A very serious string cleaning question...

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Here in "The South", rusty strings and pins are the norm. I've hitherto simply cleaned the strings by rubbing with a gray or red ScotchBrite(TM) pad, and then wiping with paper towels dampened with naptha, but am wondering if something could be aded to the process that: A) Helps get the rust off B) Leaves a thin film that is rust-inhibitive without killing the tone C) Doesn't leave a weird odor in the piano And as far as the pins go: I was going to order a "Travis Tuning Pin and Coil Cleaner" kit from Schaff, but was told that a new manufacturer would be supplying them " in a couple of weeks". So I'm intending to try chucking a gun-cleaning brush in a cheap drill, and going at them with that. Comments appreciated! Thumpe Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

[Wim Blees]

The only reason to get rust off strings is to make look good. Just wiping off the rust, and maybe adding a "luster" of some sort does nothing to keep string from breaking. But maybe that's not your objective

Wim

Sent from my iPhone

[Joseph Garrett]

Thumpe(r),

My choice would be the latter. The Schaff - Travis thang isn't worth the bucks imo. Also, all this cleaning does what? It sure a heck doesn't improve the tone. (in fact it may mess it up if not done with discretion imo.) Yeah, it looks less bad, (definately not purty!) So there's that. Still need to know why do it in the first place. There are those who think rust is some kind of flesh, (in this case steel), eating live stuff that just continues to degrade the wire. That is also not true. Stop the moisture and the rust stops! (period) So, harken to my earlier post. How about I send you a whole crate full of used, but still useable olde damp chasers?!!!<G> Makes more sense than all the string cleaning b.s. imo.

Best Regards,

Joe

 

Joe Garrett, R.P.T.

Captain of the Tool Police

Squares R I

http://gpianoworks.com/

 

[Isaac OLEG]

Hello I do not have some brand or name but I asked that question at the IRCAM when I was working for them, and they provided me an extra thin product that dried and did not leave a messy stuff (catching dust) as does WD40. However they affirmed me it was the same kind of moisture barrier product.

The strings could be lightly oile (I know some will cry !) knowing that dust will be glued on them then (even if "traces" of oil are used.

Also what I have been told is that all oils degrade in time to a product that is really sticky.

I do not agree that the corrosion have no effect on tone. The main problem is that it cannot be cleaned above and under, then if rusted strings are cleaned, only on the apparent part and only on the top, they sound even less good after that. Unfortunately , I suppose that once there is really rust, the metal surface is not polished anymore.

We also have a very unfortunate situation due to the steel used today.

Old strings produced with cast steel did not oxyde and corrode as the ones of today.

sight...

[Isaac OLEG]

BTW I seem to understand that isopropyl alcool is the kind of product. it looks like a heavy alcohol, as if it was oily.

Problems with those solvents is that they are acid, some more than others.

I do not know for Naphta (but I am unsure what that name recovers, if it is Benzene it is not available anymore as being carcinogenic) 

Le jeudi 30 mai 2013 04:52:41 UTC+2, lcl...@yahoo.com a écrit :

[Terry Farrell]

Why would anyone want to clean a rusty tuning pin? Seriously! I never have understood that.

Terry Farrell

[Ron Nossaman]

On 5/30/2013 3:20 PM, Terry Farrell wrote:
> Why would anyone want to clean a rusty tuning pin? Seriously! I never
> have understood that.

Income, of course. Silly. Like selling lawn gnomes.
Ron N

[Joseph Garrett]

Terry,

To make it Purdy, of course!<G> Seriously though, the Bluing on tuning pins is actually "rust", in a controlled state. So, more rust, as in the reddish brown stuff, is simply more of the same, except the original teatment no longer serves it's function because the environment it is in is outside 'normal' limits. Hmmm? What to do? What to do?

Just so's ya know.<G>

Best Regards,

Joe

 

Joe Garrett, R.P.T.

Captain of the Tool Police

Squares R I

http://gpianoworks.com/

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Terry Farrell

To: pian...@googlegroups.com

Sent: 5/30/2013 1:20:15 PM

Subject: Re: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...

Why would anyone want to clean a rusty tuning pin? Seriously! I never have understood that.

