brush or roller, I would advise getting one of a good quality such as Monarch Expertech 100mm Nytec Wall Paint Brush or Monarch Expertech 75mm Walls And Ceilings Spi-Weave Roller Cover and the accompanying roller.

It would also be beneficial to add some Flood 1L Acrylic Paint Conditioner following all instructions on the packaging as it will help to smooth the paint and allow for a cleaner finish when using the brush or roller.

I was planning to the wood stain for the panels at the beginning. but I found the chair itself wasn't a fine wood so lot of fix and half way i found the crack as well.

This time I won't take out the screw for the sitting panel and just leave how it is. back panel of the seat has been taken out and I look for the paint and colour options as well. First one is White and kinda White wash for the panel. Now I am thinking the second one probably white and green colour for the sitting/back panels? What do you reckon?

and what kind of brush I should use? I use the fine paint brush at the beginning and still leave many brush marks even I sand it. Some recommend using small roller brush may improve the result in large surface.

At the begining of sanding. Panels off the chair.Sand it by hand. 80 first then 120 then 220.Wood filler for the holes and uneven surfaces and sand it againPaint with Primer: British Paint 4in1 water based primer.Chalk paint and distress surface a bit. replace in gold screw. The panel of the chair I was using Feast Watson Satin. It left the orange-yellowish coat on it. My mistake was also applying on the white chalk paint plus my uneven paint skill. It leave the uneven dirty coatIt cracked after assemble back. I think next time I should use more wood instead of the screw back in. Gives too much pressure for the panel.I still happy what I did. and now i have another go.

Our D.I.Y. expert @EricL will be back on the site later today. I'm sure he will be able to give you some good advice. I'll also tag experienced Workshop members @sandy_d and @prettyliving to see if they have any advice for you.

In the meantime, you might like to look at some of our helpful guides. How to upcycle a bedside cabinet has great advice for upcycling any kind of furniture. How to restore a wooden armchair has great advice on repairing damaged timber. How to lime wash timber furniture is very helpful too.

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @sandy_d and @Upcycler01. Just to add to the suggestions offered, I recommend using a higher grit number for your sandpaper when you are sanding to finish. Typically a 240-grit will give you a reasonable finish, but if you are after a super fine smooth finish, I would recommend at least 320 to 400-grit after the primer and in between coats.

I also suggest using the best possible brush you can afford. I find that the more expensive brushes hold more paint and leave a much smoother finish than a cheap brush. If you are after a truly flawless finish you might want to think about investing in a paint spray gun. It is a bit of an investment, but you'll immediately notice the difference between brushed-finish furniture and a spray-painted one.

My only other recommendation for a smoother finish is to dilute your top coat to its maximum allowable amount. You'll notice that diluted paint levels off more nicely than full-bodied paint. The drawback of course is that you'll need to put multiple coats and it does extend the drying time for the project.

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