Malowanie jak drewno
Peter Cheater
Jak farbami Master Model lub Humbrol namalowac kolor drewniany?
Do tej pory uzywalem farb akrylowych. Kupilem sobie kolor "drewniany"
- wood. I juz zaluje. To w ogole nie wyglada jak drewno!!! Help.
Pozdrawiam
Peter Cheater
ICQ: 54444844
http://www.altor.com.pl/cheater
ZMIANA NUMERU ICQ,
bo ze starym nie moglem sie dogadac.
Jaroslaw Prus
dorobic czesc z drewna (balsy) i pomalowac bejca.
Jarek
Witold Kozakiewicz
moodelarstwu z IWŚ. Oto co dostałem (po angielsku).
Warto również zajrzeć na ich stronę http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/ do działu
images i tam widać co, kto i jak robił. Warto również przejrzeć ich
archiwum (a moze się zapisać?)
Pozdrawaim
Witold Kozakiewicz
smp...@mindspring.com napisał(a):
> There are many ways to simulate plywood. There are commercially produced
> decals. homemade decals and direct painting and penciling. Look on the List
> web page http://pease1.sr.unh.edu/Images/index.html under Ernest Thomas for
> an example of fine commercial ply decals on his Voss D.III. Look under
> Shane Weier for what I bekieve is a painted finish with watercolor pencil
> grain. and you can look on my site at:
> http://smperry.home.mindspring.com/gallery.htm to see an example of
> handpainted clear decal material. I just sprayed Testors Wood onto clear
> decal material and when that dried well, I drybrushed the grain with Testors
> Rust.
Albat...@aol.com napisał(a):
> Some people here are either true masochists or great artists, and hand paint
> the wood effect themselves. We artistically-challenged types, however, are
> stuck with using decals. There is some wood decal available at Squadron Mail
> Order, and Candice Uhlir and I found some through railroad decals that we got
> our local shop to carry - I think the MicroScale or Aeromaster sheets are
> better but they are unfortunately out of production.
bu...@ptdprolog.net napisał(a):
> It seems like everyone has thgeir own system. As for me, I
> give the fuselage a base coat of Testors natural wood. After it dries
> thoroughly, I apply a reddish-brown acrylic from Polly-S called "Italian
> Camo Brown". I use a small sponge, apply a littlee brown, and stroke it in
> one direction to get sort of a grainy look without actually doing a specific
> grain pattern. There's an example on Al's page of an Albatros I did this
> way.
> hth
> Mike Muth
Tom Werner Hansen napisał(a):
Przesłał mi fragment archiwum listy. (WK)
>
> : Woodgrain Finish
> Date:
> Sun, 2 Mar 1997 11:17:36 -0500
> From:
> Bob Norgren <smo...@ne.infi.net>
> Reply-To:
> w...@pease1.sr.unh.edu
> To:
> Multiple recipients of list <w...@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
>
> barrett wrote:
> >
> > To the list:
> >
> > I've got a couple of 1/72 Albatros & LVG projects coming up where the
> > fuselage "planking" should be finished in a wood grain. I had a look at
> > Steve Hustad's models on Allan's web page, and, to be honest, the wood
> > simulation is beautiful. I don't doubt that a lot of "advanced" modeler's
> > techniques were used to complete these effects. (*Ahem*) So here's my
> > question: How does one go about starting to simulate this wood on
> > unassuming, bland, run-of-the-mill Airfix/ESCI/Pegasus plastic? Is there
> > extensive scoring involved? Technical pens and inks? Sheer luck?
>
> Paint the fuselage white or tan and then wet-brush (lots of water and
> little
> paint) Polly S dark brown. Experiment on scrap plastic first. I know
> someone who painted a scratch 1/32 Alb. C.III fuselage this way and you
> couldn't tell that it wasn't varnished wood.
