Making Hex shanks into round

[Joe Garrett]

I'm working on the Steinwy from hell.

One thing I always do is to make some shanks round. I use Renner sets btw. This is done from about C52 up to A#62. I believe that this transitions the tone from the hex shank attack sound to a more clear/clean upper treble sound. I've been doing this for the last 20 years with good success. Anything I can do to avoid voicing I'll do!<G>

The reducer plate is made out of steel with a good hardness. (drillable but stiff)(look in your local neighborhood scrap bin.)

The holes are drilled  to .242", ("C"), .238, ("B"), & .234", (15/64"). I usually size the shanks down to the "B" drill only.

The plate Is then drill, on the back side of those holes with a 1/2" jobber bit, to "JUST" the existing hole size. This creates a burr on the face of the plate which is the cutting burr.

In order to pound the shank down through the sizing holes, you need to have a very hard striking piece that seats in the shank slot with the centerpin in place.  (flange REMOVED!) The center pin helps in the stability of hitting/driving the shank down to the desired length of "round". The striking piece measures 1" x 1" x 1/4" with a slot sawn into the center of it to a depth beyond the height of the center pin.

I use a dead blow hammer to pound the shank down via the striking piece. The striking piece is made out of any REALLY HARD wood. I like to use Maple pin block material or Bubinga or similar really hard wood. The striking piece also serves as a depth gauge to the underside of the knuckle.

I'm sorry I don't have any pictures of this. Perhaps in another post.<G>

Best Regards,

Joe

Captain of the Tool Police
Squares R I
gpianoworks.com