[Joseph Garrett]

Or in his locale Pink Flamingos!<G>

Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain of the Tool Police
Squares R I
http://gpianoworks.com/

> [Original Message]
> From: Ron Nossaman <rnos...@cox.net>
> To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>
> Date: 5/30/2013 2:07:05 PM

> Subject: Re: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...
>

> On 5/30/2013 3:20 PM, Terry Farrell wrote:

> > Why would anyone want to clean a rusty tuning pin? Seriously! I never
> > have understood that.
>

[Ron Nossaman]

On 5/30/2013 4:11 PM, Joseph Garrett wrote:
> Or in his locale Pink Flamingos!<G>

Argh! I just flashed on a pink lawn gnome...

The horror... the horror...
Ron N

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Thanks, Oleg! Of course we've all heard pianos with VERY rusty strings that sound terrible (and obviously on account of it) so why would anyone suggest that pianos with moderately rusty strings wouldn't sound moderately bad? (Some people just like to be disagreeable, apparently.) Thumpe P.S. The "obviously" above is also proven, because when a string breaks on such a piano, and is replaced with a new one, the new one sounds markedly better!

Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: Isaac OLEG <isaac...@gmail.com>;
To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>;
Subject: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...
Sent: Thu, May 30, 2013 7:26:37 PM

[Joseph Garrett]

O.K. Thumpe(r), this from the "people (that) just like to be disagreeable,...". Please define for me "better" in terms of all this. I'd guess you would answer well it sounds different or some such. Please consider several things: 1. the strings we're talking about, (i.e. the rusted ones), are on a sorely mistreated piano that is over 100 years old! 2. The likelihood that the basic metallurgy of said string is far different than modern piano wire. (we are good at arguing which brand of string is "better sounding".

3. When you replace a string, you hopefully will have cleaned up the termination, seated the string, etc., but fail to do the same for it's neighbors or the strings of the same note...hence another reason that is sounds different, etc.

If a string has that much Rust on it that it sounds bad, it needs to be replaced. This half-baked Ampico, kinda, sorta, almost good pianer really needs far more than you and anyone else is willing to put into it, ....unfortunately. That is what it is. All you are doing is prolonging the agony imo. It truly is a shame, since some day in the future, people are going to be, loudly lamenting the demise of the truly fine pianos. These people are the same ones that would flatly decline to put any cash into said fine pianos! Go figger that one!

At the least cleaning rust off of these pianos, unless it is getting a complete rebuild, is misplaced and is a waste of time. If the piano sounds good NOW, tune the sucker fix the action and be done with it. After all, who will see the "rust"? certainly not the owner/customer. Will it sound better after a cleaning of the strings and tuning pins?

I doubt it. I liken it to washing one's car and it "runs better"!  Yeah, right.

Affectionately  & Grumpy,

Joe

 

Joe Garrett, R.P.T.

Captain of the Tool Police

Squares R I

http://gpianoworks.com/

 

----- Original Message -----

From:

To: isaac...@gmail.com;pian...@googlegroups.com

Sent: 5/30/2013 2:43:56 PM

Subject: RE: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...

Thanks, Oleg! Of course we've all heard pianos with VERY rusty strings that sound terrible (and obviously on account of it) so why would anyone suggest that pianos with moderately rusty strings wouldn't sound moderately bad? (Some people just like to be disagreeable, apparently.) Thumpe P.S. The "obviously" above is also proven, because when a string breaks on such a piano, and is replaced with a new one, the new one sounds markedly better! Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: Isaac OLEG <isaac...@gmail.com>;
To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>;
Subject: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...
Sent: Thu, May 30, 2013 7:26:37 PM

Hello I do not have some brand or name but I asked that question at the IRCAM when I was working for them, and they provided me an extra thin product that dried and did not leave a messy stuff (catching dust) as does WD40. However they affirmed me it was the same kind of moisture barrier product. The strings could be lightly oile (I know some will cry !) knowing that dust will be glued on them then (even if "traces" of oil are used. Also what I have been told is that all oils degrade in time to a product that is really sticky. I do not agree that the corrosion have no effect on tone. The main problem is that it cannot be cleaned above and under, then if rusted strings are cleaned, only on the apparent part and only on the top, they sound even less good after that. Unfortunately , I suppose that once there is really rust, the metal surface is not polished anymore. We also have a very unfortunate situation due to the steel used today. Old strings produced with cast steel did not oxyde and corrode as the ones of today. sight...

Le jeudi 30 mai 2013 04:52:41 UTC+2, lcl...@yahoo.com a �crit :

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: lcl...@yahoo.com <lcl...@yahoo.com>;
To: joega...@earthlink.net <joega...@earthlink.net>;

Subject: RE: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...

