Mike,
Seems like Oscar is unavailable. I'll give you my perspective, for what that might be worth:
"Would it make sense for me to buy the LED spacers, LED bracket and
possibly the updated PC board for this kit before putting it together?
If so how much should I send you?"
You probably shouldn't bother with the spacers. The issue is the distance that the circuit board is mounted from the front panel and that varies from some generations of kits to others. If that kit didn't come with spacers then it means it doesn't need them. If you put them in then it's highly likely that the front panel won't fit right as the LEDs would be too tall. The LED bracket is useful for positioning the LEDs correctly when soldering them in. It's not necessary after the LEDs have been soldered although it does slightly reduce light bleed. So if you have the LED bracket from a different kit, just use it for solder positioning the LEDs. I got all of my PiDP-8/I kits before the LED bracket was available. I ordered the bracket later from Oscar for a nominal fee, something like USD $5 each. I wanted 3 as I have 3 PiDP-8/Is.
It's not difficult to carefully reposition any out-of-alignment LEDs after they've already been soldered in but you do need to not overheat any traces/pads. As long as your soldering skills are beyond just basic it can be done. I don't know if you can order the LED bracket through Jose instead of Oscar. I don't know if Jose only handles PiDP-10s or if he also stocks spare parts for PiDP-8/I and PiDP-11/70. It could be worth sending an email to Jose.
"What else would I need to upgrade to go with the newest PCB?
If I don't upgrade the PCB, Are there any cuts and jumpers that I should
do before assembling the circuit board?"
You shouldn't need to worry about anything else between board versions. The behavior of all versions of board are identical. It's the distance between the board and the front panel that's the only relevant mechanical difference and that's addressed by the combination of whatever circuit board mounting hardware you use and whether or not it needs the LED spacers. Honestly, IMHO, I would just stay with the current board and no LED spacers. In the end it will behave exactly the same as if you had used any other version of the board (see my response to your benchmarking statement, below).
"What is the correct deposit switch inversion for this board?"
It's the same on all versions of the boards. Just cut the one trace and solder the jumper around the DEPosit switch as described in other emails. That part of the circuit board should not have changed across all versions. Board trace changes were all due to just re-positioning the RPi GPIO header.
"Will I have any problems running any of the Raspberry Pi versions on
this kit (Zero through 5)?"
Any problems you would have would center around the fact that the GPIO pin mappings changed between RPi Zero to RPi 3 vs RPi 4 and 5.There may be an additional step to build the SIMH simulator software on a RPi 4 & RPi 5 unless that has been automatically incorporated into the build process script. The how-to-build-the-software instructions should make that clear.
"I will be benchmarking the new build of the PiDP SIMH software on a
bunch of different Pi's so compatibility is an issue."
Everything that has anything to do with PiDP-8/I performance is contained entirely on whatever RPi is driving the PiDP-8/I circuit board. The circuit board is merely lighting the LEDs per the GPIO outputs and forwarding the front panel switch settings to the GPIO inputs. The board doesn't do anything else. All versions of PiDP-8/I circuit board will perform exactly as driven/determined by the RPi that's mounted on it.Technically, you could even performance benchmark without the PiDP-8/I kit as long as the benchmarks don't depend on you seeing the front panel LEDs or setting any front panel switches. A bare bones RPi should be sufficient for performance benchmarking of the PiDP-8/I software.
I hope this helps,
-- steve