Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit Download Google Drive

[Violette Ransone]

Ialways remove the stuff I don't need from Windows (e.g. firewall, defender, wireless services, indexing) to save space and increase performance (also, there's no point on keeping the Microsoft versions of software if you replace them with something else anyways).

A lot of stuff is done on the partition that Windows is on (think temporary files from all types of files). I once ran out of space while trying to extract a large set of files from an archive, even though I wasn't extracting to the partition Windows was on (but the unarchiver was saving some temporary files there). Also, a few programs, although installed on a different partition, copy some files to C:\Program Files\Common Files (that folder is taking up nearly 650 MB on my PC).

That said, one trick to installing in less space is to install with MINIMAL RAM. Why? Windows will create a pagefile that is 1.5x RAM. So if you allocate 1 GB of RAM, then you need an extra 1.5 GB for the pagefile. If you use a pagefile that's too small, you'll get low virtual memory messages and possible cause the system to be unstable - but in terms of initial install, you can set the RAM to 128 MB (in a virtual machine) and then do the install. This will mean that you get a 192 MB pagefile and reduce the initial disk space required.

Of course, that can be reduced significantly with utilities such as nLite (better results but unforgiving, you don't get it right it's back to the drawing board) or XPLite (you can restore removed components with a few mouse clicks). Here's a screenshot of an installation on my Eee 701 4GB where disk space is a scarce commodity!

Personally I'd do a normal install to a relatively larger drive (10GB or more), get everything set up, remove everything I don't need, then image that drive over to the smallest one there is one bump up from the image size. So if it's a 790MB image put it on a 1GB drive.

if you streamline the service pack 3, and remove things like media player, internet explorer (you will download firefox anyway), etc... it installs at 1.45GB. (more than windows xp SP2 including media center and IE)

the process of removing unneeded portions of windows is painful, but you can remove a Gb from the final install (and 300mb from the installation disk!). here is the preset i use so you don't have to read all the thousands of options on nlite: profile.ini (import as a preset on nlite)

I'd use about 6-8 gigs for a minimum size myself. This will give you 2 gigs for the install, another 2 gigs for the swap file (if on the same disk), and about 2-4 gigs for patches/temp files/miscelaneous needs.

Just a warning : If you run out of space on the system disk you might find that you can't boot any more. So I wouldn't advice you to economize too much on the system disk - take some of the higher numbers mentioned in the answers.

I currently have a Windows 10 pro machine with a 3TB Hdd and a 120Gb SSD as a boot Drive. the 3TB drive is nearly full I wanted to know if there is a plane and simple way to switch it to unraid with no parity Drive. Just the usb drive as boot for (Unraid) and the SSD as cache and the 3tb for main shares with all of its data still on it from the windows machine.

All array drives in Unraid need to be formatted by Unraid so you cannot simply add the drive to the array. You could, however, easily mount it outside the array using the Unassigned Devices (UD) plugin.

What is not clear to me is where you want to end up? For instance do you intend to continue to run Windows in a VM under Unraid? If so you may want to keep the SSD as a Windows boot drive mounted using UD. In such a case since having at least one array drive is mandatory in Unraid you could assign a second USB stick to this role if it is not going to be used to store data.

The Windows system is currently used as a Plex Media Server. I wish to switch to unraid because of its better performance and upgradeability but just don't have the drives atm. I want to get everything up and running with just one drive, then add more in the future ect.

I cannot see any reason why not. You might need to try it to be absolutely certain, or get feedback here from someone else who has already tried it. Performance of NTFS is likely to be slightly lower but that is probably not the main criteria in this case?

I purchased two 12TB Sandisk professional external G-drives 10 months ago. Stored a lot of info in both the drives. Now both drives are not getting detected in Windows 10. Windows disk management is indicating the disks as Unknown/Not initialized. Need help in getting drives recognized to get back the data.

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The company have a student doing some work experience and they don't want him copying everything from the business and walking out with it, but they will want to transfer stuff onto the PC using a USB stick so what they envisage is that they put in a USB and it asks for some sort of password. It feels like I ought to be able to do it by making the student a standard user and make the use of the USB stick only available to administrators. Can't get my head around how to do it though :(

In the right pane, select Start and change the value to 3. (The value 4 will disable USB Storage). Click OK. This will re-enable USB Ports and allow you to use USB or Pen drives.

If the authorities are really worried about security in the school, they will take the extreme step of uninstalling the USB Mass Storage Drivers. To make things work, just install the device drivers. Here is how you do it.

As when you plug-in your USB drive, Windows will check for drivers, if not found hosted windows desktop will prompt you to install the driver. This would definitely unlock the Pen drive at your School or office.

For organizations that have multiple computers that are being replaced you can skip to the section below that describes how to efficiently manage this process without having to complete it one device at a time.

Again, set aside time for this activity. Not only will you have to wait around for the data erasure standpoint (especially the Remove Files and Clean the Drive task), but it will also require several user-inputted steps. Multiply that time if you have copious devices that need wiping.

The "Just remove my files" option will quickly reformat your drive, deleting the files on your PC as well as the data tables with the pointers associated with your files. This means that it is only getting rid of the reference of your files, and your files are still dormant in the hard drive, waiting to be erased with new information.

This is why we recommend "Remove files and clean the drive". Much like a NIST 800-88 Clear pattern pass, your data is written over by 0's. And then it's passed over with 1's...again and again. This is the reason the whole process will take several hours. Worth the wait, this will ensure that your computer comes out like it did from the factory and significantly decrease the chances that anyone can recover data from the laptop.

For organizations with multiple devices, managing your serial numbers is an important financial and legal responsibility. Failing to track these numbers can result in additional fees or loss of the ability to install software in a new device.

If you have more than one drive on your laptop, we suggest removing your files from all drives for the most security. Your laptop will continue to reset for the next couple hours to make sure there are no recoverable files from the hard drive disk, and will download a clean version of Windows 10.

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