Sent: Thu, May 30, 2013 10:37:34 PM

Fewer (or less pronounced) dissonant upper partials. A smoother, more "singing" tone. It's less than 100 years old (a bit) and not as well-made as a pre-American Piano Company (pre-1909) Knabe, to be sure! But while cheapening the overall construction ( I've not seen one of these without back-post separation) it still sounds amazingly rich and bold. (It seems that serious effort was still put into this part --- at least enough to get it out the showroom door and into the home of some family that muchly enjoyed it, I suspect.) Thumpe P.S. I hate to disappoint you, Joe, but you weren't one of the "Grumpkins" to which I was referring. I was referring to those who seem to relish snarkiness for snarkiness' sake, and ridiculing others without any true humor or constructive commentary. They must be very lonely people, and so I feel quite sorry for them.

Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

From: Joseph Garrett <joega...@earthlink.net>; To: pianotech <pian...@googlegroups.com>;

Subject: RE: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...

Sent: Thu, May 30, 2013 10:17:33 PM

Le jeudi 30 mai 2013 04:52:41 UTC+2, lcl...@yahoo.com a �rit :

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: lcl...@yahoo.com <lcl...@yahoo.com>;
To: lcl...@yahoo.com <lcl...@yahoo.com>; joega...@earthlink.net <joega...@earthlink.net>; pian...@googlegroups.com <pian...@googlegroups.com>;

Subject: RE: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...

Sent: Thu, May 30, 2013 10:38:14 PM

[Ron Nossaman]

On 5/30/2013 4:43 PM, lcl...@yahoo.com wrote:
> Thanks, Oleg! Of course we've all heard pianos with VERY rusty strings
> that sound terrible (and obviously on account of it) so why would anyone
> suggest that pianos with moderately rusty strings wouldn't sound
> moderately bad? (Some people just like to be disagreeable, apparently.)

The thing to do now is to finish the comparison. Clean the strings of a
half dozen unisons in one of those terrible sounding rusty stringed
pianos, and see if the cleaned strings sound enough better to have been
worth the trouble and expense. Do two of those unisons under the bass
strings.
Ron N

[Joseph Garrett]

Hmmm? I got 4 of these emails! Whatzatallabout?

Thanks, Oleg! Of course we've all heard pianos with VERY rusty strings that sound terrible (and obviously on account of it) so why would anyone suggest that pianos with moderately rusty strings wouldn't sound moderately bad? (Some people just like to be disagreeable, apparently.)

[Terry Farrell]

Ahhh, silly me - should have been obvious!

Terry Farrell

[Isaac OLEG]

I sometime use a sort of heavy ink rubber, mostly if the look is weird to me., For the tuning pins rust may not be good for your tuning tip, as is dust (in case no vacuum I tap them with a cloth and "move the problem) . I thought that rust is sort of viral process, it could, as metallurgy implies time related processes... Scotch brite types are ok to clean light corrosion, very soft qualities as 1000 or 1500 (Mirka brand)
I used benzene (which is may be what is used in lighters, but cannot be obtained usually today unless you are in a chemical speciality store).

I noticed how resistive to corrosion some older wire qualities where, before recycling times so not so far from now. An East German upright from the 80's refuse to rust while being 50 meters from the Atlantic in an unheated house in Normandy, other samples with old pianos, A 220 grand Seiler 15 years old looked as if it had 60 years, strings wise, horrible harsh tone on a very recent piano due o rust.
I have read that the purity of the steel would go along with corrosion resistance, that some "electrical" effect between metal particules could be in cause. Not knowing enough about steel to sy more I would appreciate any comment.
The wire could be also potected by adding a coat. My be simply the lead baths used in the process was adding something, (I doubt lead is yet used today) but the polioshing may tear it off...

Sometime I wonder if changing the plain strings is so much advantagous when the piano is in humid climate, then...

Roslau propose a corrosion treated quality, but no one seem to use or sell it anymore (if i am not wrong)

[Isaac OLEG]

Sorry for the typos, cell phones, no typing correction that would not change the meaning, in my case (Android)

[Michael Magness]

On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 11:02 PM, Isaac OLEG <isaac...@gmail.com> wrote:

Sorry for the typos, cell phones, no typing correction that would not change the meaning, in my case (Android)

Having read all of the above just reminded me that I have cleaned corroded strings, not rusty but "non-shiny" for the dealership I tune for.