>
> What I do is spray the entire wood area with old formula Floquil (the kind
> that uses Dio Sol thinner) paint color close to Radome Tan. Using very
> light pencil markings, lay out the individual panels. Using pretty much any
> standard enamel paint and an old course flat brush, streak a slightly
> darker brown over the indiviual panels in the direction of the grain
> requiredfor each panel. Once that is dry, sand it lightly to even the
> surface. I use Post-It notes to mask the individual panels one at a time,
> and very thin washes of acrylic paints in redish and brown tones to give a
> little more visual interest. Clear coat over the surace once it's dry with
> your favorite gloss or semi-gloss product. It's really an easy process,
> and if you discount dying tome for the first two coats, the whole process
> only takes about an hour. I used this method on my Albatros D.III acouple
> of years ago, and was fortunate enough to win at the Region 6 contest. To
> me it meets the two main requirements of a process: easy to do, and gives
> decent results.
>
> Paul Howard
> IPMS 29957
> Abilene, TX
> Yet another idea. First paint the fuselage in a light tan colour and wait
> until dry.
> Then apply the required darker colour, using enamel-type paint or oil
> colours
> in the following manner : take a small amount of paint with tip of
> forefinger
> and pass it along the fuselage, waving gently. The "grooves" in the
> fingertip
> simulate wood grain with surprising effectiveness, provided the right
> quantity and quality of paint is used. I've tried it and it works. Cheap
> and
> easy.
> Best of luck,
> Francois
>
> Wood Finishes
> Date:
> Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:38:38 -0400
> From:
> "Paul Schwartzkopf" <pa...@transcrypt.com>
> Reply-To:
> w...@pease1.sr.unh.edu
> To:
> Multiple recipients of list <w...@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
>
> I have had success with painting on a base coat, such as Model Master
> Wood, or mixing a reddish-brown for mahogany. After the paint is
> dry, I use artists' drawing pencils, in a darker color, to add the
> graining. I select a color according to the base coat, such as dark
> brown on light brown. I never use black--it is too dark. I don't
> pay too much attention adding the graining, as you want it to look
> "random". I do this right before adding a gloss coat of clear for
> decaling to seal in the pencil. Pencils can be purchased at art/craft
> stores, and come in a wide variety of colors. Be advised that using
> too sharp a point or pressing too hard can gouge into the paint.
>
> Paul
>
> --
> I don't try to replicate the GRAIN of the wood so much as the variation
> in TONEs. I use a similar technique to the above, using Humbrol paints.
> For fir wood and pine, I use the colors #110 Natural Wood, #71 Oak (as a
> base tone), #121 Pale Stone, #148 Radome Tan, #170 Brown Bess (very
> lightly), and #187 Brown. These are not all used on one panel, of
> course, but used in differing shadings and mixtures to difine each
> different panel. After painting the base-tone and letting it dry, I
> mask off the 'panel' with a thin strip of tape, then dry brush using an
> orientation I want for the direction of that panel's 'grain'.I try to
> make sure I get the dark color into the edges, and will sometimes use
> the Natural Wood as the base so there is a slight shadow effect
> demarking the edge of the individual panel. I overcoat the final result
> in a slightly flattened gloss clear acrylic (shinier than most
> semi-gloss, though not looking like fine furniture). Different panels
> will have differing 'orientations', though mostly they will either run
> lengthwise to the fuselage or vertical, though you will see that sheets
> of plywood occasionally are sheathed at the bias.
>
> I find this sort of treatment also works well for plastic props (heresy,
> I know) painted to resemble laminated wood.
> --
> This has been Mark and/or Mary ShannonWood Finishes
> Date:
> Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:24:49 -0400
> From:
> Alberto Rada <ra...@true.net>
> Reply-To:
> w...@pease1.sr.unh.edu
> To:
> Multiple recipients of list <w...@pease1.sr.unh.edu>
>
> I have tried using decals, but you get an artificial look on it
> that I don't like much, and I have just finished Eduard
> Albatros D.V and used the a similar method described by
> other members.
