Work on #149 (console version) begins!

[Randy Merkel]

Minor "typo" in the case build instructions:

https://obsolescence.dev/images/pidp1/building/building-pics/b-diodes-IMG_20250605_134048.jpg seems to be missing a diode under the Single INST switch. https://obsolescence.dev/images/pidp1/building/building-pics/b-diodes-IMG_20250605_134048.jpg shows the diode in question installed.

-- Randy 

[Matthias Barthel]

Randy,

The Diode must be installed. It's soldered on both of mine Pidp1's.

Matthias

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[Randy Merkel]

I'd suggest updating the 1st photo I referenced with an arrow and labled with something like "one more diode here,"

[Randy Merkel]

Another issue; the video for making the console version of the case makes no references to the back top (ref #1) and bottom (ref #2) parts. These are reference #1 and #2 in the Console PCP Parts photo @ https://obsolescence.dev/pidp-1-building-instructions.html.

As these are tabbed, they really can't be added latter. Any reason why the video ignores them?

Thanks again, Randy.

[Randy Merkel]

Ansering my own question:

"

• note that you're making most of the case here. Later on, you will add the top Ottopanel with the main PCB already attached to it. And right at the end, you can click in the top and bottom back panels."

[sunnyboy010101]

Yes, I can confirm they do clip on after the console is built. They are a tight fit (you have to bend the center up a bit) so I would only want to do it once. There is a mention in the instructions but I don't recall where - it's brief and easily missed. I had to read the instructions myself several times to catch all the little bits.

-R

[sunnyboy010101]

I can also confidently confirm the circuit board can be transferred quite easily between rack operator panel and console case. One thing I noted is the instructions at one point say "solder the blue finish panel to the case" but then it ACTUALLY describes soldering the ottopanel to the case. You never actually solder the outer "show" panels to anything - they are held in place by the nuts on the switches (applies to main show panel and lower switch panel). If you have the rack version, the white show panel becomes the ottopanel for the console case, and the blue finish panel is moved over with the electronics if you swap between rack and console. Very slick and nice.

Also - I actually soldered my ottopanel to the case WITHOUT the circuit board installed. Given you can move it later, I decided to take advantage of the better visibility (and only a single ottopanel to manage) and soldered it in using careful alignment. Makes the tabs easy as well. I later confirmed the electronics moves easily, so I know this other method works.

-R

[Randy Merkel]

Thanks R!

All LEDs and switches are in my console, next is the switch board. Soldering in the ottopanel separately sounds like a good idea, i'll keep it in mind.

Assembly note/suggestion: to get my switches to line up I installed one of the finish boards. With a little finger/solder gun pressure I soldered the TEST WORD row with no problems as all the fuss was done with the finish board; all the switches where perfectly aligned. I think installed the other switches, finish board and a couple of switch nuts to hold everthing in place. Nothing fell out and all where aligned.

-- Randy

[sunnyboy010101]

You are welcome! I created a website with photos & discussion of my PiDP-1 kit build (rack) here:

https://huntrods.com/pidp1.html

It includes my missteps and solutions as well as general thoughts about putting the kit together. I'm waiting on an LED spacer, then I can finish the electronics except for final wiring on the spacewar controllers. I have to re-read the thread on those before I wire the cables and connector. I build the console case using the white finish panels as ottopanels and it works great. I've already tested moving the electronics from one to the other and it's great.

Later this week I hope to have the spacer and more solder and will post final photos & thoughts as I finish the kit.

And... of course I had to buy a 'bottom nvme m.3 hat' for my Pi-5. I new that I'd built this one with a top had for the m.2 SSD, but didn't realize until this week when I opened the case that the top had uses several pins from the GPIO. When I built my PiDP-10 I bought a second Pi-5 and put a bottom m.2 hat on it and it works awesome (running 24/7 since last summer). This particular Pi-5 was bought/built as test unit for the PiDP-10 (hence the first top hat) and later this fall the PiDP-1 software was installed to play with PiDP-1. But now it's time to get it ready to physically plug into the PiDP-1... 

Still, fun when it all comes together!

-R

[Randy Merkel]

The console is completed and running the blinky app in all its glory! Lots of solder bridges, my soldering kung fu is what it once was...

Some odds and ends;

• Waiting on a 22-30 AWG wire stripper for the controls; I don't trust myself to strip them by hand ;)
• I tried the "hack" to fix the top right LEDs not sticking out enough. Kind of a pain to get right. I think I'm going to pick up some dowels and cut to length, between the PCBA and the ottopanel, and use double sided tape to see if that works better. Anybody try something similar?
• Has anybody identified good enclosure for the game panels? Something like a small, flat "blue box"would do the trick, but I guess some old cigar boxes might do the trick!
• Finally;  any plans to make an official type 30 display kit?

Thanks again, cheers;

-- Randy

[Matthias Barthel]

Randy,

Michael build both, a type30 display and cases for the Spacewar-controllers

https://hackaday.io/project/203991-dec-precision-crt-display-type-30-reproduction

Its also anywhere here in the google group .

Matthias 

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[sunnyboy010101]

I see the issue with the upper right side LEDs on my console version as well. However, as I want to be able to move the electronics from console to rack, I did not want to do the wire fix. I did think that with the upper back panel in place, a piece of dense foam would work well. For example a piece of the "pick and pluck" foam that's in a lot of camera bags, once removed, would do the trick. 

However, I also removed the upper back panel as it interfered with installing the ICs. It's also a bit easier to remove the electronics and install the Raspberrry Pi with that panel missing. Without it there's nothing for a foam block to push against. <sigh>

I'll probably do without anything for now.

[MICHAEL GARDI]

Here is what I did for the upper right led issue. I printed a block to hold the corner in place and glued it onto the frame (not the pcb). 

Also my version 3 game controller cases. Model files for the case can be found in the Files section here.

Mike

[Randy Merkel]

Thanks for the reminder about the Type 30 effort!  I posted a question about the 3D printed stuff over on "I have finished by 2:3 Scale Type 30 Reproduction."  I guess by question applied to the game controller cases as well, that is I don't have a filimite 3D printer; would be cool to buy parts!?!! ;)

Also foam blocks is a great idea. 

As always thanks,

- Randy

[sunnyboy010101]

I really like that block. Nice job!

[Randy Merkel]

It's alive!

Thanks to everyone for your help!