The dentist bought a grand piano, where to place it, why infront of the open window which looked out on the shaded north facing yard! Within 2 weeks the strings began to look "dark"! I had some of the old Polita & spent an afternoon making them bright again, I also told them WHY they "darkened" in the first place & told them to close the window or move the piano.

 

I was never called back, I was OK with that, people who can't accept intelligent advice don't make good customers!

 

I also used the Travis tuning pin & coil cleaner, once again the dealer received a newpiano with some rust on some of the tuning pins( somebody sneezed at the factory)so I got the job of getting it off. I'll just say trying to remove the mess from the coil cleaner is harder than removing a little rust! Rust isn't a bad thing, is it?
Mike
--
  
I think we are a product of all our experiences.
Sanford I. Weill   

Michael Magness
Magness Piano Service
608-786-4404
www.IFixPianos.com
email mi...@ifixpianos.com

[B Hebert]

You can polish strings with a fine sponge sand block; use one with a beveled edge to get closer to crevices.  Steel wool will leave microscopic hairs on the strings that will buzz for years, but the green Scotchbrite pads are safe for polishing.  Isopropyl alcohol is not corrosive, nor is naptha or paint thinner, but natural oils (animal or vegetable) are acid.  A very thin coating of boiled linseed oil will shine up tuning pins and will dry but if it creeps into the pin block you might have trouble until it dries.  Stay away from oils or waxes on strings as the coatings don't work.  Grab your hammer hardening solution and saturate a small clean pad of cloth and wipe the strings after cleaning to rust inhibit them.  Avoid getting lacquer onto bearing points.  Qualsol also works.  The underside of the string will have less corrosion as it collects less dust and therefore less corrosive salts and acids.  Test one or a few strings and see if you can hear a difference, usually you can't.

Blaine Hebert

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

AHA! FINALLY, a concise, informative, intelligent-sounding and "Snark-Free" answer. THAT's what this forum is supposed to be for! (Thank you, Blaine!)

Thumpe Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: B Hebert <brhe...@verizon.net>;

To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>;
Subject: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...

Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 7:59:02 AM

[Patrick Draine]

Blaine,

While I agree with most of the points you have made, the notion of applying lacquer to strings as a rust preventative is a new one for me, and I am rather dubious about it. How long have you been doing this? Is this a technique you developed; if not, who else teaches this treatment? 

Patrick

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Which brings up another question: the mill oil that is on the music wire as we get it. Would it inhibit corrosion (being an oil) or encourage it (being an acid)? Maybe we should soak our coils of music wire in paint cans full of lacquer thinner prior to use? I don't do that now, but do wipe the black stuff off it when I'm stringing, with a nearby roll of paper towels.

Thumpe Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: B Hebert <brhe...@verizon.net>;
To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>;
Subject: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...
Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 7:59:02 AM

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: lcl...@yahoo.com <lcl...@yahoo.com>;
To: brhe...@verizon.net <brhe...@verizon.net>; pian...@googlegroups.com <pian...@googlegroups.com>;
Subject: RE: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...
Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 12:59:30 PM

[Ron Nossaman]

On 5/31/2013 7:59 AM, lcl...@yahoo.com wrote:
> Which brings up another question: the mill oil that is on the music wire
> as we get it. Would it inhibit corrosion (being an oil) or encourage it
> (being an acid)? Maybe we should soak our coils of music wire in paint
> cans full of lacquer thinner prior to use? I don't do that now, but do
> wipe the black stuff off it when I'm stringing, with a nearby roll of
> paper towels.

Buy Mapes IG wire, and you won't be grease coated at day's end. Clean,
and a higher tensile strength than Roslau.
Ron N

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Great! Thanks Ron! I actually HAVE bought the IG wire, and just have not used it, yet. (So wasn't sure of its slime factor.) Thumpe P.S. It is my understanding that most "mill grease" is in fact lard. (Blechhh!) As a 40 year spiritual vegetarian, something additionally gross, to me! (I "Purple Power" any structural metal I buy.)

Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: Ron Nossaman <rnos...@cox.net>;
To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...
Sent: Fri, May 31, 2013 2:59:53 PM

[Al Guecia/Allied PianoCraft]

Patrick, while I have not used lacquer to prevent rust, I have use it on wire strings to tone down false beats with good results and no adverse affect.