> First give it a base of very light sandish color, preferably with
> an aerograph, then, once dry get a darker sand, yellow, a light
> brown and black if you are going for Albatros paneling, if you
> go for darker colors add red if mahogany and go from lighter to
> darker with a very dry brush, that is wet the brush and pass it
> repeatedly over a paper napkin until you can't see any paint
> deposited, then very lightly pass it over the model panel,
> preferably masking the following one, you won't see any difference,
> don't worry , keep going with the next color, once you reach black
> be extremely careful and pass it very very lightly.
> With the above system you won't get any wood eyes or lines, but it
> will give a natural wood appearance that will have people asking how
> you carved it. Finish it of with a semi-gloss and that's it.
> add the following step, and I recommend for every one to try it and see
> the results, Floquil has several tints for staining wood, mahogany etc.
> these are mainly thinner and the tint, so you have to be very careful,
> or you will wash the paint, wet well the brush and give it one single pass
> and let it dry, and see the results.
>
> My 2 Pesos worth
>
> SALUDOS
>
> ALBERTO
>
> The method I used to represent ply panelled fuselage seemed satisfactory.
> First apply a base coat of Floquil Rilroad colours 110310 TTX yellow. When
> it has dried completely very lightly scribe the panel lines with a pencil.
> Then apply mid-brown shoe polish (nugget) with a stubble brush and work a
> grain effect quickly before it dries. You can see the model in question
> (Albatros D.Va) on the Perth Military Modelling Society homepage (go to
> showcase button). Here's the link:
> http://argo.net.au.tash/
> Hope it works (er, the link and the ply pannelling)
> Cheers.
>
> I stumbled upon a pretty convincing wood finish while working on my Eduard
> Albatros D.V this past week and thought I'd pass it along. I was trying a
> variation of one of the methods we discussed not long ago, but found an
> accident caused a wonderful suprise:
>
> I sprayed my D.V fuselage with straight Testors gloss "Wood" as a base
> coat. I intended to seal it with varnish then apply acrylic over it in thin
> streaks. Well, I forgot to seal it and applied my acrylic paint directly
> over the enamel (no big deal, I guess I could have worked it anyway). After
> discovering my goof I decided to simply put it away for a while until I
> could strip it and start over. On a whim, I got out my Scothbrite scouring
> pad to see if I could simply scrub the paint off and WOW! Instant wood! The
> Scotchbrite simply "grained" the top layer of paint into the bottom layer
> so convincingly that it looks like real wood. From arms length I can see no
> grain, but up close is a very fine grain, and it's about the proper sheen
> for untreated or weathered wood. I showed a friend and he thought I had
> veneered the plastic until close inspection.
>
> I tried several minor variations later on junk kits and found the best way
> is to spray the enamel smooth, let it dry a good long while, and then paint
> it with the acrylic by brushing. The uneven paint thickness of brush
> painting, though minute, helps in adding slight variation in the color
> density if desired. If a smooth overall wood finish is needed, airbraush
> the acrylic.
>
> Different panels were made to appear unique by masking with scotch tape and
> different directions or intensities of scrubbing with the Scotchbrite. I
> was truly impressed by this accident!
>
> The colors I used (perhaps too dark for the golden ply of my Alb D.V) were
> Testors gloss wood enamel for a base coat and Polly Scale Italian Hazel for
> a top coat. The results are a nice warm light mahogany- perfect for stained
> ply.
>
> If anyone gives this a try, please let us know. I'd like to know what other
> folks can get with this method. Maybe if anyone stumbles on a good color
> combination for light plywood???
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Scott H
>
> Up late working on the D-III a bit. Found a new trick. If it's old news
> to you, the delete key is just SE of the backspace key. :)
>
> I painted the inside walls of the fuselage with Humbrol 94(wood, I
> think). Then I took a brand new can of Hum 62(leather) and without
> mixing it at all, I used the tinted base/solvent w/o pigment as a
> wash/varnish over the Hum 94. When this was all good and dry(several
> days dry) I painted the fuselage frame structure with the Hum 62.(mixed
> thouroughly). Before it dried too much, I took a sharp pointy object(in
> this case, a watchmakers pick) and scraped away all the spooges where I
> got sloppy with the Hum 62.
