Building 2016 PiDP-8 kit, questions

[Ken Hansen]

So, just over 5 years ago I purchased a PiDP-8 kit, but didn't have the spare cycles to put it together, but now I have pulled the box off the shelf, and I have a few questions:

My kit was shipped Nov, 2016, and the switches are properly colored, and only have 3 contacts, so it is obviously a 2016 kit.

The questions:

1) Pi choice - I have Pi Zero WH and Pi Zero 2 W, based on what I've read, the Pi Zero 2 W will have enough 'umph' to flutter the LEDs as they did on the original - is that a correct conclusion?

2) Pi OS choice - earlier this month a new release of Raspbian OS was released, Jessie, and I had problems with the PiDP-11 software "copy-and-paste" instructions not working, I stepped back to the previous release, Buster, and the instructions worked fine. (Not working means the application didnt 'auto-start' on a text-based install (no desktop), and manually starting the screen interface simply returned a zero and ended. Has anyone tested the software on Jessie and gotten it to work?

2.1) Any reason not to use the advanced features of the RPi Imager software to set default password, enable SSH, set WiFi and locale info when imaging the MicroSD card?

3) I watched the whole 18 minute build video on music & blinkenlights YouTube channel, is there an inherent issue with mounting the PCB as Oscar describes on his website?

4) it looks like soldering the Pi connector involves working around the LEDs, would it be better to mount the Pi connector first, then the LEDs, or am I over-thinking it?

5) Any suggestions regarding ports/holes in the back? I plan to access it over wifi/ssh, so I'm not adding any serial ports or hdmi/usb connections.

6) Any advice or tips on construction of this 2016 kit? (I like the method for mounting the switches on the PiDP-8, very clever.

Thanks in advance

Ken

[John Kennedy]

2. You mean Bullseye rather than Jesse I believe. I've tried Bullseye on a device systems I have that depend on the Pi, and some work and others don't. I would stick with Buster for now. Bullseye is much nicer if you are using the Pi as a desktop system, but for something like the PiDP, it currently doesn't have a benefit that I can see.

2.1 It's not a problem to set up a standard image, and use the Pi connected to a display / keyboard etc and install everything and get WiFi working. And turn on SSH and VNC so you can tinker once it's in the box.

4. Probably overthinking.

5. If you just want to VNC/SSH then don't worry about any ports.

[Charley Jones]

My only and best suggestion is to follow the build instructions.  I mounted components and did testing before mounting switches.  Found a glitch.  Not sure where it went wrong, but I was one of the 1% that ordered the replacement board.  Better to replace the board than all the switches.   

Sent from my iPhone 12pm!

Charley Jones, PMP

On Nov 28, 2021, at 7:16 PM, John Kennedy <johntk...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Steve Tockey]

"it looks like soldering the Pi connector involves working around the LEDs, would it be better to mount the Pi connector first, then the LEDs, or am I over-thinking it?"

I agree with JohnK, you're overthinking it. Just don't be sloppy with the iron and you should be fine. On the other hand, I can't think of any reason why you couldn't put in the Pi header before the LEDs if you are still concerned about it.

"Any suggestions regarding ports/holes in the back? I plan to access it over wifi/ssh, so I'm not adding any serial ports or hdmi/usb connections."

Even though you plan to run without communication connections (serial, USB, ...) don't you still need to get power into the Pi? You'd just need one small hole slightly larger than the connector on the power cable?

"Any advice or tips on construction of this 2016 kit? (I like the method for mounting the switches on the PiDP-8, very clever."

Have you already soldered in the LEDs? It's really hard to get them all aligned unless you have some kind of jig. Oscar puts one into the latest kits, the same as what's in the PiDP-11/70. He also makes the jig available for a small fee and it can be retro-fitted onto any kit. I wasn't happy with the LED alignment on mine so I got the jig. I had to reheat a small number of the LEDs to get them into position but in the end the alignment is now perfect. The jig also helps to better hide the circuit board that's slightly visible behind the panel if you don't have the jig.

-- steve

[Heinz-Bernd Eggenstein]

> 6) Any advice or tips on construction of this 2016 kit? (I like the method for mounting the switches on the PiDP-8, very clever.

The one thing where I would consider deviating from the instructions is the orientation of the deposit switch. In the real PDP-8i, that switch is mounted "upside down", that means it's normal position is opposite to the "zero" position of the other switches, but for simplicity the PiDP8 PCB and software treat it like the other keys. So to mount it the "correct way", you would need to change either the traces on the PCB or the software.

HB