Al -

High Point, NC

[Douglas Gregg]

Here in "The South", rusty strings and pins are the norm. I've
hitherto simply cleaned the strings by rubbing with a gray or red
ScotchBrite(TM) pad, and then wiping with paper towels dampened with
naptha, but am wondering if something could be aded to the process
that:
A) Helps get the rust off
B) Leaves a thin film that is rust-inhibitive without killing the tone
C) Doesn't leave a weird odor in the piano

And as far as the pins go: I was going to order a "Travis Tuning Pin
and Coil Cleaner" kit from Schaff, but was told that a new
manufacturer would be supplying them " in a couple of weeks".
So I'm intending to try chucking a gun-cleaning brush in a cheap
drill, and going at them with that.

Comments appreciated!

Thumpe

The answer to A and B is Ballistol. The answer to C is a personal
opinion. I don't find Ballistol weird but it has a slight odor that
mostly disapears in a day or so.

Ballistol has been tested for use on guns since WWI-about 100 years.
It is derived from coal. It works well and does not attract dust or
dry out and get gummy-proven after 25 years. It also helps dissolve
the rust when you are using the Scotchbrite pads. The treatment will
prevent further rust for at least 20 years- proven if you read about
Ballistol tests. I have used it as the only lubricant in my kit for at
least 5 years and rarely have any call backs or complaints. I learned
about it from a rebuilder who had used it for more than 10 years. The
only exception is old Steinways with very serious verdigris. Mild
verdigris it will cure, severe, no, though it helps a lot.

Sure, some of you are going to scream and yell about all kinds of
issues that are not born out by the facts. Ballistol works and there
are no down sides in my opinion. It is the most useful item in my 35
lb case and I would not leave home without it.

FWIW, using lacquer thinner on wire will only remove any protective
oil on the wire. Further, isopropyl alcohol is not acid. Naptha is
not Benzine but there may be a few % Benzine in Naptha. None of the
aforementioned solvents will prevent rust. They will be gone in
minutes.

The idea of a thin coating of lacquer or shellac (Qualasol) on wire
is interesting and should work. I see no down side.

I have a lot of customers who are rightly concerned about rusted
strings. Many live next to the salt water. If left unchecked, the
rusted strings will likely break when the rust gets severe. I try to
control that rust before that happens. I hate restringing pianos.

Doug Gregg
Classic Piano Doc

[B Hebert]

Patric,

You should have a bottle of hammer hardening solution (usually 5:1 lacquer).  Try it!  If it negatively affects the sound don't do it again.  In a year or two see if the strings are better or worse.

This is a treatment museums and antique dealers have used for years.  Don't you lacquer pedals after polishing?

A museum would use a solution of Paraloid in acetone or lacquer thinner to protect metals.  There are different grades and qualities, (B-44 or B-48 are good for metals).  A 1% solution is useful for small voicing changes.

Blaine

[Isaac OLEG]

Hello, there are interesting points there.

Paraloid is a good resin.

But aceton is somewhat acid (up to what level ?) 

Ballistol is a very good oil, but it finally make a sort of soapish like product (after decades indeed)= I see a lot used on flanges to protect the centers, and it make repinning not very efficient and cloth gluing as well, after 30-40 years indeed.

It was suggested and widely employed for center as a last resort solution.

It is indeed non acid and last very long, but I am unsure it is so "special" being obtained from coal it is not so far from the petroleum based products (in my view)

IF the oil does not dry, I would not like to have it on the wire, but may be the fear is exaggerated, as if dispersion occur, the amount of oil that would "eventually" get to the pinblock would be infinitesimal.

But oil on the hammers and on the damper felts in any noticeable quantity is causing trouble and attract dirt (I know no ild that does not unfortunately)

I will explore that "paraloid" solution (can be used in most of the available solvents.) I have tried some to harden some hammer shanks by impregnation, with not so clear results (a change but not particularly interesting) It is used to reinforce old woods, hence my tests.

Best regards

[Joe Goss]

Hi Ever try Goose juice?
Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT
ima...@gmail.com
www.mothergoosetools.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas Gregg" <class...@gmail.com>
To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [ptech] Re: A very serious string cleaning question...

[B Hebert]

Issac,

Acetone is slightly acid in water, so don't put an acetone water solution on strings and you are fine.  As a solvent it is perfectly safe, we have been lacquering brass and polished metals for centuries, my trombone is over  40 years old and covered with a lacquer finish that was applied dissolved in acetone and it is fine.