> Looks great. Lines sharper than I could ever paint and the varnish
> protected the plywood finish(94) underneath.
> hth...somebody?
Peter Cheater
>dorobic czesc z drewna (balsy) i pomalowac bejca.
> Jarek
>
widze mozliwosci wykorzystania jej w tym konkretnym przypadku ;-(((((
Ponad pol kadluba mam pomalowane akrylowa Vermin Fur firmy Citadel
Colour. Skonczyla mi sie, a oni zmienili barwy i juz takiej nie ma !!!
A sam smialem sie z dziewczyny, bo ubolewala, ze jakas firma cien do
powiek wycofala (zamienila barwe).
Peter Cheater
Pozdrawiam
Adam
Są produkowane arkusze kalkomanii (u nas bywa dostępny Propagteam), ale nie
wyglądają zbyt realistycznie; już lepiej po pokryciu błyszczącym werniksem.
Znakomite kalki sklejki dołączyła ukraińska forma TOKO do swojego myśliwca
Hansa-Brandenburg D.I, robiliśmy z kumplem doświadczenia ze skopiowaniem
farbami z całkiem niezłym efektem końcowym.
Po pierwsze: daj podkład kolorem drewnopodobnym, lepiej ciemnym.
Po drugie: po zaschnięciu podkładu kolor wyjściowy rozcieńcz nieznacznie
żółtym i białym, farbę rozrzedź, nakładaj cienkim pędzelkiem (zerówką) wzór
słojów.
Po trzecie: po zaschnięciu powyższego przygotuj jeszcze jaśniejszą farbę
drewnopodobną, maluj słoje jak wyżej. przyjrzyj się wspomnianemu modelowi
dla lepszewgo pojęcia. Najpierw przećwicz na jakimś złomie. Na koniec dobrze
przelakierować błyszczącym lakierem bezbarwnym.
Jeśli trzeba do śmigła - rzecz jest prostsza. Sam stosuję jako podkład
mieszankę Humbrola 160 i 69 w równych proporcjach, słoje maluję 160.
Powodzenia
--
Adam
as...@kki.net.pl
Peter Cheater
>Po drugie: po zaschnięciu podkładu kolor wyjściowy rozcieńcz nieznacznie
>żółtym i białym, farbę rozrzedź, nakładaj cienkim pędzelkiem (zerówką) wzór
>słojów.
>Po trzecie: po zaschnięciu powyższego przygotuj jeszcze jaśniejszą farbę
>drewnopodobną, maluj słoje jak wyżej. przyjrzyj się wspomnianemu modelowi
>dla lepszewgo pojęcia. Najpierw przećwicz na jakimś złomie. Na koniec dobrze
>przelakierować błyszczącym lakierem bezbarwnym.
>Jeśli trzeba do śmigła - rzecz jest prostsza. Sam stosuję jako podkład
>mieszankę Humbrola 160 i 69 w równych proporcjach, słoje maluję 160.
>Powodzenia
zedra i wcisna duzo glupich farb. A oni tylko zaproponowali Humbrola
numer 110. Jak zasugerowalem jeszcze jakies, to powiedzieli, ze nie
trzeba, bo to wyglada jak drewno. (nie bede pisal, jak to wyglada)
Wiec na Swieta zostalem bez tych farb. Sytuacje uratowaly ukochane
akrylowe: Citadel Colour: Zmieszalem Vermin Brown i za nim wysechl
wmieszalem Brown Ink. Miejscami zrobily sie ciemniejsze smugi i cale
zaczelo lepiej wygladac.
Wynik:
3:0 dla akrylowych