Paraloid is only an acrylic plastic, you can crush clear acrylic, or crush and dissolve acrylic key tops for hardener.

Blaine Hebert

[Isaac OLEG]

Thank you, I do not undertand how water can modify the ph but you seem to know.

About brass parts I lacquer them with a specific lacquer sold by Rennet. Excellent flow, invisible once dry, and resist friction (pedals) there are solvents but not Nitro type.
The old "Zapon lack" was used on metal, simply cellulose in solvent (nitro style). It was known that brass tarnished under it many colleagues stopped lacquering brass because of that. But that Renner recipe is just perfect.

Your tip about strings will be tested ;)

Regards

[Douglas Gregg]

More about ballistol.

It does not get gummy-that is why it is so popular for fire arms. Nor
does it attract dust. It actually resists dust.

From Ballistol Company:

Q: Will Ballistol get gummy over time, like other lubricants?

A: Nope. Here’s an interesting story. In 1952, a bottle with
Ballistol, with the cap only loosely attached, was found in the attic
of a deceased German hunter. The purchase receipt was found proving
that the Ballistol had sitting for over 30 years. Yet, it still had
the consistency of freshly produced Ballistol.

Q: If Ballistol oil can be diluted with water, does that mean it will
promote corrosion?

A: No. Ballistol emulsifies in water. The resulting product will
displace H20 like WD40, and then leaves a thin, protective oil.
Ballistol is also mildly alkaline (pH between 8.5 and 9.5), so it
neutralizes mild acidic residues such as hand sweat or residues from
black powder (which are acidic).

Q: What’s Ballistol made from — it smells funny?

A: Ballistol is made from medical grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of
oleic acid, several alcohols, Benzyl Acetate and oil from vegetable
seeds. The smell comes from medicinal Anethole oil, which is derived
from the Anise plant. Ballistol is biodegradable and non-toxic. CLICK
HERE for the Material Data Safety Sheet

For more information on Ballistol, contact Ballistol USA, (800) 253
2460, (252) 261 0408 (fax).
Similar Posts:

[Douglas Gregg]

More about ballistol direct from the manufacturer: It is safe for wood!

Wood Care
When using normal gun oils to clean the metallic parts of your rifle
of gun you must take great care not to contaminate the wood stock or
you may cause damage to the high gloss varnish or polish that has been
applied. Wood Care Using Ballistol Wood Oil is not so as one of its
many uses is to protect and enhance either treated or untreated wood,
it can even be used on antique guns and of course furniture etc. On
untreated timber it will penetrate the wood and protect against the
growth of mildew and fungus, insect attack is also protected against.
Note: It is always wise to test a small area first to be sure.
On untreated timber Ballistol can be used even if it is wet and will
give protection against the further growth of mildew and fungus due to
it being mildly alkaline. Regular applications will be necessary.
An obvious use would be to maintain the deck of wooden boats along
with the inside cabin.
Wood Care.
From Ballistol UK

[paul bruesch]

How did the German hunter come to be deceased?

And more seriously, the bottle in this story was reportedly found in 1952 and a 1922 receipt for Ballistol was also found. In and of itself, this does not prove that the receipt was for the found bottle. 

Has the formula for Ballistol been tampered with at any point since the found bottle's purported 1922 manufacture?

Paul Bruesch

Stillwater, MN

[Douglas Gregg]

Even if you don't believe the authenticity of that bottle of Ballistol
being found and the age determined, the fact that it is recommended
for use on both wood and steel on antique guns is significant. Guys
with antique guns hold them in high regard and if the the metal
becomes gunky or the wood gets soft, they will not be pleased, and
Ballistol will not be around very long. Keep in mind that gun stocks
are very precisely milled to fit a gun and that is no small feat and
not readily repeated. No one wants to see their precious antique gun,
worth thousands of dollars, damaged but a product they use with trust.

By the way, Ballistol also recommends its product for the leather on
straps and holsters as well as shoes and it is fine for felt too for
keeping it pliable similar to the original lanolin. I can also attest
to those facts. I am sure there are plenty of those who would prefer
to use a product advertised in the PTG journal that has been around
for 20 years rather than that has been tested since WWI -100 years. It
is all a matter of advertising, it seems.

If you are still not convinced, just google Ballistol and whatever
issue you are concerned with. You will find many rave reviews. I have
not seen a bad one.

Doug Gregg